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Deburring options!

Joined
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Windermere, British Columbia
I was looking for a tool for taking burrs off bowl gouges after sharpening. I saw some cbn ones for about $70.00. A little rich for my blood. Then when looking around found skate sharpening ones for a lot cheaper. Only found two szes. Anyone else find cheap options that work well?
 

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Been using this type for decades. The round edge for the inside, the square for the outside. The Arkansas stone is a nice final touch but a bit pricey.

1     stones - 1.jpg
 
I rarely remove the burr unless I just sharpened for the final cut on a wood that wants to tear out. I use the Trend double sided 300 and 600 grit. I also use a diamond cone shaped trend fish hook sharpening tool to hone the flute.
 
I have a few different ones, but use the regular rectangular ones most often, they are small fine handheld slip stones, here are a bunch to chose from.

The teardrop ones you show I have, and sometimes use for in the flute of gouges.
 

Kevin knows what works best!

I'm always taking off the burr on the flute side of gouges......with a cone shaped diamond hone. The cone shape works for all sizes of gouges.....from very small and narrow flutes, to very big ones!

-----odie-----
 
I was looking for a tool for taking burrs off bowl gouges after sharpening. I saw some cbn ones for about $70.00. A little rich for my blood. Then when looking around found skate sharpening ones for a lot cheaper. Only found two szes. Anyone else find cheap options that work well?
What you found looks good Glenn. I'm curious now and on my way to ask Google why a skate needs deburring, LLOL
 
I have Alan's diamond slip stone, but Glenn is asking for a cheap solution. I can't remember what I paid for Alan's, I do remember it wasn't cheap.
There's always the question of what compromises expensive. For me a tool I use 20 times a day when I'm turning and that seemingly lasts forever (like the diamond slipstone) would have to be really expensive to be expensive. The Sorby captured ring tools I bought used for $20, used once and then stored away, are expensive. The no-name wrench that I probably got for free that broke under stress resulting in an ER visit and stitches was really expensive.
 
I doubt you will find anything effective for less than the one linked above. I use this round one with a taper point which is not too pricy. pencil point
Huh... just looked at the mcmaster-carr link , noticed the round pencil point one, I have had one laying around for years, and always figured it for a strop/burnisher that came with a chef's knife I got somewhere around 30 - 35 years ago.. it has sat around ever since.. I'll have to take a closer look... I was always thinking I wanted to get a flute hone , but didn't want to spend the money... but suddenly recognized I may already have one! cool.
 
I bought mine direct from Alan for $88.00 when I hosted a demo by him in about 2010 and it was cheap at that price.
How is yours after 12 years? MIne still looking good. I have to keep it in a drawer at all times. The honing liquid and dust are not a good combination for it. When I chase threads I have to use it often I throw a rag over it.
 
I use a 600# diamond hone, quick and easy and the same grit as my fine grinder wheel. Why use anything finer, slower and more prone to wear for deburring the wire edge? If you want to hone both surfaces there may be an argument for finer abrasives but you will spend considerable time honing that ephemeral razor edge.
 
I bought mine direct from Alan for $88.00 when I hosted a demo by him in about 2010 and it was cheap at that price.
My wife bought one from Alan about the same time. I paid nothing.
We have “ our tools” and “her” tools but she lets me use the Lacer diamond hone.
 
How is yours after 12 years? MIne still looking good. I have to keep it in a drawer at all times. The honing liquid and dust are not a good combination for it. When I chase threads I have to use it often I throw a rag over it.
Mine still works good I use it most days that I turn especially to hone scrapers before burnishing a burr.
 
Well, some day I may make some specialty tools to hone the flutes of my gouges. The frugal woodturner solution would be to buy some MDF stock, probably 3/4 inch, turn profiles on the edges to match the gouges you want to hone, apply some Norton black 'polishing' stick stuff which can be picked up at most big box stores, which is about 800 or so grit to the wheels, and apply to a very slow speed motor. I do use the leather wheel on my Tormek when I want do do this. You can buy yellow and green 'polishing' compounds which are finer grit. I heard one woodworker who got scary sharp edges for his chisels and plane blades say that the red compound is equal to about 16,000 grit if you are persnickety. I have a set of carving chisels that I purchased that I need to put edges on and polish. I think Tormek type speeds would be best.... Oh no, now I will need another sharpening station.....

robo hippy
 
Do you remember where you got them? What about the price?

I must have missed this reply.

I do not remember where I got them, but the stock numbers can be searched. I broke one a while back and simply looked up the stock number and ordered one from whoever had it at the time.
The prices for the regular stones were in the $10.00 to $15.00 range. The hard Arkansas stone was $70.00 the last time I looked. While it's pricey, it can put a slick cutting edge on a tool that makes fine spindle detailing far more predictable.
 
Hi Glenn. Check out the EZE-LAP EZLS-BRC Shirt Pocket Diamond sharpener at Amazon.ca $8.66. I have something similar I bought years ago at Princess Auto that works fine on the inner surface of gouges. Has a groove to do fish hooks. I have an antique Arkansas stone I bought in the 1970s but I did not think they were hard enough for HSS?
 
I use paper wheels now but have owned and used a diamond hone for years, have no clue what I paid for it but if it was over 20 bucks when I bought it, I would not have...
 
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