End grain veneers as enhancements to turnings

[Don Wattenhofer]

The idea was to use end grain slices in turnings so I figured out how to make them and inlay into a turning. The pictures are of the first two bowls that I have done plus an inlay.The initial inlays are about 1/16th inch thick with tapered edge and I pressed and glued them into a flat recess. I would like to know what everyone thinks of the idea and any other possible uses.

 

[hockenbery]

I like the pattern from the “book match”
It’s an intriguing technique that you can take in some different directions.
I’d like to see what else you come up with.

I like the feature in the bottom of the segmented bowl a lot.

In the bottom of the regular bowl it looks forced and out of place. But that is just me. Which do you like better?

You also have the issue of putting a flat disc with limited flexibility, compression, stretch on curvedmsurfaces or making flats where they may not fit.

Jewelry pendants, platter rims, box tops all have surfaces that a near flat.
I have seen end graininlay on box tops but not one that was bookmatched.

Certainly an interesting approach

 

[Tim Connell]

Love the look on the segmented bowl, but really looks out of place on the other.

It is a great idea and really adds visual interest on the seg. bowl. I think there might be a combination that would work on a regular bowl, but the interruption of the heavy grain pattern by book matched end grain looks odd to me.

If you have a very bland looking wood with little color/grain variation, a contrasting end grain medallion might work well.

 

[John Jordan]

Gianfranco Angelino is masterful at end grain veneers-everything he does for that matter. You can find examples with a Google search.

John

 

[Mark Wollschlager]

Bill Tilson was knows for veneer flowers and turnings.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

John thanks for the reference to Gianfranco Angelino looking at his work is humbling to say the least. As far as the other comments about the white oak bowl I totally agree but I had to try it to see if I would like it. I do plan to try the box lid idea.

 

[John Jordan]

John thanks for the reference to Gianfranco Angelino looking at his work is humbling to say the least. As far as the other comments about the white oak bowl I totally agree but I had to try it to see if I would like it. I do plan to try the box lid idea.

I'm amazed he isn't better known. He did all of the "Turned Wood" shows at del Mano gallery from the late 80's, but never came to any of the conferences. He's one of the few guys I""ve never met, but I sure like what he does. He does some two-ply pieces that curl and uncurl with the humidity.

John

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

Here are end grain inlays done on a CNC. With these box lids it's a thick inlay that was domed after inlaying. End grain cuts cleaner than flat grain although both can be done.



Here's a computer rendering of the male inlay piece shape and the female pocket. Inside and outside corners are kept sharp by using a 60 degree vee router bit.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

I tried the idea on the lids of some segmented cherry hollow forms (sorry but I just can't seam to use the term BOX) for your critique. Oh darn my new 24MP camera makes the files to big I will have to get back to you on that.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

I tried the idea on the lids of some segmented cherry hollow forms (sorry but I just can't seam to use the term BOX) for your critique. Oh darn my new 24MP camera makes the files to big I will have to get back to you on that.

I retook the pics at 12MP

 

[Bill Boehme]

With your nice new camera you really need to get some imaging processing software so that you can resize, compress, and do other basic editing. Almost all cameras that I know of include a disk or two that includes free image editing software. Or, you could download GIMP which is very capable freeware, but for me it seems to be a little awkward to navigate. There is also Adobe Photoshop Elements which is often bundled with a new camera. I would rate Photoshop Elements as the best option by far for free or low cost software. Or, you could go whole hog and get Photoshop Professional.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

With your nice new camera you really need to get some imaging processing software so that you can resize, compress, and do other basic editing. Almost all cameras that I know of include a disk or two that includes free image editing software. Or, you could download GIMP which is very capable freeware, but for me it seems to be a little awkward to navigate. There is also Adobe Photoshop Elements which is often bundled with a new camera. I would rate Photoshop Elements as the best option by far for free or low cost software. Or, you could go whole hog and get Photoshop Professional.

I did download "gimp" but I apparently didn't spend enough time on it and never figured out how to use it to resize etc. The camera dose have settings for 24, 12, and 6 MP and I found that pics made on the 12MP setting loaded onto the forum. I finished another example of a bowl of segmented buckthorn and mesquite with cherry end grain veneers .

 

[Bill Boehme]

I did download "gimp" but I apparently didn't spend enough time on it and never figured out how to use it to resize etc.

I've been using Photoshop for over twenty years so I feel very comfortable with the user interface. I really haven't mastered GIMP because the UI doesn't seem logical to me. I can make it do what I want most of the time, but it's a struggle and bad words are sometimes uttered in the process.

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

I use Adobe PhotoDeluxe Home Edition 4.0. It came with my first digital camera years ago and still beats anything else I've found for ease of use. Not all the features of Photoshop, just a basically simple and easy to use program.

Googling on it, it appears there a numerous downloads of it available. Adobe doesn't support it any more, but it's so popular others are offering the downloads.