• July 2025 Turning Challenge: Turn a Multi-axis Weed Pot! (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to James Seyfried for "NE Red Oak II" being selected as Turning of the Week for July 21, 2025 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Electric (or mechanized) chainsaw sharpening recommendations

Joined
Jul 18, 2018
Messages
1,272
Likes
2,667
Location
Baltimore, MD
Website
loujacobswoodturning.com
I’ve been considering trying an electric, or hand-cranked sharpener. I get acceptable results with hand sharpening, but it’s a bit of a challenge to keep the teeth on both sides of the bar evenly filed unless I take the chain off the saw. I’d love to hear folks’ experiences going this route. I’ve looked into cheaper dremel-type sharpeners with diamond burrs in them, and slightly more upscale Granberg sharpeners. Doing a search through the archives I found a listing on the for sale notices a few years old where Emiliano bought a used Granberg sharpener listed. Emiliano, if you’re reading this, are you still using it? Happy with it? Anyone else have thoughts about what works well and lasts over time? Do any of these also address the rakers, or do they only sharpen the cutting teeth?
 
I bought a Harbor Freight sharpener at an estate sale. Have only used it so far on my Sthil but was amazed at the result and do not see why it would not work on electric. NOTE you do have to remove the chain to place it in the jig but sharpening went faster than I thought it would.
 
Project Farm had a nice review on chain sharpeners. I've used a Granberg shapening jig in the past, but get better, faster results with the Stihl 2 in 1 that Charles mentioned. One thing that Granberg emphasizes is to file all the teeth to the length of the shortest one after resharpening. With their jig, this is straightforward. If you use a power device, I would do the same. The 2 in 1 files down the guides at the same time as the teeth, and this also seems to be very helpful. If whatever method you use doesn't include this, I'd strongly recommend getting and using one of those simple guide filing jigs and a small hand file.
 
I've got the Oregon "Professional" sharpener ($200 on Amazon) as well, it seems to work just fine. I have 4-5 chains, so I just wait until I'm down to one and then do them all at once. It goes quite quickly once you set it up. My saw stays much sharper than it ever did before with hand sharpening. I have to admit I'm not at all fussy about the niceties of sharpening with respect to complete uniformity etc. That said it gets the logs cut up-- but I only use a chain saw a dozen or two times a year for a half hour at a time. I'm cutting turning blanks, not firewood.
 
Sthil has a hand sharping device that will work with most chains. It's not electric but it's pretty fast and easy to use.

I have the Sthil hand sharpener with the 4MM file for the teeth and the flat file for the rakers on the Makita electric saw that I have and it works good. I also have a Chinese grinder that is probably the same as the branded ones, but I find that the frame is not rigid enough so varying amounts of pressure on the grinder will result in too much or too little grinding plus the too much grind can heat the tooth enough to soften the steel.
 
I have been very happy with the harbor freight version. I sharpen a lot of chains and it has held up well. I'd like to find some better quality stones to use on it. It's very difficult to duplicate the cutting of a fresh chain out of the box but I can get close
 
I have been using HF on my sthil chains. I have adjusted the height that the grinder moves and was able to grind the rakers. Like Roger, I am not a purest on the results and if cuts better than before I mangle it, its good. I did not like the somewhat sloppy movement and added brass shim stock to make a tighter fit on the up and down movement.
 
For most of my chains I use one of these...

chainsaw sharpener.jpg

For full square chisel chain I modified one of these...

 
I've had four chainsaws over the last 30 years. I started with a Stihl 025 16"as a homeowner saw for cutting firewood and then added a more powerful Stihl 261 18" a few years later to part out log stumps to make wood bowls on my lathe. I recently bought a Husqvarna 572 XP 28" on a great sale with almost twice the power for cutting up fallen 30" logs. It is so much better than the Stihl 18" at this task. I added little Makita 16" cordless model because it was much quieter than the gas saws for light use in my backyard. I liked the cordless battery operated Makita so much that I sold the Stihl 16" that was still in great shape for $50 less than I paid for it many years before. I chose the Makita brand because I had many other Makita cordless tools with lots of interchangeable batteries and wanted to stay on the same battery platform... and I'm very happy with its performance. It's good to rotate extra batteries through the chargers and keep them at the ready, to keep cutting when the first pair go dead.

Upon buying each new saw, I added 2 extra chains to swap over when needed. When each chain became dull I struggled to hand sharpen them with a file (and a metal guide) that used up a lot of time. I could never get repeatable results that I was happy with. After several years of unsatisfying results, I started taking my chains to a local shop and paid to get them sharpened... with varying results. After 20 years I got smart and bought a chop saw style Oregon electric sharpener on Amazon with a hand operated vice and 3 pink stone wheels. It has variable tooth angles and offset adjustments for cutting depth and link advancement on the built in vice. The 3 wheels are a flat edged one for kissing the depth rakers, a small diameter one for small chains and large diameter one for the large chains. The Oregon is similar to several other brands but I chose it because it had the best ratings, best customer service and was the cheapest of all brands at the time of purchase. I bolted the sharpener down to a 12' x 12" plywood 3/4" base and then clamped the plywood to my workbench. It became quick to setup, sit in a chair with a face shield on and whip through the collection of chains with amazing results. After a while I switched the setup over to my little hydraulic scissor lift table so I could adjust its height to be comfortable while sitting in a chair with the cutting action at eye level.

I would use up all the chains until dull, either 16", 18" or 28" and then sharpen all of them in the same length one after the other. I discovered a fast way to minimize the overall sharpening time. I setup the 16" chain angle for the right side teeth (sharpening every other one) and rotated the chain around. Then swapped to the next 16" chain sharpening only the right side teeth, then the 3rd chain repeating only the right side teeth. Then I changed the vice angle over for the left side teeth and repeated through all the 16" chains, then 18" and then 28" chains. This was way faster than changing the vice angle twice for each chain size. It was a pleasure to use and the sparks weren't much of a concern. I had to learn to minimize the wheel time in each gullet without blueing the teeth and losing its temper. The most time consuming part was switching the vice angles between chain sizes. The Oregon sharpener came with printed instructions and diagrams that were easy to follow. Competitors chains all had sharpening specs online that I printed out as needed. After seeing the newer CBN sharpening wheels being demonstrated for these chain sharpeners with zero sparks and virtually no tooth blueing at the AAW Symposium in Kentucky this year, I bought one of each size at a nice discount at the WoodTurners Wonders booth from the owner Ken Rizza. These CBN wheels are a big upgrade from the OEM pink stone wheels. Now my nextdoor neighbor wants me to sharpen all his chains too.
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2023-12-13 at 9.47.37 AM.png
    Screen Shot 2023-12-13 at 9.47.37 AM.png
    613.6 KB · Views: 13
I clamp my chainsaw bar in a vice and use a Dremel tool with the correct diameter (1/8, 3/16, 1/4) abrasive cylinder. Works for me.
 
I clamp my chainsaw bar in a vice and use a Dremel tool with the correct diameter (1/8, 3/16, 1/4) abrasive cylinder. Works for me.
Years ago, I read a suggestion to clamp the bar when sharpening, and there's even a spike based vise loggers can hammer into a tree stump in the field. I've found stabilizing the bar really improves the on-bar sharpening process, as does putting a finger on the back side of the chain to stabilize it as you sharpen with a file. (always with gloves on)
 
I do hand sharpen, and Dean's comment about gloves is spot on. Most of the time I wear them, and if I am not wearing them, then I have a glove draped over the chain to protect my pushing fingers. I have sliced them more than once, which is not a good way to test the sharpness of your chain.... I have also learned to be more careful on the push stroke, and don't push very hard. Just enough to remove metal, but not so hard that you can 'slip' and slice....

robo hippy
 
Back
Top