I’m thinking of trying iron acetate on a walnut tool handle. Good or bad idea?
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Ebonized tool handle
- Thread starter Webb Willmott
- Start date
Go for it. Just let it dry good. The color doesn't pop though unless you cover it with shellac or something else.
I did this a year or 2 ago on a homemade laptop computer stand made from white oak. One coat and it went dark, dark, deep midnight blue. Blue. Well, blue/black. And sort of muddy looking. And then after allowing a few days to thoroughly dry, I applied Tried & True varnish oil over it and it went to black-black, the blue went away, and the muddy look was gone. Now, it wasn't coal black, or ebony black, but I called it black.
For filtering the mix I used one of those single serving plastic mug-top coffee filter dohickies from the grocery store. Worked great. I think I filtered it twice. I just found an article that said not to screw a lid on your jar as it's brewing the steel wool, to let airborne gasses escape. Maybe cover it with a thin rag, or set the lid on top without screwing it down, or the article suggested a rubber glove (nitrile, for example) with some razor slits through it and stretch it over the top of the jar.
Have fun with it, try it on different woods. The more the tannins, the better the result.
For filtering the mix I used one of those single serving plastic mug-top coffee filter dohickies from the grocery store. Worked great. I think I filtered it twice. I just found an article that said not to screw a lid on your jar as it's brewing the steel wool, to let airborne gasses escape. Maybe cover it with a thin rag, or set the lid on top without screwing it down, or the article suggested a rubber glove (nitrile, for example) with some razor slits through it and stretch it over the top of the jar.
Have fun with it, try it on different woods. The more the tannins, the better the result.
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It shouldn’t affect the function of the handle
Is it worth the effort?
Is it worth the effort?
Of course it’s worth the effort. Having different types of handles messes with my OCD and keeps me on the edge of sanity.
The truth is I made some iron acetate solution, need a handle, and want to try it out before I use it on something I spent a lot more time on.
The truth is I made some iron acetate solution, need a handle, and want to try it out before I use it on something I spent a lot more time on.
Dave Landers
Beta Tester
It's worth trying, a sorta fun chemistry experiment.
I have had really good results on walnut. But I also had duds with almost no color change.
I gave up on the steel wool & vinegar treatment as the results were not predictable. It's fun to play with, but if you're aiming for a specific coloration, it's too hit-and-miss for me.
I have had really good results on walnut. But I also had duds with almost no color change.
I gave up on the steel wool & vinegar treatment as the results were not predictable. It's fun to play with, but if you're aiming for a specific coloration, it's too hit-and-miss for me.
I like the steel wool/vinegar solution when I am shooting for a grey, weathered look. Otherwise, black dye is my go-to. Fiebing's black leather dye is very popular, but I like Behlen's even better
I use Black Spirit stain, it’s far more reliable and you can use it on anything. Having said that a blowtorch is very effective and adds texture at the same time.
This is an Axe handle I did a while back.
This is an Axe handle I did a while back.
Bill, the Bahco, have you re-worked the head for more hand clearance when using it choked up? I like it, the head and handle. Looks like it could be a nice carving axe.
Hi Steve, yes, I saw a YouTube video about modifying a standard Bahco Axe. Some have complained about the quality of the steel but mine seems pretty good. It’s shaving sharp now and yes, I thought it would be good for carving.
It used to look like this:
I have the Stihl labeled version of that axe. I'm guessing Bahco makes it for Stihl. I think I paid about $35, new. I've only modified it by using a card scraper to remove the slick finish from the handle (then oiled it), and then, being right-handed, I reworked the left side bevel a bit, flattening it and decreasing the angle a little to make it better suited for carving purposes. It's a good axe, steel-wise, that with some work can be a great small axe for carving or camping. A real sheath would be nice, vs. the gratuitous little stretch rubber thing that came over the edge. Maybe Amazon has a leather sheath for them.
One of the things I found quite curious is that some Axes can, according to owners, be sharpened with a file. An ordinary file wouldn’t touch my Bahco, I had to shape some of it near the cutting edge with grind stones. It was then sharpened on a belt grinder.
Wow, none of the 4 small axes (a.k.a. hatchets) I own would be affected by a file. I'm getting off topic, but those would be 2 from Gransfors Bruk, one from Julia Kalthoff, and the Stihl. I have no need nor reason for another, but Jason Lonon has a few small ones that really appeal to me, especially for the octagonal handle profiles.
Yes apologies to the OP for the thread drift.
I too like the octagonal handles I’ve seen on some Axes. I think some Japanese hammers have a similar shape sometimes?
I too like the octagonal handles I’ve seen on some Axes. I think some Japanese hammers have a similar shape sometimes?