Exterior utility bowl finishes

[Bill T Tucker]

Putting the final touches on a large cherry salad bowl with a couple of coats of walnut oil. Just wondering if 2 or 3 additional coats of Minwax Antique Oil on the exterior would stand up over time to washing...maybe keep it looking better for longer. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
bill

 

[Doug Freeman]

My thought is ….if the wood is saturated well with walnut oil, stop there. It may need refreshed occasionally depending on washing etc. I find heating the bowl, either outside in the summer or inside with a heated box when cool, cures the walnut oil in a few days.

Never tested it, but my suspicion is the other oil will not be any better than properly applied and cured walnut oil.

 

[Gabe Latner]

I believe that the Antique Oil is just BLO + varnish. Water resistant, but not water proof.
I have a cutting board that was only ever finished with walnut oil, gets used heavily, and washed 3-4 times a day. It needs to be rubbed down with a little oil every month or to when the surface starts to look dry. Outside of a salad bowl should be just fine. Maybe a wax product over the oil to help with water resistance?

 

[Dean Center]

I agree. The Antique Oil won't add much that I would consider desirable. With the walnut oil, you're done. When you're done, quit.

 

[Richard Coers]

I use 2 very thin coats of Minwax Quick Dry Polyurethane put on with a pad of cotton cloth. I sand it with 320 and then 0000 steel wool. Usually a customer doesn't know the difference between my finish and some kind of oil finish. But they do tell me how soft and smooth it feels. Once you put the walnut oil on, you'll have to wait months before you put any kind of film finish on top of it.

 

[Dave Landers]

My usual finish for utility bowls is walnut oil. I often will buff the outside of a bowl to get a nice smooth feel, but I don't buff the inside. Folks like the feel when they pick it up. I want my bowls used, and I feel that leaving the inside less shiny might encourage that. If the bowl is used, it will eventually develop its own patina. That smooth outside might not last, but will also form its own use-patina. So it's all good: good first impression, useful bowl.
I have business cards with bowl care info on the back - I tell them (basically) to not worry about it unless they like the look of a "renewed" finish, in which case use walnut oil. I know that walnut oil from the grocery store won't harden as good as the Mahoney's I use, but if they're re-oiling it occasionally anyway, it doesn't matter.

 

[Marc Banka]

I finish with doctor’s walnut oil/wax bowl finish. The wax is set, or hardened/buffed while spinning to give a nice luster. This is inside and out.
I furnish and also explain to my buyers that owing one of these is not unlike owning cast iron cookware. That after use it should be cleaned minimally, dried and oiled. It’s been reported to me that repeated oiling has deepened the glow, that it’s more beautiful than when they bought it. It only does that help the bowl, but also creates a special relationship with their costly purchase.

I avoid film finishes, except maybe for purely decorative pieces. If it’s a regularly used piece, the film will wear through, and the bowl will go through an awkward period till everything evens out.

Dave, I used to suggest walnut oil to customers till two pieces came back to me. The grocery store walnut oil had hardened on the surface, mostly. Actually it was a sticky mess! I can now attest to the strength of a walnut oil finish. I scrubbed with mineral spirits and steel wool-scrub, rinse, repeat. Fortunately, I was able to remount to the lathe with a vacuum chuck to rebuff and rewax.
It might have been that particular brand, or maybe our climate that added to the problem. Not sure.

 

[Bill T Tucker]

Thanks everyone...will stick with just the oil. It'll be a Nashville "song bowl" so will post pics when finished.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

I like to poly finish. I will let the walnut oil dry and poly over that.

 

[Richard Shelby]

For tableware bowls I use one coat of linseed oil followed by paraffin wax- the jelly-jar sealing type. Melt the wax in on the lathe, then touch up any unsealed areas with more wax and a small torch. Test to see that water "beads" all over. It will usually buff to a "matte" finish.

 

[Randy Anderson]

Like others - walnut oil is my default. I have started using the ACKS paste wax on some pieces, not all. Adds a bit of sheen and nice feel to vases and display pieces but likely not much long term difference for a regular use salad bowl. I tried some walrus oil wood wax made for cutting boards for a while and still use it sometimes. Net, a little buffed on natural wax over the walnut oil enhances the initial look and feel plus I notice Richard Raffan does it on his pieces so must be worth doing. I've not had good luck with surface finishes like lacquer over walnut oil but I know some do.