Glue Block from 3/4" White Oak

[Glen Schultz]

I am just getting started, don't have a lot around in 5/4 or thicker hardwood material, and would like to know if 3/4" Oak with a tenon cut in it and a good surface would be substantial enough.
I plan on cutting a 5" or 6" bowl made of three layers of oak and a top layer of walnut.
All wood is dry.
fastening with medium CA and accelerator .
I plan on using a center up against it until I shape the outside, and partially hollow the inside.

 

[hockenbery]

That will be fine for a glue block.
CA works fine for attaching the glue block.
But only works fine for holding if you don’t get catches.

The shock from a catch will likely break the glue joint.
One of the features of using CA to attach a glue block is that the glue block is removed by tapping a flat chisel into the joint which breaks the glue leaving both wood surfaces in tact.

If you have had a good class you probably don’t get catches and the CA will work for you.
If you are’t real skilled yet I would suggest using titebond to attach the glue block. Let it set overnight. Then the glueblock is parted off removing a lot of wood.

Alternatively you could use double sided tape for a bowl that size and it will hold the bowl to the glue block through catches that would break the CA joint.

Lyle Jamieson has an excellent video on turning and mounting a glue block.
I have used the same process often after I saw Lyle do it in the late 90s
Both the glue block and bowl surface have slight concaves.
When the glue block is lined up with the coat hanger and pressed against the bowl I give it a little twist. This spreads the CA bead into a wide glue joint as the CA goes into the concave areas.

View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=y8b35iq4LTA

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

As a glue block that will work fine. Also the CA will work to attach the work piece. The glue block only needs a slight concave with flat outside. Use a bead of thick CA to attach the piece.
Looks like Al beat me to it