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Glaser gouges

S

Shavings

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I have old Glaser gouges that have worn down. I want to reuse handles, but told by several suppliers that new mfg gouges will not fit in handles. They appear to be 1/2 and 5/8 bar stock. What can I use or where can I get ?
 
http://www.thompsonlathetools.com/tooltype.asp?TYPE=OTHER

"We now carry a limited supply of replacement blades to fit Jerry's old original red aluminum handle. Sizes available are the 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8 V shape tools only. NOTE, the V shape flute is the same as our other V shape tools shown on this site, this is NOT the original flute shape that came with the handle. Order a V shape tool the diameter needed THEN send a email to me stating the steel is for this handle. "
 
If you've never used 'em try 'em

Shavings,
Gordon put me on the Thompson tools and I like them a lot. They really hold an edge, so if you can use them I suggest giving them a go in your handles. I don't think you'll be disappointed, they hold an edge well.
Mike Lentz
 
speaking of "red handle"...
In another thread I mentioned I recently bought some new, old stock Glaser tools. Someone posted that the red handle was the 10V tool steel and the 15V tool steel came with a black handle. Is this true? I ask because one of the gouges I bought was a 3/4 deep bowl gouge that was supposed to be 15V steel. It has a red handle. I had never even seen a glaser gouge in person before getting these in the mail but from reading I was under the assumption that the 15V tool steel was only a small section that was attached to the end of the tool due to the expense of the material. It is basically welded onto some stainless or HSS. The gouge I have is just like this. The only section of the tool that is fluted and not just solid round bar is a short section at the tip of the tool (maybe 3-4" without actually looking at it). So I guess I am asking... what tool do I have with a red handle?? ;)
 
Peter, The red handle is A-11 and the black handle is V15.

I could never understand why Jerry started welding the tip on in the first place, the cost to machine the two parts then weld them together wouldn't save that much money. Who knows.
 
Doug- so, he must have welded all the 3/4" size deep V gouges then right? I guess I am confused because i was under the impression that the only steel he welded was V15 and this was because the steel was so pricey. My tool is welded and it is in a red handle. Either I have a v15 tool in the wrong handle or he welded A-11 steel as well and the reason for welding is because such a large diameter bar of A-11 OR V15 steel is too expensive to use for the whole tool. Does that make sense?
I guess I don;t care that much except for the fact that when I bought this tool, I was told I was buying a v15 tool and not the A-11 which is a heck of a lot cheaper! ;)
 
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To answer that question we need to find someone who bought a V15 before Jerry sold but I think both were welded. Sure the steel is expensive but I sell that 3/4 diameter steel for $95. That's what it should sell for... in Ohio.
 
Doug Thompson said:
To answer that question we need to find someone who bought a V15 before Jerry sold but I think both were welded. Sure the steel is expensive but I sell that 3/4 diameter steel for $95. That's what it should sell for... in Ohio.
Click to expand...

Hi Doug,

I do have one of the Glaser 3/4" V-15 gouges. I bought it several years before the change in management.

It is a solid piece of V-15. No welds at all. Just a big solid gouge that will really take a big rough blank to round in a few nano seconds :)

Also, years ago I bought a 5/8" Glaser bowl gouge that was supposed to be V-15. When I recieved it, it had a red handle. It was from a well respected mail order vendor. I decided to call the Man himself to see what was up. Jerry told me that indeed some V-15 gouges went out with the red handles. So I just decided to not worry about it. It still held a great edge. It is almost gone now, but luckily I have my Thomson gouges to replace it.

Best wishes,
Dave
 
Doug- I like to make my own tools. Nothing like you do but simple scrapers and skews.... stuff I can grind easily, no gouges. I buy pre-hardened HSS tool bits for this and noticed some that are 5% cobalt and then a step up from there is "super cobalt". Do you have any thoughts on this steel? The price goes up pretty quickly but they are still pretty cheap. I think "super cobalt" is similar to M42 but I am not positive. Just wondering where the cobalt steel falls in the line of tool steel as compared to 15v and a11 which I think uses vanadium content as its feature selling point. The burr does not last too long on the HSS scrapers so I was thinking about trying a cobalt steel just because its offered in the local industrial supply place I get the steel. maybe it would last longer???.
 
I am not Doug, I don't know much about steel.
I have tried that route. The problem is shaping the "pre-hardened" blank, especially the 10% Cobalt. May be I should use other type of grinding wheel. They are very tough to grind with the regular wheel that I normally use for HSS. They caused the wheel to glaze real quick; it took a lot of patience and took a lot dressing on the wheel to make a simple bedan type scraper. I was paying with the useful life of the grinding wheel.

I don't have similar tool in HSS for comparison.

Gordon
 
I have mostly Glaser tools including a number of the black handled ones and yes, they take a little longer to sharpen then softer steels but since they hold the edge much longer, I find I spend less time sharpening. If you are making a major change, it will take time on any grinder but from your post, I have to ask if your grinder has the wheels on it that it came with. These are not very good wheels. Suggest you replace at least one of them with a good wheel. It's also worth getting the Oneway balancing system. We all do a lot of sharpeniing

Malcolm Smith.
 
I have no problem grinding the Glaser or Thompson gouges. It was the 10% Cobalt blanks that I was talking about. I have AO wheel on one side and Norton SG on the other side.
Gordon
 
I don't know what the super cobalt blank is make from but this might help.

Cobalt is in cutting tools to improve high temperture strenght for example, when using a end mill to cut steel the temperature at the cutting edge is very high so more cobalt in the steel is good to have. We never reach the high temperatures so cobalt doesn't help us

For a lathe tool we need elements in the steel that resist wear so once the edge is sharpened we want it to stay that way. Look for elements that form carbides like vanadium, tungten, chromium and moly. BUT Tool blanks are only a common HSS (which could be anything) and M2 which has to have a percent of basic elements to be called M2 so buy M2 when you can.

Grinding a blank with a 80 or 100 grit wheel is tough to do, it as to done with a 46 or maybe a 60 grit wheel. The wheel also has to be very agressive and still remain cool.

Hope this helps,
Doug
 
As layman, I have high regard for Mr. Glaser. Looking at the Tool Steel Comparagraph from Crucibles link, maybe welding a CPM 15V tip to steel shaft was for a technical (safety) reason rather than just cost saving. From the graph the wear resistance of this steel is the highest, but the "Toughness" is not even half of M2. The last thing any turner would like to face is a bowl gouge snapping off. Especially those who could afford this line of tools aren't likely to turn a 5" bowl on a ½ horse mini lathe.

Just curious mind.

Gordon
 
Owen
I believe that the same web-site Doug referenced has data on M4. I've looked for similar data on 2030 and 2060 and not found it.
 
Owen Lowe said:
A steel type I've not seen discussed is the M4 that Oneway uses for their tools... Would you know how the following compare: M4, 2030, 2060, Crown PM?
Click to expand...

Oneways is in the M4/2030 range. A good powdered metal.
 
n7bsn said:
Owen
I believe that the same web-site Doug referenced has data on M4. I've looked for similar data on 2030 and 2060 and not found it.
Click to expand...

I found that information a while back but changed computers and can't find the link. There's a study being done right now to compare the different steels that we use, when the article is written I hope it's matter of fact.

IMO - there is no way to claim one steel lasts "X" times longer without controled testing, which could be done if someone has the money to do it.
 
I'm a bit perplexed by some of the posts which refer to the vanadium steel being a short piece welded onto the end of a bar of another less expensive steel. I have a fair number of Glaser tools bought when he was still in business and there isn't the slightest indication that this is the case. It would also be out of character for him to have done this. I can't speak for tools made after he retired.

There is also a blue handled series in a softer steel though only certain tools were made of this. The smaller gouges were available in the red but not the black series. It's my understanding that this was becaise of the possibility of breakage.

As people are looking for his turning tools, I would mention that he also produced a very superior screw chuck.

Malcolm Smith
 
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