Epoxy - Bad Batch Alert

[Ed_McDonnell]

I recently lost a project that was almost finished after using some epoxy that did not harden (purchased 9/12/06).

I contacted Henkel Consumer Adhesives regarding the failure of their Loctite Professional Epoxy (5 min) which is sold at Home Depot and many other places. I was informed that batches of the epoxy that they recently shipped are defective. They think the problem is limited to the 4oz bottles of 5 min epoxy, but they are not sure at this point. They are still trying to figure out what the problem is and how widespread it is.

When I called, they immediately acknowledged the problem and offered me a choice of refund or replacement. While a nice gesture, it doesn't make up for the loss of a project in the final stages. They could offer no suggestions for removing the uncured epoxy other than cutting out any affected parts.

If you are planning on using Loctite Epoxy it would be very wise to mix a test batch to insure it hardens. If you have any problems, contact Henkel for a refund.

Ed

 

[Wilford Bickel]

Did they say if the syringes with 2 barrels that shoot out equal amounts were involved? Thanks for the heads up!!

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

Wilford - They THINK it might be just the 4oz bottles, but they aren't sure at this point. Test the epoxy before using it to be safe.


Ed

 

[Frank Alvarez]

When epoxy goes bad!!!

I know with marine epoxy if it doesn't "kick" we can get it to harden with a heat lamp or just being in the sun, the UV will do the trick. You may also be able to use the same solvents they use to remove fiberglass from application tools( marine and auto body repair supply places should be able to advise you on what to use) to remove it from the wood if it doesn't harden with these efforts, don't know what it will do to the wood though.
Hope this is of some help.
Frank Alvarez

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

Frank - I already tried UV / heat and it didn't work. I'm going to try some different solvents tonight, but I kind of doubt I'll be able to get it all out.

I was filling a couple of voids, so I don't need a super strong bond. I just want the surface to harden so I can sand and finish. I may try and dig out as much as I can and then cap it with some new GOOD epoxy. Henkel discouraged this approach because they said the uncured epoxy would interfere with the curing of any epoxy I put over it. Since I'm really only using the epoxy for cosmetic purposes rather than structural strength it may not be an issue. I've got nothing to lose at this point anyway.

Ed

 

[Mark Mandell]

Frank - I already tried UV / heat and it didn't work. I'm going to try some different solvents tonight, but I kind of doubt I'll be able to get it all out.

I was filling a couple of voids, so I don't need a super strong bond. I just want the surface to harden so I can sand and finish. I may try and dig out as much as I can and then cap it with some new GOOD epoxy. Henkel discouraged this approach because they said the uncured epoxy would interfere with the curing of any epoxy I put over it. Since I'm really only using the epoxy for cosmetic purposes rather than structural strength it may not be an issue. I've got nothing to lose at this point anyway.

Ed

Acetone has always dissolved uncured expoxy that I've had.

 

[Sean Troy]

If it's in the voids, try using a small exacto knife or tip of a utility knife to remove as much as you can then clean up the rest with Acetone that Mark mentioned.

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

I tried acetone and mek. Neither had much of an effect. The stuff is sort of semi-cured. It's not hard, but it is pretty resistant to solvents at this point. It would probably dissolve if I soaked the piece, but I didn't think that would be a real good solution.

I used a combination of screwdrivers, awls, nails and pins and managed to get a lot of the stuff out. I've refilled with a stainable wood putty and will wait and see what happens and where I need to go next.

Thanks for all the ideas.

Ed

 

[Brian Hahn]

To remove the uncured epoxy, try denatured alcohol or isopropyl alcohol (get the 91% stuff, it's in the first-aid section near the standard 70% stuff.) It has been my experience that either alcohol works a lot better than most other solvents for removing partially cured epoxy. The 91% isopropyl alcohol seems to work the best and it is handy to keep on hand for first-aid uses.

 

[woodwish]

I think used some of the same epoxy on some pens a week ago. These pens had already been victim of old epoxy that never cured. The BOW was too nice to junk so I used some muscle to force the tubes out and then a lot of time with acetone to clean the tubes and the blanks. Bought some new stuff and it won't harden either, Locktite 5 mn in 4 oz. from Home Depot. Now it's time to start over again, think this time it is time to try some Gorilla Glue.

 

[GuyO]

Be careful about the single use packaging as well

I've also noticed a disturbing trend on the syringe packaging on the epoxy -- .25 oz of product in a package that used to hold 4 oz of product.. These are being sold at HD (BORG - Big Orange Retail Giant) and some of the other retailers -- These small quantity packages have an opaque wrapper around the barrels of the syringes that obscures the amount of product. Surprisingly enough, the 4 oz packages don't have the extra wrapper and let the buyer see the amount of product. The price difference between .25 oz and 4 oz is about $1.00 --

.25 oz is about enough epoxy to glue up a pen blank...

 

[pyrocasto]

I've had the exact opposite problem with their 1 minute epoxy with the auto mixer tips. Squirt some out yet only waiting about 15 seconds to see if it's good. Start squeezing it for where you need it and what do ya know, the tip is cured and locked up too much to use anymore.

 

[Sean Troy]

I've never had a problem with System Three 5 min. Epoxy.