Finish recommendation for a wine bottle coaster

[Cary Hulse]

Hi, I'm curious if anyone has a recommendation for a very durable and easily cleaned finish for a coaster intended for a wine bottle. It would need to be substantial enough to keep red wine from staining the wood and allow the piece to be cleaned easily. I typically use simple wax or oil finishes for most of my work, so this is new to me. Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[John K Jordan]

Hi, I'm curious if anyone has a recommendation for a very durable and easily cleaned finish for a coaster intended for a wine bottle. It would need to be substantial enough to keep red wine from staining the wood and allow the piece to be cleaned easily. I typically use simple wax or oil finishes for most of my work, so this is new to me. Thanks for any suggestions.

Cary, for coasters I like multiple applications of "danish" oil, let each coat dry overnight. Builds up a very durable finish. But I haven't made any coasters specifically for wine bottles.

I'd avoid anything with shellac since alcohol is a solvent. For example, for bottle stoppers I use oil, lacquer, acrylic, or TruOil. For things that may get handed or even wet, I often use the very durable TruOil gunstock. (TruOil is quite glossy but for gun stocks the gloss is usually cut back by padding with pumice and rottenstone.)

I have a 7" coaster someone sent me, turned in face orientation, but don't use what he used! - however I don't even know what finish he used and don't remember the wood type but it warps with the change in seasons. Quartersawn and/or some stable wood might be nice. Fortunately, coasters can have something like three small circles of felt or cork on the bottom to eliminate rocking with a slight warp.

JKJ

 

[Cary Hulse]

Thanks John.
I was looking into Waterlox® MARINE as a possibility for this. Seems like it would be durable and hold up to washing. Any experience with that?

Good idea for the felt pads to get it to sit stable.

 

[John K Jordan]

Thanks John.
I was looking into Waterlox® MARINE as a possibility for this. Seems like it would be durable and hold up to washing. Any experience with that?

Good idea for the felt pads to get it to sit stable.

Sorry, no experience with the Waterlox.

Another advantage of three little felt pads is if a coaster gets pushed around it won't scratch a finish. We have coasters made of sandstone and they all have the pads. Maybe 3/8 or 1/2" dia, can't remember.

JKJ

 

[Bill Alston]

It’s an interesting question. I’m not sure what I’d use for this application. I’m not overly keen on things like varnish but it might be a good choice. Another option might be an Epoxy finish of some sort? Let us know what you choose in the end and how it works out.

 

[Jon Minerich]

Carl,
I use Waterlox. It is easy to use (like Danish Oil) and provides a very durable, water and alcohol resistant finish.

 

[John K Jordan]

Carl,
I use Waterlox. It is easy to use (like Danish Oil) and provides a very durable, water and alcohol resistant finish.

@Jon Minerich : which Waterlox product do you use? I see multiple products here:

Waterlox® Products - Waterlox Coatings Corporation

Our products come in a wide range of formulas and ideal uses. The chart below will help you determine which will work best for your project. Original Formula (Sealer & Finish) Our true ORIGINAL resin-modified tung oil formula that forms a waterproof film that wears well and accentuates the...

waterlox.com

JKJ

 

[Jon Minerich]

I just use the original. It gives a nice semi-gloss finish. If you prefer high gloss you can purchase high gloss, or just buff the original to a high gloss. If you prefer satin you can purchase satin or just buff by hand with 0000 steel wool and a bit of paste wax (like MinWax furniture wax). A more simple approach would be to use wipe on poly. I use both MinWax warm satin and warm gloss. Either Waterlox or poly work great. I prefer Waterlox for a more natural “look and feel”. Hope this helps.

 

[Darryl Fective]

A few coats of fast-dry poly would work well. Spar urethane thinned with a little mineral spirits and/or naptha makes a durable and easy wipe-on finish that also gives some UV protection. (I've learned that my laser has trouble burning my logo thru it)