Dry Pigment + GF Gel Topcoat

[John Tisdale]

Was looking around for a wipe-on finish for the inside of a large mistletoe-burl mesquite. Some of you may recall Planet Mesquite.
The interior is very visible with all the openings and I didn't have the option of swirling a little epoxy as I do on regular hollow-forms.
I had some Raw Umber and Burnt Sienna dry pigment that I use to color epoxy - I mixed a teeny bit into a half-pint of GF Topcoat Gel and, voila, it works.
I can't believe I'm the first to try dry pigment with Gel or epoxy - would love to hear from forum members that have tried and maybe use as a go-to finish.

 

[Dave Landers]

I've used all sorts of things to color epoxy - but I use it as filler not as a finish. I've used a lot of India ink (black fill is my go-to usually). Also used artist paint pigments (in the tubes), powdered aniline dyes, water color paint from the dollar store,

I have been looking for a good way to finish the interior of my hollow forms. I've tried a few things like shellac, danish oil, etc but it never seems to cure in any sort of reasonable time frame (smells bad for a long time). And I have had bad experiences with colored finishes seeping through to the outside. An epoxy-based finish sounds like maybe a solution worth trying. I'd be interested in what you normally use.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I commonly use oil solvent aniline dye in regular poly. Powder form, I dissolve in lacquer thinner and naptha and store in canning jars. I dont want the particulates in the finish, they gather in the wrong spots. For dry pigment you might also try mica powder - comes in all kinds of colors. It’s become my favorite with epoxy to fill holes/defects. Any artist’s oil paints will work with poly, gel or liquid - the gel is the same as liquid with I think silica added as the thickener. I use gel some, usually as the last coat or 2 after liquid poly if I want a little film build. Never tried pigment in it.

I also continue to experiment with different finishes for the inside of hf’s with small 1-1/4” or so holes. I’ve had shellac crack some spalted vessels when absorbed, so I’m wary of it now. Poly does better, doesn't seem to swell the wood fibers as much. The best way to deal with the smell seems to be by helping it cure out faster. I put pieces in a box with a light bulb and leave them for several days. Water based finishes work without as much smell, but have a tendency to collect in the bottom of the form and leave a thick film. Thinning them with water creates the same issue I have with shellac - swelling the fibers too much resulting in cracks.