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Finishing with wax?

John Torchick

John Torchick

Joined
Jan 24, 2010
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Cleveland, Tennessee
I just watched a video about turning jar lid covers. SWMBO mentioned (for you military veterans, that is a direct order) making some for Christmas presents. I figure now is a good time to get started. The turner used carnuba wax. I don't have any but have Johnson's paste wax. Your thoughts and experience? Alternate recommendations? If I need carnuba wax, this means a trip to Woodcraft. I tend to buy more than what was on the list. Many thanks as this forum has been most helpful in the past!
Checked the shop and have this on hand- BLO, Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil, Shellawax, CA glue in thick and thin for pens.
 
You know what they say if the General makes a suggestion it is an order. Of the items you mention the Shellawax may be closest but if it is wax finish you want any wax should work. If it is a finish you want the Birchwood CAsey would be the best IMHO.
 
Carnauba wax is harder but certainly not necessary for your project. I made a dozen of those jar lids last Christmas and used Miniwax wipe on poly. Any finish you want to use should work. Typically wax finishes don't hold up that long. I prefer the wax as a final step over other finishes.
 
Johnson's Paste Wax contains carnauba wax (somewhere between 1% and 99%). :D Wax finish works well on hard closed grain wood that can be sanded to a nice sheen (mesquite, hard maple, white oak, etc) as long as the piece is a shelf queen. If it is something that gets handled then handprints will dull the wax finish.
 
Thanks, Bill.
John, I recall a lady who showed some jar lids when I attended your demo on sharpening at Cookeville. Long time ago, if I recall.
Edit- How does WOP hold up to soap and water, if the recipient washes the lid?
 
The polyurethane holds up just fine, but it's the wood underneath the varnish that's the problem. Because wood never stops moving, the hard finish on top will develop microscopic cracks that allow water to seep underneath. The tiny amount of water makes the wood swell and create larger cracks that aren't so microscopic anymore. Eventually the varnish begins to flake off and you get the picture.

My opinion about anything used in the kitchen that will be washed with soap and water are best with an oil finish that can be periodically refreshed. Other than that wash it, rinse it, and dry it all within 10 seconds
 
Bill, thanks.
Edit- How about lemon oil? Easily found in stores. Could include a short card with instructions with the jar and contents.
 
John Torchick said:
Bill, thanks.
Edit- How about lemon oil? Easily found in stores. Could include a short card with instructions with the jar and contents.
Click to expand...

Could you be more specific?

The type of products that come to my mind typically are furniture polishes with some citrus oil as part of its name like Old English Lemon Oil Furniture Polish which actually might not contain any meaningful part of a lemon other than the smell. The MSDS says it is toxic if ingested and to contact a poison control center or a doctor. Also, the MSDS says to avoid contact with eyes, skin and clothing. It's mainly greasy petroleum products and perfumes that never polymerize. As far as I know, the only useful function of any furniture polish is to remove dust ... and a feather duster probably does about as well and costs less.

There is a supermarket product that I like ... La Tourangelle Roasted Walnut Oil. It also can be used to make a wonderful vinaigrette salad dressing. :D
 
John Torchick said:
I just watched a video about turning jar lid covers. SWMBO mentioned (for you military veterans, that is a direct order) making some for Christmas presents. I figure now is a good time to get started. The turner used carnuba wax. I don't have any but have Johnson's paste wax. Your thoughts and experience? Alternate recommendations? If I need carnuba wax, this means a trip to Woodcraft. I tend to buy more than what was on the list. Many thanks as this forum has been most helpful in the past!
Checked the shop and have this on hand- BLO, Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil, Shellawax, CA glue in thick and thin for pens.
Click to expand...
You have the perfect excuse for a trip to Woodcraft. Take advantage of it! Not often the General issues an order like that! I personally would spray them with Deft Laquer in a rattle can... Have fun, Aloha
 
Carnauba is said to be the hardest natural wax, and therefore should hold up much better than any paste wax. However, it is not durable like finishes that actually harden, so may need to be buffed or renewed occasionally if handled or subjected to warm temperatures. With that said, my first bowl (1996), which is black cherry, I finished by dipping in paraffin and wiping off the excess. It still has a matte finish which does not seem to need any further treatment. Carnauba would produce a shinier finish. No discoloration occurs from the application of it, which is one reason why I like it. Other waxes are probably similar in that respect. I think they have merit for certain applications; e.g., if you don't want yellowing and are not concerned about having a hard finish.
 
I have used Butcher Bowling Alley wax, which is a non yellowing paste wax, with good success.
A blend of Carnuba, microcrystalline wax and mineral spirits as a softening agent.
I have pieces 15 years old that have a good finish without re buffing.
It is no longer made by Butcher ( or Johnson & Johnson ) but another company called BWC.
 
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