End grain turning NIP

[cypher]

I am sure this has come up before on this forum but I was un-able to find the info I need doing a search. NIP is nice for the knots it contains and looks great when turned end-grain. My question may be very remedial so I apologize in advance. I have attempted to turn end grain before and it always is a failure for one reason, the pith. i can not get it stable enough to not destroy the piece when completed. So here is my dumb question . . . when turners who turn NIP turn it end-grain, they keeping the pith in. This is correct? or are they turned end grain out of a half log to avoid the pith? I have seen pieces with knots 360 degrees. I can only assume to do this the pith has to be there. I do not want to start a long thread on how to stabilize/dry woods because this topic has been beat to death. I want to make sure i am correct in my assumption that the pith is still in the piece and will require special to stabilize.

I know Ron Kent does many NIP pieces and I have checked out his site and I am going to attempt his liquid dishwasher soap drying method. I have never turned NIP and want to make sure if I spend the money to get it to me here in CA that I know how to handle it correctly.

FYI NIP = Norfolk Island Pine for those who may not know.

 

[Sky]

Here in South Florida Norfolk Island Pine is one of the local favorites to turn. Most is done end grain with the pith in the bottom near center. Several people turn it side grain usually cutting the log in half through the pith, eliminating it from the piece. One or two hits with thin C/A glue before the final cuts solidifies the pith so it can be cut cleanly. NIP out sells all other woods here 8 to 1.

 

[MichaelMouse]

You're using the wood to help you dry with great success. Since the entire log contracts inward toward center, you remove the center, and there's not much to pull against. Get a nice curve all the way down to the bottom to let the wood move into the air, and if you don't do the slow and repeated oil soaks, make sure you set the piece up on stickers to allow the bottom to dry evenly from both sides. Since the end grain dries so much faster than the rest, it'll normally have pulled in a bit in to make room for the slower outside so you won't get radial checks. Same technique used on goblets and vases. I'd also undercut the base to keep the radial checks from forming around a flat disk.