How do I attach a 2" x 8" round to a fake faceplate?
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Fake faceplate
- Thread starter Christa Schlegel
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Whats a fake faceplate? If you mean perhaps a waste block held in a 4-jaw chuck , you can use paper glue joints, you could just hot melt glue the work piece to the faceplate (Yes it holds extremely well) to name a couple options, but probably be helpful if you were to describe what you mean by fake faceplate?
You win, I'm stumped. If it's not a real faceplate, can you still call it a faceplate?
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I will assume you mean a waste block, as @Brian Gustin said, and that you will place the waste block in a chuck. I would recommend using a conventional glue joint (no paper) with wood glue (Titebond) because it is a stronger joint. Hot glue is also not as strong. This does not present a problem for cutting it off when you finish the bottom.
If it is not a "waste" block, but is intended to be a part of the final piece, it should have a strong, clean joint.
Hot glue and paper joints are very useful if you want to be able to "cleave" them apart, leaving the original surfaces intact. However, you still face having to remove the glue residue and paper.
Further, paper joints' "performance" is also dependent on the type and thickness of the paper you use.
If it is not a "waste" block, but is intended to be a part of the final piece, it should have a strong, clean joint.
Hot glue and paper joints are very useful if you want to be able to "cleave" them apart, leaving the original surfaces intact. However, you still face having to remove the glue residue and paper.
Further, paper joints' "performance" is also dependent on the type and thickness of the paper you use.
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There are many attachment options. What do you want to make?
I would like to make a curved platter
Yes, I did mean a wasteblock.
odie
TOTW Team
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You need to prepare both surfaces flat for a good bond. I use Titebond glue for this. This only works well with dry seasoned, or kiln dried wasteblocks and turning stock.
I've also made my own glue press using a large screw for compression.....but, regular C clamps will work.
-o-
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- Joined
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Once you have some experience you can use a chuck to great advantage.
Mount the blank on a worm screw. Turn the underside of the platter and a tenon 1/4” or less tall
Use the tenon mount in the chuck and turn the top side of the plater.
This is a much used method and wastes little wood
Instead of a tenon you could us a recess of as little as 1/8" deep and thereby have the foot completed.
I have never used hot melt or paper joints as I have no faith in them at all, this perhaps is due to the type of wood I routinely turn. For shallow vessels, platters and the like I use a screw chuck with a large backing plate to support the blank turning the outside first then making the foot to match a jaw set I have. This allows me to turn the inside and finish the piece in two moves.
Take this for the price you're sending me as I've only been turning for about two years. I have a couple of pieces of oak about 2 -2 1/2" thick that I carved out a hex shape on the back for a 1-8 nut that I epoxied in. I stick my piece up against it with tailstock pressure and then put a bead of hot glue intermittently around it. Never had one come loose yet, but it's easy to part off with a narrow parting tool and you don't waste much of the oak.