Epoxy Resin

[Jim Bellinghieri]

I'm thinking of using some of my exotic cutoffs by casting them in epoxy resin. I have seen videos but have no clue Has anyone done this? what is a good brand of epoxy to use?

 

[Richard Coers]

I too have little knowledge and will be curious if epoxy is even the right word. I thought you either used polyester resin or urethane resin. To me, epoxy means an adhesive.

 

[Ed Davidson]

If you're wanting to stabilize and color wood (not fill voids), then Cactus Juice is the name brand to consider first. If you're wanting to fill voids in wood, or cast "junk" wood with colorful plastic, then "casting" epoxy resin is the way to go. 15-20 years ago, polyester resin was the in-thing, but lost favor with most casters as epoxy resins became available in relatively low costs bulk packaging. There are literally 100's of different epoxy resin brands to choose from (search "epoxy resin" on Amazon.com), and 1,000's of YouTube videos that show in detail how to use the stuff. Be prepared, however, to invest several hundred dollars and a lot of time to get started properly.

 

[Brian Gustin]

My own experience: Epoxy/Resin casting, there's way too much of a mess when you go to turn it , if you are going for bigger than pens, bottle stoppers, etc. - all those ribbons of plastic tangle up in your lathe, you have to stop and clean up (and that stuff likes to cling like those little packing peanuts beads do, you'll spend more time cleaning the stuff off yourself than you spend turning it!) That aside, if you want to get a nice clean casting without bubbles and voids, you would also need to invest in a pressure pot , air compressor for it, you'll want to know your ambient temperatures in your work area (Many resins will only cure properly within a narrow temperature range, They don't like really cold or really hot weather, so you may need A/C in the shop, etc) Plus the cost of resin itself ($200 a gallon which might be enough to cast a 12 inch bowl blank? No Thank You.)

So, I for one have sworn off even bothering with epoxy , resin, (and even acrylic blanks which I was given a couple, tried turning it and hated it, not just the ribbons but the odor and dust don't agree with me either) At most I might invest in a vacuum pot (assuming that is what is used for cactus juice) and only for really exceptional pieces that I want to keep for myself or a gift, etc. (I'd never be able to sell the resulting work for anywhere near what it would cost me in materials)

Granted, I have used epoxy in small amounts (hobby kits for $39.95 or some such) for small void fills, repairs, patches, etc, and that really isn't as problem (and don't need pressure pots, etc) But otherwise, Epoxy and I do not mix.

 

[Chris Lawrence]

I prefer urethane resin over epoxy resin. In large volumes epoxy resin can be hard on tools. Urethane resin turns real easy. For urethane resin I like alumilite clear and clear slow but you need a pressure pot and the wood has to be bone dry. I bake my wood in an oven for a couple hours before casting. If there is any moisture in the wood it will bubble and foam up even in a pressure pot. The plus side is this type resin hardens quick. The regular clear is 7 minutes work time and the clear slow is 12 minutes of work time. With epoxy resin unless you buy deep pour you need to do it in no more then 1/4 inch layers poured before the previous layer hardens. You can check it with a infrared thermometer and once it starts to cool down the next layer can be poured. You do not need a pressure pot for epoxy resin but you need to babysit it for a little bit with a torch or heat gun to pop bubbles.

 

[Erik Christensen]

I have made many, many dozen resin bowls using all kinds of wood and whatever slow cast resin I can get cheap (50-60 min pot life). Never worried about moisture as most stuff in the shop tests out < 12% and never had a problem so I stopped checking. Turns easy but is messy and have had best luck using carbide tools. Vacuum chamber to remove air in voids then pressure pot to collapse any bubbles remaining. Fun way to use scraps and add some color - here are some of what I am talking about -

 

[Tom Draffen]

I have made many, many dozen resin bowls using all kinds of wood and whatever slow cast resin I can get cheap (50-60 min pot life). Never worried about moisture as most stuff in the shop tests out < 12% and never had a problem so I stopped checking. Turns easy but is messy and have had best luck using carbide tools. Vacuum chamber to remove air in voids then pressure pot to collapse any bubbles remaining. Fun way to use scraps and add some color - here are some of what I am talking about -
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View attachment 51739

This is what I'm thinking of doing. I have a ton of cutoffs green my flat wood working that I'd love to do something other than burn/chuck away.

 

[Charles Cadenhead]

For epoxy resin I use the amazing clear Alumilite brand. I've had great success with it.

 

[Tim Dunbar]

ill second the Alumilite amazing clear ive been using it for years great stuff and easy to work with

 

[Sid Bright]

I like alumilite as well but I also use Epodex cristal clear which has a bubble inhibiter built in. Have had good sucess with both

epodex seems to be my cost faveriot

 

[Charles Cadenhead]

epodex seems to be my cost faveriot

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to try some.

 

[Steven Landau]

I prefer urethane resin over epoxy resin. In large volumes epoxy resin can be hard on tools. Urethane resin turns real easy. For urethane resin I like alumilite clear and clear slow but you need a pressure pot and the wood has to be bone dry. I bake my wood in an oven for a couple hours before casting. If there is any moisture in the wood it will bubble and foam up even in a pressure pot. The plus side is this type resin hardens quick. The regular clear is 7 minutes work time and the clear slow is 12 minutes of work time. With epoxy resin unless you buy deep pour you need to do it in no more then 1/4 inch layers poured before the previous layer hardens. You can check it with an infrared thermometer and once it starts to cool down the next layer can be poured. You do not need a pressure pot for epoxy resin but you need to babysit it for a little bit with a torch or heat gun to pop bubbles.

I agree. alumilite clear is the way to go