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Do you recomend lubricating the lathe bed?

I use canning wax to lubricate the ways and tool rest. Picked it up at the grocery store and keep a chunk next to the lathe. Keeps everything moving silky smooth.

Jeff
 
Tom Lewis said:
Do you recomend lubricating the lathe bed? If so what kind of lubrication do you use?
Click to expand...

If you turn "green" bowls with high moisture content, it is recommended that your lathe bedways be lightly oiled once in a while.

For many years, I used a liquid silicone lubricant called Dynaglide, but I haven't seen that for some time. It may no longer be made. I went to wiping down the bedways with an oil soaked rag.....but this isn't the best solution, as dust will cling to it.....but it works when nothing else is available.

I recently purchased some lubricant offered by CSUSA called PG2000. I've used it several times now.....not enough to really give a good evaluation, but it seems not to attract airborne residues and your banjo and tailstock will slide over it well. It looks like it will do what it's advertised to do. Here's a link to PG2000:

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=456-2000

....odie
 
I don't. I prefer that the banjo and tailstock have maximum opportunity to stay where I put them. An occasional pass with steel wool or crocus cloth is sufficient to prevent significant degradation.

Joe
 
Turtle Wax paste wax when needed. I also apply the the bottom surfaces of the tail stock and banjo now and then. I have no problems with them not staying where I put them.
 
If I have been turning green wood over the ways (mostly I turn the headstock and use the outrigger) I will wipe dry and clean up with WD40 and steel wool if necessary.

Having once worked on a lathe that was difficult to get the banjo to lock in place, I would prefer one that was on the sticky side. But I agree that this can cause frustration, and is one of the things I would recommend anyone check out before buying a lathe.

I assume that Tom is having problems sliding the banjo. If this is the case I would suggest that the sliding surfaces need cleaning, or the mechanism is badly designed or not adjusted properly. Before resorting to wax I think I would strip the whole thing down, make sure ALL the surfaces of the ways, banjo and clamp have no casting defects, sharp corners, or gunk stuck to them.
 
I apply a little Briwax with some #0000 steel wool every once in a while. It helps protect the ways from just about everything, and helps heep the headstock, tailstock, and toolrest banjo sliding smoothly. It also keeps the lathe bed clean and rust-free.
I also do the same thing on the tops of my tablesaw, bandsaw, and drill press.
 
I use Minwax finish wax on everything, ts, jointer, planner, router table, spindle sander,bandsaw. wipe on a coat let sit 10 minutes wipe the haze, for a bout 12 years now and never had a problem with wood picking up the wax and or finishing a project . keeps woods from sticking , protects against moisture but wont pick up the dust...
 
A little paste wax goes a long way. Wax the ways of the lathe and the tool rest, also keep a chunk of wax handy to keep the tool rest slippery as you work.
 
I use WD-40 on a regular basis on my lathe. Steelwool when it needs it (after I turn wet wood). Yes it collects dust - but I keep a rag nearby for a quick wipe of the lathe bed just before I start turning. WD-40 is not really good for preventing rust over a long time. But if it is reapplyed on a regular basis - it works.
Hugh
 
Jake Debski said:
A little paste wax goes a long way. Wax the ways of the lathe and the tool rest, also keep a chunk of wax handy to keep the tool rest slippery as you work.
Click to expand...

Jake....

Paste wax on the tool rest?.....now there is an idea I'm going to try out. I've always wished my tools would slide on the tool rest like glass! Seems like wet shavings and dust always seems to get in the way of smooth sliding tools. I'm talking about the same kind of build-up you see inside the deep flutes of bowl gouges when doing aggressive cuts on wet bowls.....this stuff seems to get on the tool rest too.....and hangs up your tools. Maybe some paste wax on the surface of the tool rest is the answer to my prayers to the lathe Gods!

I do go over my tool rests once in a while with some fine paper. This does help to a degree, but not to the degree I'd like to see.

Thanks, I'll try that.

....otis of Cologne

BTW: When yo say "chunk" of wax, what kind of wax are you talking about.....paraffin?
 
Living in the very humid Gulf Coast area I have to wax every bare metal surface often. Table saw and lathe ways maybe once per week, others like jointer and band saw a little less often. I use Turtle Wax for cars or something similar. I figure wood paste wax is made for wood, and auto wax is intended for steel. Although I guess any wax would work it just makes sense to me to auto wax.

The only thing I lubricate is using an old chunky candle to rub down the tool rest on a regular basis, and sometimes use a piece of steel wool to clean it. The steel wool stays in the drawer next to the candle so I don't accidently use it on wood (to fine sand the first coat of finish).
 
I've used paraffin wax (canning wax) in a pinch but I don't like it very much as it doesn't liquify and therefore doesn't cover the surfaces very well, leaving some areas open to rust development. I have used WD40 but don't any longer. It tends to build up a sticky film after a while and that just compounds the problem. TreWax or Johnson's Paste Wax are my current favorites. I first clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner, blow it dry and give a coat of was. The TreWax has to be buffed within five minutes to obtain a proper finish but the Johnson's Paste was is more forgiving; albeit it doesn't protect as well as the Trewax.
 
odie said:
Jake....................................................................................

BTW: When yo say "chunk" of wax, what kind of wax are you talking about.....paraffin?
Click to expand...

Odie,

Being frugal, I save things. I once made a paste of Carnuba by shaving a chunk and dissolving it in turpentine. The experiment was a failure but I kept the goo. I had the goo some candle stubs, canning wax, and a bit of beeswax. On a lark I put all this in an old kettle half full of water and threw in some black walnut husks that I had, for color, and Outside on a hot plate heated the mix. The purpose of this was to protect some black iron do-dads my most significant other wanted to place in the garden as decoration. Any way this experiment worked fine and I was left with a 3/4"thick by about 8" dia. hunk of many waxes. It will last me for the rest of my life even though I use it often to lube tool rests and many other thing around the shop and yard, etc.
 
Thanks, Jake.....

I've got some car paste wax out in the garage. I think I'll give that a try. I've used it before to wax the table of my planer, and it seemed to do ok there.

....odie

As I sit here and ponder this for a moment, I thought that a tool rest with a teflon replaceable surface might be an idea that's never been tried before. When it wears, or gets any dings in it, just toss it out and install a new one! A teflon, or similar surface ought to allow your lathe tools to slide pretty easily. Anyone hear of such a thing?

odie ;)
 
Great Lubricant / Protectant

Boeshield T-9 developed by Boeing while relatively expensive does an outstanding job for both lubrication and protection of metal surfaces of all kinds. It is a combination of solvents, lubricants and waxes that you spray on and wipe off to a very thin non-sticky film. Check the woodworking magazines and it outperformed all other products hands down in an intense rust/corrosion testing process. I believe it was the only product to totally prevent rust even when tops coated with it were continuously drenched with mist and left underwater for a lengthy period.

Use it on all my machines and it works without fail. :) Do a google and I'm sure you'll find all the details as well as a myriad of woodworking supply sites stocking it.
BEA
 
odie said:
As I sit here and ponder this for a moment, I thought that a tool rest with a teflon replaceable surface might be an idea that's never been tried before. When it wears, or gets any dings in it, just toss it out and install a new one! A teflon, or similar surface ought to allow your lathe tools to slide pretty easily. Anyone hear of such a thing?

odie ;)
Click to expand...

Never thought of teflon but I did think about gluing some of that really slick plastic (can't think of the real names for it) they make to put on table saw fences and such. If you used the thin stuff cut it in maybe 1/2" or narrower strips you could use a contact type cement to glue it on the flat type of tool rests. When it got dinged up you could peel it off and glue on another piece. Never had tried it but it's one of those ideas I get when I am at work daydreaming about being in the shop.
 
Wood,
The material you're thinking of may be UHMWPE, ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene, typically a white plastic. It is extremely abrasion resistant, can be machined with light cuts, high speeds, and very sharp tools.

Considering that ordinary use can result in various nicks and abrasion to cast iron tool rests, it's hard to visualize that a plastic material would be successful. Perhaps a very thin layer (to minimize deflection under load) would work with rounded tools like gouges. Might be a bit difficult to glue it.
 
massage123 said:
Boeshield T-9 developed by Boeing while relatively expensive does an outstanding job for both lubrication and protection of metal surfaces of all kinds.
Click to expand...

I use that on my lathe and other surfaces in Hawaii and it works great. I also use it as Boeing intended, to protect circuitry and wire connections in tough environments (ocean environment with salt air) and it does an amazing job for that as well. Well worth it. I noticed my Honolulu Woodcraft carries it, and some electric shops also have it.

Dave
 
Texian said:
Wood,
The material you're thinking of may be UHMWPE, ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene, typically a white plastic. It is extremely abrasion resistant, can be machined with light cuts, high speeds, and very sharp tools.

Considering that ordinary use can result in various nicks and abrasion to cast iron tool rests, it's hard to visualize that a plastic material would be successful. Perhaps a very thin layer (to minimize deflection under load) would work with rounded tools like gouges. Might be a bit difficult to glue it.
Click to expand...

Richard- that's the stuff but I agree it probably would not work unless very thin, and to be honest lubricating a tool rest is not that big of deal. Just one of those idle ideas I guess. Gluing it did have me thinking, kind of like the old joke about if you an acid that would eat through anything what would you keep it in? Gluing something so slick that nothing sticks to it would make it tough for glue to work also.
 
At just slightly over $1 per ounce (http://www.theruststore.com/Boeshield-T-9-12-oz-Aerosol-P3C4.aspx) that Boeshield T-9 doesn't appear to be all that expensive. I'm going to give it a try in my shop. For those who haven't tried it, your local gun shop carries a product called "Break Free" that is an excellent lubricant that doesn't creep or get sticky over time like WD-40 has a reputation for doing (WD-40 can creep into a primer socket and ruin a carefully reloaded cartridge) which will ruin an otherwise promising hunting experience.
 
I started several years ago using a product called Firepower FP-10 on all my firearms and other metals such as knives that were in the weather. This product actually bonds to the metal and lubricates but does not just make the metal slick or have an "oil" to rub off onto your hands or clothes. I called and talked to the manufacturer about using it on my lathe bed and their chemist said absolutely that it would be great for protection, mild lubrication and would not interfere with the locking of headstock, tailstock, etc. I have used it ever since and love it on all my tool tops - table saw, band saw, lathe, etc.! You can find more info at http://www.mpc-home.com/products-military-fp10.php

I now buy the big size bottle with the spray head and use it for the shop, guns, and other metal items.
 
Wilford Bickel said:
I started several years ago using a product called Firepower FP-10 on all my firearms and other metals such as knives that were in the weather.
Click to expand...

Just to share a giggle with everyone. I used to be in Law Enforcement and spent a looooonnnng session at the Federal Law Enforcement Training Center in GA. We spent days and days on the range with old blued weapons. We shared the range with voracious sand gnats that would carry off anyone who wasn't well weighed down.

To protect ourselves from the sand gnats the range master recommended Avon Skin So Soft. He had us slather it on, and darned if it didn't work great, though Avon denied it for years. The good thing? My weapon didn't rust where my hands kept coating it with Skin So Soft. The bad? Our sexual orientation was highly suspect when we went into the local shrimper bars for a few beers smelling quite strongly like Avon Skin So Soft.

The lesson? Perhaps we should all slather our lathes with Avon products, and of course, avoid going to shrimper bars afterwards!

Have a terrific Presidents Day weekend everyone!

Dave
 
As a former rock climber we used Avon skin so soft for the same reason. It kept the bugs away but was so oily you had to chalk up your hands like crazy to be able to climb. Talk about feeling strange going into a bar try wearing bright colored lycra pants, tank tops and skin so soft. Good thing climbers are known for being tough.
 
To oil or not to oil, that is the question!

Woodturning amazes me. There are almost always a dozen ways to do anything, and several folks will tell you that their way is THE ONLY way. I've a Stubby 750, and I've waxed its bed (but the wax won't stay on), I've used oil (and it rubs off), and I've used that high-tech molecular penetrating stuff (works better than oil - somewhat). I've also just let it be. The 'let it be' approach can also let it rust unless you keep it clean, but it seems to be a lot cheaper.
 
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