Finish for Lilac

[Jamie Straw]

Have a small-diameter lilac piece that'll make several wine stoppers, but not sure of best finish. Playing around with the one below (so-so design/shape, I know) to see how it turns, and then put some Minwax Antique Oil on it. Seems pretty bland, would like it to be more interesting, but don't want to overwhelm the mauvish color in a couple areas, and the little concentric eyes where the branches were. Can try Watco natural, but would have to buy it (only have walnut in the cupboard). Any suggestions. I love the wood -- very dense, turns nicely and feels great when sanded to 600.

 

[stu senator]

CA finish

I don't know about Lilac but I have been using CA adhesive, thin to finish my stoppers. I have used it on a number of light color woods and it does not cover or color the wood.

I use about 2 coats, applied on the lathe, see the pen makers for technique. Use paper towels to cover the lathe bed and to apply and wear gloves and eye cover.

Do not use any finish that is soluble in alcohol.

The pictures show copper beech, a piece of before wood and 3 stoppers.



Stu

 

[Odie]

Have a small-diameter lilac piece that'll make several wine stoppers, but not sure of best finish. Playing around with the one below (so-so design/shape, I know) to see how it turns, and then put some Minwax Antique Oil on it. Seems pretty bland, would like it to be more interesting, but don't want to overwhelm the mauvish color in a couple areas, and the little concentric eyes where the branches were. Can try Watco natural, but would have to buy it (only have walnut in the cupboard). Any suggestions. I love the wood -- very dense, turns nicely and feels great when sanded to 600.

View attachment 8961

Jamie....you can try the Danish oil natural, but you must understand that very white wood will "yellow" somewhat. Sometimes, this is a disappointment to me, but nevertheless, it does look good, even though the "whiteness" is lost.

Regardless, I think you might want some of the DO natural on your shelf, anyway....... It's such a great looking finish on a variety of different species of wood.

ko

 

[Bill Boehme]

Walnut oil is the lightest oil that I am aware of. I think that you would need an oil to make the grain pop. On a bottle stopper, you could use a CA finish over the oil. I would wait a couple weeks after oiling before applying the CA although I have also applied CA immediately following oiling with no known problem on pens.

 

[Jamie Straw]

Jamie....you can try the Danish oil natural, but you must understand that very white wood will "yellow" somewhat. Sometimes, this is a disappointment to me, but nevertheless, it does look good, even though the "whiteness" is lost.

Regardless, I think you might want some of the DO natural on your shelf, anyway....... It's such a great looking finish on a variety of different species of wood.

ko

Yep, it seems I do need to get some. This month's budget, strained mightily by the pellet stove that's running right now in the shop, is reserved for Christmas-present-related items, so just have to decide if the DO natural qualifies. Have to ask Bill, now, about walnut oil I have some in a kitchen cabinet, wonder if it'll do double-duty in the shop. Thanks for the tip about yellowing.

 

[Jamie Straw]

Walnut oil is the lightest oil that I am aware of. I think that you would need an oil to make the grain pop. On a bottle stopper, you could use a CA finish over the oil. I would wait a couple weeks after oiling before applying the CA although I have also applied CA immediately following oiling with no known problem on pens.

Bill, which walnut oil product do you prefer? I have some ordinary cooking walnut oil in the kitchen, but it can't possibly be that easy.

 

[hockenbery]

Bill, which walnut oil product do you prefer? I have some ordinary cooking walnut oil in the kitchen, but it can't possibly be that easy.

I have used the grocery store walnut oil for years.
We use it in kids classes too makes a nice finish for gavels, napkin rings, and boxes.

Walnut oil will dry sometimes overnight but usually it takes 2-3 days.

Al

 

[Jamie Straw]

I have used the grocery store walnut oil for years.
We use it in kids classes too makes a nice finish for gavels, napkin rings, and boxes.

Walnut oil will dry sometimes overnight but usually it takes 2-3 days.

Al

Thanks for the tip about drying time, Al. I'm thinking to try out some Renaissance Wax on it once it dries, give that stuff a try.

 

[Dean Center]

Jaime,
I LOVE turning lilac, but getting a piece big enough to turn before the wood splits can be a real challenge. The most recent lilac piece I made was a small hollow form that I finished with CA. After about 6 months, spent entirely out of sunlight, it still has the purple color. A fellow I know found that CA finish would preserve the pink color of Box Elder, so that's how I stumbled onto it for the lilac. A CA finish is not hard to apply, but it takes some practice. Everyone seems to have their own personal preference in method, so one size does not fit all. The fumes given off by the glue as it cures can be irritating to eyes and mouth, especially in the volume used for a finish, so use appropriate precautions. The fumes are NOT toxic, just irritating.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Bill, which walnut oil product do you prefer? I have some ordinary cooking walnut oil in the kitchen, but it can't possibly be that easy.

I use La Tourangelle Walnut Salad Oil. It is a salad oil and not a cooking oil. To keep it fresh, I keep it in the fridge. It has a "Use By" date and I make sure that I don't use expired oil on wood. Sometimes I really saturate with several applications on a piece over a period of a week or two and when I do that, it takes a month or two for it to fully cure. I also use it to make some tasty salad dressings.