Grease....

[Michael Beswick]

My new bandsaw arrived with lashings of grease on the rack and pinion for adjusting the depth of cut, and on the tilt mechanism for the table. As an engineer I approve of grease, as a woodturner, less so!
Should I clean most of it off, just leaving a thin smear, or leave it to ensure dust is collected on the grease not the mechanism?!

 

[Richard Coers]

I believe you know the answer, LOL. Tilting the table is such a rare occurrence in my shop that no lube would not cut the life of the mechanicals one bit.

 

[Dwayne Watt]

Clean it all off and lube the rack/pinions (if you so wish) with a dry lube of your choice. Sawdust and gear mechanisms coated with adhesive known as grease (or bearings for that matter) don't play well together as you probably know.

 

[Noreen Debrot]

Yesterday, I spent (wasted) a day cleaning the gunk from the blade guard mechanism on my bandsaw for the first time in 5 years. It was coated in grease and caked sawdust. I was having a difficult time moving the wheel to raise and lower the guard. Took it apart, removed blade, blade guard. and the steel plate protecting the geared mechanism. It had the factory supplied grease imbedded and was clogged. Took quite a while to clean it all out and remove the sawdust/grease without removing the gears at all. Afterward, I am able to rotate the wheel, but it is somehow off its position, so it sticks in one spot for each rotation - I probably bent it slightly trying to move it. I applied some spray lube/ rust inhibitor and I will check it again after several uses.
Long story, but I would remove quite a bit of the grease. And I will set a regular machine maintenance routine to avoid clogs.
I am curious what opinions the experts on this forum have to say. I welcome advice as well.

 

[Doug Freeman]

In my shop all ww tools, flatwork or turning, get the grease cleaned off sliding friction surfaces and coated with paste wax. Obviously items like bearings or high speed friction surfaces get oil or grease, but any manual sliding surface gets wax. No dust clooection and no rust.

 

[Michael Beswick]

coated with paste wax

What’s that? I have Canuba and microcrystalline wax which clearly are not the solution! I was thinking of using powdered graphite ( used on locks and window channels in my “LBC”)!

 

[Adam Wager]

What’s that? I have Canuba and microcrystalline wax which clearly are not the solution! I was thinking of using powdered graphite ( used on locks and window channels in my “LBC”)!

I bought a tin of minwax paste wax (paste finishing wax) like 10 years ago and think there is still half a can left. Worked fine for lubricating tablesaw trunions etc and protecting cast iron surfaces from rust. Recently started trying the Blaster advanced dry spray lube (silicon free) just for ease of application and haven't had any issues with that.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I use Johnson’s Paste Wax (no longer available, but I have a lifetime supply). Microcrystalline paste wax also works just as well.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I have Canuba and microcrystalline wax which clearly are not the solution!

Would be the solution for me. If the carnauba has silicon in it dont use on a surface wood contacts, like a table saw top.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

I use Johnson’s Paste Wax (no longer available, but I have a lifetime supply).

I also have a tin of Johnson’s Wax. Inherited it from my father. Still half a can left, which may get left to my son!