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Drive Center Question

I use a Morse taper extender
Also called a x2 to #2 adapter.
it is a #2 socket on a #2 taper.

I use mine to seat a spur drive in open cavities to rough hollowforms.
Mine would fit inside the center hole of my Chuck but have never used it that way.
I have several drives like the big bite that I can lock in my Chuck jaws,

Packard has them as do craft supplies and oneway
F0A9C078-D406-4661-968E-30B117486F37.png
 
I use a Morse taper extender
Also called a x2 to #2 adapter.
it is a #2 socket on a #2 taper.

I use mine to seat a spur drive in open cavities to rough hollowforms.
Mine would fit inside the center hole of my Chuck but have never used it that way.
I have several drives like the big bite that I can lock in my Chuck jaws,

Packard has them as do craft supplies and oneway
View attachment 36417
These do not work with some of the Vicmarc chucks. The center hole in the chuck is not large enough to allow the extender to pass through deep enough to seat.
 
IMG_3846[1].JPG
Shop made. The one on the right clamps in the chuck jaws. I hardly ever use it. The one on the left is a clone of the Oneway Big Bite except I made it to fit my Vicmarc chucks. I have one for the 100 and 120 chucks and use it all the time. It's great!
 
I have 3. Dont know where I got the 2 prong and 4 prong drive centers bit I use a 1" copy of the steb center I got from Pennstateind. I havent checked and dont use my other small.drive centers in my chuck but I think they all stick out further than my jaws. As long as the enter has a shoulder bigger than the Morse taper it should work.
 
Hockenbery, what is your process for removing something that is seated in your morse taper extension? I have used my extension a few times and had a hell of a time removing the second taper from the extension. I have a slot on the side I insert a screwdriver for leverage, even drilled a hole in a bench to whack the screwdriver on but it's extremely difficult at best.
 
Hockenbery, what is your process for removing something that is seated in your morse taper extension? I have used my extension a few times and had a hell of a time removing the second taper from the extension. I have a slot on the side I insert a screwdriver for leverage, even drilled a hole in a bench to whack the screwdriver on but it's extremely difficult at best.
The slot on the side of the extended socket is for a drift (a drift is a tapered piece of steel about 1/4" thick and tapered from about 3/8" up to about 1"). to use the drift support the extender on non marring material like 2 x 4 then put the small end into the slot and wacke it with a hammer being careful that whatever you are removing does not end up on the floor.
 
Hockenbery, what is your process for removing something that is seated in your morse taper extension? I have used my extension a few times and had a hell of a time removing the second taper from the extension. I have a slot on the side I insert a screwdriver for leverage, even drilled a hole in a bench to whack the screwdriver on but it's extremely difficult at best.
What Don said. Drift pin& mallet
 
A drift pin only works if what you put in the morse taper is long enough to extend into the drift pin opening. I was using my morse taper extension one time with a drill bit that had a taper and it didn't extend all the way to the hole. I had to put vice grips on the drill bit and hit it with a mallet to pop the morse taper free.
 
The normal mores taper as used by the metal working machinists has a flat end that fits in the flat area near the drift slot thereby preventing the MT from spinning and providing the extension needed for the drift. The MT extensions are nothing new however they were designed for use in metal working machines and have only recently been marketed to wood turners. The lack of the flat end can be solved if the MT has a 3/8-16 female thread by screwing a bolt into the end, then cut the head off and grind flats to fit into the MT socket, then the drift should work.
 
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