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Easy Wood carbide tools

I have a couple that I sometimes use when hollowing especially hard wood. They are nicely made and do a reasonable job as a scraping tool. However, they aren't my favorite so they don't see much use. Being a scraper means that they don't cut very cleanly and the carbide tips don't last nearly as long as claimed. My opinion is that there are other carbide tools that are much better (Hunter is probably the best of the carbide tools). I prefer using HSS tools whenever possible.
 
They work for bowls. However a bowl gouge and spindle gouge will out perform them in speed, quality of curve, and the quality of surface. A skew and spindle gouge will out perform them on pens.

That’s said a #4 hunter is a valuable addition to the tool kit
John Lucas has some nice YouTube on their use.

The value of the easywood tools is that a person with no training can turn a sandable pen or sandable bowl.
The quality of the pen or the bowl never gets better after a bout the 2nd or 3rd.
Doing bowls with a gouge just about every one you ever do will be a bit better than the last.

There are also some folks with limited range of motion who are unable to use gouges but can use the carbides quite well. It all trade offs.
 
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Ahh thanks Al. I already use a spindle gouge and then finish with my skew on my pens. I was looking at them to do acrylic turning. I've seen where they cut away acrylic pretty good. That hunter #4 is a 1/2". I'm wondering if that might be too big for pens. I notice the #3 is more suitable for pens. Maybe I'll get a #3 and #4 so I can have one for pens and maybe use the #4 for some bowls.
 
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Since you already use a spindle gouge I would suggest the Hunter Hercules or Hunter Viceroy for turning bowls. Both are excellent for this purpose when used as a scraper but they also work well as bevel rubbing tools to clean up the cuts. Here is the Hercules video
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzrLN8SQ8ms&t=397s
Still looking for the Viceroy video.
If you really want a set of the flat carbide tools look at the Woodpecker Ultra shear. They come sharper and the shaft is better designed to work both as a scraper, and shear scraper or a bevel rubbing tool.
 
I bought a set of EWT's when I first started making bowls and are easy enough to use. However, I knew that I wanted to learn how to use the traditional tools and I have never looked back. I really enjoy the bowl gouge as well as skews and scrapers. You can't beat a good sharp bowl gouge IMHO.;)
 
I have yet to find an application where a scraping carbide insert out performs traditional tools. You just don't have to sharpen is the only point. I've also seen scraping carbide tools destroy acrylic pen blanks. The tool does not make turning pens a success, it's the turner. I have great success with a skew from start to finish on all kinds of pens blanks. That, is with the skew in a shearing cut, not bluntly presented to the blank as a scraper. I further find a scraper carbide insert takes increased skill to turn a fair curve. That use on a pen blank takes more abrasive to then contour the long tapers used in pens. I have a couple of scraper carbides, they hardly ever come out of the drawer.
 
Well, I do have a thing for scrapers, but don't have any of the carbide scrapers. Just too practical.... I have a thing against 'disposable' products. You can touch them up a bit, but seemingly never as good as new. Their popularity comes from being small sized scrapers which are easier for beginners to use. Most of the Hunter tools are used more in shear scraping and actually with bevel rubbing cuts. I also don't have any of them.

robo hippy
 
I have a little square carbide tool that I use regularly on bowl feet. But, that's it's only use. I don't have a philosophical problem with carbide tools, but haven't really used them since I became (somewhat) proficient with gouges.
 
The main reason carbide scrapers are so popular is there isn't a learning curve. You just stick them into the wood. You don't need a grinder or to learn to sharpen. It gets new turners who don't have access to a club an easy way to start turning. Hopefully we can educate them on the advantages of bevel rubbing tools later.
 
Bang On, John!!! As a rookie turner, "for 30 + years", I have learned to turn wood with many "masters" and that is what makes one a REAL WOODTURNER! I was given an expensive carbide scraper, when they first hit the market, and it still sits in the case it came in. Sharpening and using tools is what turning experience is all about and the educating that goes with it is the plus. And NO, I will never drive an electric car!!
 
I have the Easy finisher and use it for the inside of the bowls since it has a small head and strong steel bar. It helps keep the chatter down.

Only draw back is buying the replacement cutters. You can sharpen them on a stone, face down, but it only goes so far.
 
john lucas said:
Since you already use a spindle gouge I would suggest the Hunter Hercules or Hunter Viceroy for turning bowls. Both are excellent for this purpose when used as a scraper but they also work well as bevel rubbing tools to clean up the cuts. Here is the Hercules video
Still looking for the Viceroy video.
If you really want a set of the flat carbide tools look at the Woodpecker Ultra shear. They come sharper and the shaft is better designed to work both as a scraper, and shear scraper or a bevel rubbing tool.
Click to expand...
I appreciate the video John. Looks pretty cool. I'm not really looking for a carbide dedicated to bowl turning. I was initially looking at them for doing acrylic pens. Was just curious if they worked on bowls also. Looks like they do. As others have mentioned, I'm already learning more about using my bowl gouges along with sharpening, which sometimes is still not that great, but I think they would be helpful if one got in a pinch and didn't want to ruin a nice piece of wood.
 
For turning pens I like the Hunter Osprey. You can rough with it as a scraper. Then use it as a bevel rubbing tool to really clean it up. If it's off just a little you can shear scraper with it to really fine tune things. A good all around tool. Here is a video showing using it to turn pens as well as other applications.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FnFdDo0jxGU&t=561s
 
I started turning before carbide was a big deal. Then it seamed like carbide was the next best thing to sliced bread.
So I bought one. Every few months I get it out and then I realize why it was in the drawer. Nothing beats a a SHARP HSS gouge.
The key is a sharp tool and sharpen often..
Once you “learn” how to sharpen it makes turning so much better, easier, fun.
Not sure who said it but once you think you should sharpen your tool it’s too late. I use the Sorby sharpening system and it is easier repeatable..
 
Peter Kaup said:
I started turning before carbide was a big deal. Then it seamed like carbide was the next best thing to sliced bread.
So I bought one. Every few months I get it out and then I realize why it was in the drawer. Nothing beats a a SHARP HSS gouge.
The key is a sharp tool and sharpen often..
Once you “learn” how to sharpen it makes turning so much better, easier, fun.
Not sure who said it but once you think you should sharpen your tool it’s too late. I use the Sorby sharpening system and it is easier repeatable..
Click to expand...
Peter - did you use the grinder/jig method of sharpening before you bought the Sorby system? Your thoughts on how the Sorby system is better? Thanks
 
Just to add to the others' remarks, I'm a fairly new turner. Personally I find bowl gouges much more fun on a bowl, and my spindle gouge much more efficient hollowing an end grain box. But my wife (a beginner) and I do use a couple of EWT hollowers on small hollow forms like Christmas decorations. There is no learning curve: she got in through a 5/8" diameter hole on her first hollow ball. Every other time I've tried to use one, I quickly went back to a traditional gouge since the cut is simply cleaner.
 
Rob Fridenberg said:
Peter - did you use the grinder/jig method of sharpening before you bought the Sorby system? Your thoughts on how the Sorby system is better? Thanks
Click to expand...
I had then Oneway Wolverine system and was quite happy with it. BUT I did not have a CBN wheel.
However I moved across the country and sold a lot of my equipment. When I landed I bought the Sorby set up. Quite happy with it. I like the flat cutting surface vs. the concave. It is very easy to touch up my tools. And with the various belt grits I can achieve a
Very sharp edge.
 
Peter Kaup said:
I started turning before carbide was a big deal. Then it seamed like carbide was the next best thing to sliced bread.
So I bought one. Every few months I get it out and then I realize why it was in the drawer. Nothing beats a a SHARP HSS gouge.
The key is a sharp tool and sharpen often..
Once you “learn” how to sharpen it makes turning so much better, easier, fun.
Not sure who said it but once you think you should sharpen your tool it’s too late. I use the Sorby sharpening system and it is easier repeatable..
Click to expand...


I should add that I use Carbide (Mike Jackofsky’s tools) on my hollow forms
 
I used the carbide tools exclusively a couple of years ago when I started turning. I have since acquired some gouges and scrapers and use those as much as the carbide tools. I think that the round carbide Easy Wood tool, either the full or pro size with longer handles, work great for roughing out the inside of a bowl. They are fast and avoid catches. It takes a lot effort to get a really clean cut though for finishing. So, in answer to you question, they work great, but you would still want gouges or scrapers for finish cuts.

I also have a Hunter Tools Viceroy which I find is also great for finishing the inside of bowls but I think it would be a long haul to do rough cuts when hollowing out the bowl.

Just an aside...While the carbide insert tools are great for beginners because catches are almost non-existent, they also require finesse to get a decent cut.

A second aside . . .The round and radius carbide cutters can be sharpened if you have a Tormek with a gouge sharpening attachment, as well as a 600 grit diamond wheel for the Tormek. The gouge attachment comes with a mounting jig for these cutters. While I don't have a lot of experience with sharpening these, as I just got my diamond wheel, it appears to get them good as new; possibly a little better.
 
Well I'm still on the fence with these. I've heard where it takes an exceptionally sharp tool to turn acrylics. I know the carbides are capable of this but I'll have to just decide how many acrylic pens I want to do in the future to justify the cost of these. I like using my bowl gouges for what bowls I have done. I haven't done very well with any other tools on my bowls. I tried a scraper but it catches. The only other tool I've used successfully is my skew for doing tenons. I don't have plans for a lot of bowls at this time but hopefully I can do enough in the future to get better with my tools. Thanks for all the comments y'all!
 
Scrapers have their place. You have to learn to use them just like any other tool if you want good results. Turning Acrylics is easy with sharp HSS tools. You don't need carbides. Some acrylics to scrape better than they cut but I usually just use the wing of my bowl gouge kind of like shear scraping. For the most part when turning plastics I find that a good sharp tool used as a bevel rubbing tool and not forcing the cut cut you will get excellent results. If you push the cut at all it tends to chip and you can actually hear it. reduce the forward feed rate and you should be successful.
I have been teaching beginning classes with the Hunter Viceroy and Hercules. These are just 4 hour classes to introduce people to turning. There isn't enough time to teach them to guide the tool with the bevel and no time to learn sharpening. Everyone is successful with no catches and the shapes are good. I usually turn a fairly complex candleholder. It has beads and coves and we hollow the end a little so they get a chance to all the basic shapes and cuts. We do use a parting tool along with the Hunter tools but that's the only 2 tools.
 
I have a couple of the Hunter carbide tools.....and, they seldom see any use anymore. Why is that? Well, the answer is I've found a great advantage to regular ol' M2 steel. It wears out at just the right pace to have an ultra sharp edge at all times. Huh!......that doesn't make any sense, you say?

Here's the low-down on that.......learn to sharpen, and sharpen about 10x more often than you ever thought you might have to. When your freshly sharpened edge dulls at a faster rate, it's easy to get in the habit of sharpening after about 30 seconds of use. On the other hand, if your sharp edge dulls at a much slower pace, you tend to use it for much longer than you should have......and, the results of that will show up on your tooled surfaces that need more sanding than if you had been sharpening much, much more often.

Don't believe that?.........To tell you the truth, I wouldn't have either, if someone had told me that 35 years ago.....and what I know about that now is the result of "hind sight"......not something I've read somewhere, or somebody else told me. :eek:

Hey.......I've been there and done that, just like everyone else who is learning to turn. I was no different than the average newbie is now. There is an inherent human trait to do everything possible, AND to spend gobs of money......just to keep from sharpening tools, all while being fooled into thinking you are on the cutting edge of knowledge and technology! Hell, Daniel Boone could get a sharper edge on a blade, than most of the newbies of today, regardless of all that sophisticated knowledge and equipment he's accumulated! Once you cross that certain threshold of sharpening with ease to the whole process.....you'll look back and wonder what in the world you were thinking in the first place! :D

-----odie-----
 
I have never turned any of the acrylics. I do know that if you are turning talc, or the soapstone, you need carbide, and make sure the dust collector is up and running non stop...

robo hippy
 
I just used my Hunter #5 phoenix to finish hollowing a box. I would not be without that tool. It leaves a spectacular finish on box interiors. In fact I hollowed the box with the mini Hercules. I went almost the full depth of that tool and still didn't get chatter. I was getting some up and down movement because my handle on that tool was too short and light. Would have been much better to use the Viceroy or large Hercules but I wanted to test this tool for hollowing. I know that's a little off topic but maybe not totally. That #5 has been used a lot and still cuts clean. I finish hollowed all of the angels I just made with that tool. The Hunter tools stay sharp a long time.
 
Peter Kaup said:
I had then Oneway Wolverine system and was quite happy with it. BUT I did not have a CBN wheel.
However I moved across the country and sold a lot of my equipment. When I landed I bought the Sorby set up. Quite happy with it. I like the flat cutting surface vs. the concave. It is very easy to touch up my tools. And with the various belt grits I can achieve a
Very sharp edge.
Click to expand...
You know the more I've been looking at sharpening jigs and systems, I'm steering more towards this Sorby system also. It's a little high dollar but it seems to be more of a no nonsense sharpening system that would be great for beginners. I'm getting halfway decent with my sharpening but I know my tools would be much happier with better profiled edges. So are do you have a Pro & Con list you'd like to share? Thanks!
 
As a newb starting to gear up without any legacy tools/investment, I'm leaning towards the Sorby too. I recently purchased a Rikon 1/2 hp grinder which I will return based on further study.

By the time you factor in the grinder, Wolverine system (base and vari-grind jig) and some decent wheels (CBN is even more $$$) you are getting close to the Sorby cost. After looking at many reviews/videos on it everyone seems to appreciate the build quality, ease/quickness of use, resulting in more frequent sharpening. I will pull the trigger on it soon.
 
You can screw up a grind with the Sorby just as fast as any other method. :) Learning to sharpen is more about learning to see the shape of the edge, knowing what the edge should look like, the then grinding to get that shape. doesn't really matter what method you use. Here is my video on sharpening problems. Hopefully it will explain what I'm trying to say.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9G16ylEZHQ&t=123s
 
I have watched your video before John. Thanks for sharing it again. I wish I could sharpen like you do. Great job. Right now I have a 6" grinder and a mediocre little jig. I've decided that I need to invest in some sort of sharpening system for sure. What I have is not going to cut it. I've looked at the OneWay and I would have to modify remounting my grinder and then buying the associated jigs will eventually cost me a bit too. Working on my last bowl, I lost it on a catch with my bowl gouge. I had sharpened it just before gouging but right now I don't have quite the talent to put an edge like you can. Lol If I keep lathing for years to come, I'm sure I will get to a point where I should be able to sharpen anything. Right now I'm not at that point and need help before I lose interest in bowls because I'm not able to sharpen good enough to hollow safely. I also realize that nothing is full-proof!. But I have a lot of common sense, mechanical abilities and the ability to recognize when I need a boost with something. Lol
 
One additional thought about sharpening systems to consider when shopping for your first: what do the people in your area/club use? If everybody in your town uses the Tormek and you buy the One Way, who's going to help you learn to use it? And get the most out of it? Glenn Lucas taught himself to sharpen on all available systems, so he could understand his student's problems and help them sharpen better (Now that's dedication), but few others have significant experience with anything but their own method.
 
Bobby,

Bowl turning really comes down to muscle memory and repetition of body and hand motion with the tools. All it takes is one little slip of concentration and presenting the tool at the wrong angle for the grain you are cutting away. I would compare it to riding a bicycle with no hands, it takes a while to learn the mechanics of riding the bicycle and then mastering the balance while letting the bicycle carry you down the road. There are a number of blind woodturners around the world and they all work off of muscle memory and picturing the tool position in their mind. Once you have turned a number of bowls you will develop a natural sense of tool position which will make the process much easier and less stressful knowing a tool catch is less likely.
 
You can turn a bowl with a dull tool.as.long as you handle the gouge correctly. Granted it's more fun and easier with a sharp tool.
I guess Glen and I have something in common. I have a grinder with both CBN and aluminum oxide. I have a strip sander and I e been playing with different grits to learn more. I also have a Tormek so playing with that as well. For me so far the CBN is the best overall. I'm still playing.
I love the Robo Rest. I use it for many of my tools. The Oneway system with the Wolverine jig is for my other tools.
 
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Dean Center said:
One additional thought about sharpening systems to consider when shopping for your first: what do the people in your area/club use? If everybody in your town uses the Tormek and you buy the One Way, who's going to help you learn to use it? And get the most out of it? Glenn Lucas taught himself to sharpen on all available systems, so he could understand his student's problems and help them sharpen better (Now that's dedication), but few others have significant experience with anything but their own method.
Click to expand...
When I went to the local club meeting last month I noticed they had the OneWay system setup there. The meeting place is one of the members personal shop. As for learning, I may make a couple mistakes but I will eventually conquer anything I buy. Lol Thanks Dean!
 
john lucas said:
You can turn a bowl with a dull tool.as.long as you handle the gouge correctly. Granted it's more fun and easier with a sharp tool.
I guess Glen and I have something in common. I have a grinder with both CBN and aluminum oxide. I have a strip sander and I e been playing with different grits to learn more. I also have a Tormek so playing with that as well. For me so far the CBN is the best overall. I'm still playing.
I love the Robo Rest. I use it for many of my tools. The Oneway system with the Wolverine jig is for my other tools.
Click to expand...
I've seen the CBN wheels. They are pretty pricey also. Right now, as a new woodturner, I'm gonna try to figure out what the right one for me is. Right now I'm just looking at simplicity, space and accessories. I know everyone has their own methods and I'm sure some have even changed methods over the years. I predict that I will fall into that category also, but for now I will just try to find a system that will eventually lead me to taking control of my own sharpening. I appreciate all the help and comments y'all. It's nice to have a place filled with such knowledge and experience that a person can ask a question and get informative answers even if they aren't the same. Lol
 
I don't think vibration has been mentioned yet, but it is very important that the grinder run essentially vibration free or else you won't be able to get a good sharp edge. Most grinders as they come out of the box need a tune up to run smoothly. The six inch grinders seem to be worse probably because of their light weight and lower cost. The main causes of vibration are:
  • Stamped bevel washers that don't run true. You can buy machined washers that do a much better job.
  • Cheap plastic bushings that don't do an adequate job of centering the hole in the wheel. Metal bushings should be used.
  • Cheap wheels that may not be perfectly round and/or not have centered holes. A diamond dresser usually can address this problem, but not the handheld type. It needs to be the type that is connected to the tool rest.
The grinder is tuned up when you can run the grinder with a glass of wine on the tool rest. I don't know why it has to be wine, but beer, water, cheap wine in a box, or Coke Zero just won't hack it.
 
Bill Boehme said:
I don't think vibration has been mentioned yet, but it is very important that the grinder run essentially vibration free or else you won't be able to get a good sharp edge. Most grinders as they come out of the box need a tune up to run smoothly. The six inch grinders seem to be worse probably because of their light weight and lower cost. The main causes of vibration are:
  • Stamped bevel washers that don't run true. You can buy machined washers that do a much better job.
  • Cheap plastic bushings that don't do an adequate job of centering the hole in the wheel. Metal bushings should be used.
  • Cheap wheels that may not be perfectly round and/or not have centered holes. A diamond dresser usually can address this problem, but not the handheld type. It needs to be the type that is connected to the tool rest.
The grinder is tuned up when you can run the grinder with a glass of wine on the tool rest. I don't know why it has to be wine, but beer, water, cheap wine in a box, or Coke Zero just won't hack it.
Click to expand...
My little 6" delta actually runs pretty smooth. My older one used to vibrate all my tools off the work bench. Lol I'm running 2 Norton wheels. One is an 80 grit blue wheel and the other is a 150 grit white. I also dressed the edges to a little round.
 
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