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Consistent Wolverine Vari-Grind angles

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I’m guessing that this idea isn’t new, but here’s my take on setting consistent Vari-Grind angles on a Wolverine jig.

Make a supply of right-angle stock to fit on/over the long V-arm. Once a desired grind angle is confirmed by way of the V-arm length setting, carefully measure the distance between V-arm socket and the locking base. Then cut a matching length of the right-angle stock and label it. Now, whenever you want that angle to sharpen a gouge with the Vari-Grind, just place the spacer on the V-arm, slide it towards the base and lock the arm. Now, cut and label a right-angle spacer for each of the Vari-Grind gouge angles you use. You’ll get consistent sharpening quickly, easily and inexpensively—every time.
 

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Joined
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I went a step further and made separate arms for different type of gouges, with adjustable stop collars and extra pockets to put secondary bevels on the heels as desired. Obviously don't use heel bevels on spindle gouges much.
View attachment 40424
That is a very cool idea, Maybe you need to sell them
 

Bill Boehme

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I’m guessing that this idea isn’t new, but here’s my take on setting consistent Vari-Grind angles on a Wolverine jig.

Make a supply of right-angle stock to fit on/over the long V-arm. Once a desired grind angle is confirmed by way of the V-arm length setting, carefully measure the distance between V-arm socket and the locking base. Then cut a matching length of the right-angle stock and label it. Now, whenever you want that angle to sharpen a gouge with the Vari-Grind, just place the spacer on the V-arm, slide it towards the base and lock the arm. Now, cut and label a right-angle spacer for each of the Vari-Grind gouge angles you use. You’ll get consistent sharpening quickly, easily and inexpensively—every time.

Edward, I've seen several different schemes for setting the V-arm, but I like your solution for its simplicity and ease of use.
 
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Thanks, but it was just a typical case of making something to do what I wanted, with what I had on hand, as simply as possible. This time it worked. Kind of improvisational engineering I guess.
 

Roger Wiegand

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Another hint-- I use a couple different angles on "vari" end of the Vari-grind, for my ~40/40 and Ellsworth gouges. To reset them consistently I just drilled a 1/8" hole through the rotating plates then use the butt end of a 1/8" drill pushed through both plates to align them before tightening the wing nut. Reproducibility is much better than trying to align the arm with the notches.
 
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One I saw on my old robo rest was some one put a zip tie on, and it was very snug. Lots of ways to do it. I guess a hose clamp could work, but if I used it, I would go for metal pieces like Edward did, and they would be on a string wouldn't be losing them in the shavings all the time...

robo hippy
 
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I like Edward's idea of using wooden molding rather than aluminum angle. It's much easier to cut, so my threshold for making different sizes would be lower. And Rodger's idea to get reproducible leg angles is another good one.

I came up with a different solution to the problem of setting the nose angle for gouge sharpening that's worked for me in my shop and when I take my tools to other shops/grinders. With the Varigrind system (original) the nose angle depends not only on the V pocket pull out, but also on the leg angle and how far the tool sticks out from the Varigrind. In addition the wheel diameter (think CBN vs. Friable) and the vertical distance from the bottom of the V pocket to the axel of the grinder are further geometric considerations. And last but not least, the distance between the pocket and the base will depend on whether the grinder sports the actual Wolverine and Varigrind products or one of the many knock offs. For most people working in their own shop everything above is fixed, except the first two considerations (pull out and leg angle). And many turners use only one leg angle setting leaving only the pull out as a variable. In that setting dropping a simple angle of wood or half round of PVC on the V pocket arm is an easy solution.

In my shop I have CBN wheels and grind toolsl with a 2" tool stick out. But my V pocket is from Ron Brown's Best and the grinder sits on a base from Woodturner's Wonders. Furthermore, I want to be retain the ability adjust the leg angle independently, and I'd like to be able to get the same grind when I take classes or go on "play dates". So to make my set up independent of some of those issues I made this gizmo out of 1/4" plywood:

SAM_3224.JPG SAM_3223.JPG SAM_3225.JPG

It's designed for 2" stick out, but could just as easily have been made for 1 3/4". To use it I set the desired nose angle at say 60 units. Then I place it in the Varigrind and set the leg angle I want to try (I use a piece of paper to zero in on the setting).

SAM_3222.JPG

Then I set the contraption on the wheel and adust the V arm pull out until the two dowels sit on the wheel with no gaps.

SAM_3226.JPGSAM_3227.JPG

Then I swap out the angle jig for the tool using a 2" stick out. It doesn't matter what brand of V pocket or base I'm using, or how high or low the grinder is mounted. The set up does assume an 8" wheel.

This was just a prototype. I think it would be easy to make from acrylic if you had a CNC laser, but I have been using this plywood model for a while now and it works well and is fairly reproducible.
 
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