I recently bought a drill chuck with a #2 MT base. My problem is that it won't stay seated. If I don't have the tailstock applying presure it works itself out. I've not had a similar problem with any of the drive centers that I use. The "shaft" is much longer than those on drive centers. I thought maybe it had some grease so I cleaned it with solvent but it didn't change anything. Did I just get a defective one?
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Drill chuck problem
- Thread starter gran
- Start date
A friend of mine had this problem yesterday with his engine lathe. There was a small buildup of grime at the inside end of the taper. As he did, you may need to clean out the inside of the morse taper in the tailstock. I've seen a cleaner for that purpose but can't find one online tonight. He used a round bottle brush and some solvent.
Brad
Brad
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If you retract the tailstock too far, it will automatically eject the arbor. If that is not the problem, then grind the flat tang off the end of the arbor.
Bill
Bill
The drill chuck is being mounted in headstock in this instance. Maybe it does just need a good cleaning
B
Brian Myers
Guest
You need to use a drawbar when mounting a drill chuck in the headstock otherwise it will spin out. A drawbar is a section of threaded rod that will pass through the spindle and screw into the backside of the drill chuck. On the other end of the rod is a knob or wingnut and a washer to tighten.
http://www.peterchild.co.uk/toolpics/drchm.jpg This assumes that you have a threaded hole in the backside of the MT.
http://www.peterchild.co.uk/toolpics/drchm.jpg This assumes that you have a threaded hole in the backside of the MT.
The threaded hole isn't part of the standard for Morse tapers.
If both the arbor and the socket are clean, you should be able to "wring" them together: press the arbor in while twisting it with respect to the socket. That should lock things up so you need a knockout bar to release. Do NOT hammer the arbor into the socket, or you may damage the headstock bearings.
Joe
If both the arbor and the socket are clean, you should be able to "wring" them together: press the arbor in while twisting it with respect to the socket. That should lock things up so you need a knockout bar to release. Do NOT hammer the arbor into the socket, or you may damage the headstock bearings.
Joe
I had an old delta that I used for years, my drill chuck with a M/T would often come out of the head stock unless I twisted it in real well, and then sometimes it would work loose. I also had a lot of vibration in that lathe. Now I have a powermatic, same dril chuck and no problems. This may or may not apply to your situation.
Al
Al
Gran if you are using any Morse Taper in the Headstock then you must apply a Force/Pressure against the Axis of the Taper to have it retain in the Spindle.
This is why you do not have a problem with a Spur Drive, or why you never have the problem with a Drill Press, as you are always applying a pressure effectively pushing the Morse Taper into the Spindle.
If you are using the Drill Chuck as a holder for Turning Small Items you can apply a force that will loosen and eject the Morse Taper.
You will only succeed if you use a Draw Bar,as already suggested by others, but not all Morse Tapers have a Drilled and Tapped End.
Of course if you have a Solid Spindle this is not an option, I overcame this situation by using a Morse Carrier in my Axminster Chuck, details on my web site in Hints n Tips.
Richard
http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk
This is why you do not have a problem with a Spur Drive, or why you never have the problem with a Drill Press, as you are always applying a pressure effectively pushing the Morse Taper into the Spindle.
If you are using the Drill Chuck as a holder for Turning Small Items you can apply a force that will loosen and eject the Morse Taper.
You will only succeed if you use a Draw Bar,as already suggested by others, but not all Morse Tapers have a Drilled and Tapped End.
Of course if you have a Solid Spindle this is not an option, I overcame this situation by using a Morse Carrier in my Axminster Chuck, details on my web site in Hints n Tips.
Richard
http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Occasionally you find a morse taper that doesn't work. I have one right now. It has to be seated much more firmly than my others to work properly. However that is in the tailstock. In the headstock you unless your using it for drilling it will almost always come loose unless you have a draw bar.
When you use one in a Mill/drill you have to press it in under great force to keep it from working loose during milling operations.
You can buy morse tapers that are tapped for a drawbar to fit most any chuck and taper. Check with Enco.
When you use one in a Mill/drill you have to press it in under great force to keep it from working loose during milling operations.
You can buy morse tapers that are tapped for a drawbar to fit most any chuck and taper. Check with Enco.
Having no idea what you doing with the drill chuck it is hard to say how to keep it in there. At one time I was using a drill chuck to make bottle stoppers, and it was always an adventure to say the least. I now use a 4-jaw that threads on, much easier and safer. I later found out (thanks to this forum) about using a drawbar, I had wondered why it had that threaded hole on the end of taper. 
If I am drilling on the lathe, and it seems I do that a lot, I put the drill chuck in the tailstock with the wood in a chuck on the headtock. I have to extend my tailstock on my Jet 1642 out at least one full inch to use the drill chuck because of the way the taper fits, and it is designed to do that so I can back off the tailstock to get the drill chuck out.
Didn't help much, did I? Still early in the day
If I am drilling on the lathe, and it seems I do that a lot, I put the drill chuck in the tailstock with the wood in a chuck on the headtock. I have to extend my tailstock on my Jet 1642 out at least one full inch to use the drill chuck because of the way the taper fits, and it is designed to do that so I can back off the tailstock to get the drill chuck out.
Didn't help much, did I? Still early in the day
I'm doing bottle stoppers. Seems like it may be a common problem. I'll see if I can find some threaded rod to fit and see if a draw bar will help
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited:
Check Tang
I have seen some tangs on morse tapers that are wider than the taper end. This is normally to fit into the slot in the spindle for the drift to knock it out. If your tang is too wide it may not let the taper seat fully. You could check with a flat edge to make sure it follows the taper.
I have seen some tangs on morse tapers that are wider than the taper end. This is normally to fit into the slot in the spindle for the drift to knock it out. If your tang is too wide it may not let the taper seat fully. You could check with a flat edge to make sure it follows the taper.
gran said:
Gran, make a wooden cone drilled to fit over you live center and keep the tailstock up until the last possible moment. Then make a draw bar when time allows.