Green wood HF and small items

[russ stanton]

I would like to turn some small hollowforms (vases and such and also some smallish items like bird houses and ornaments from some just cut cherry.

This will all be done in spindle orientation. Do I still need to twice turn or take other care when drying the turned items?

 

[Tom Coghill]

Russ,

I don’t have a straight answer for you because I don’t know what you intend to do with the completed project. Do you care if the turnings stay round? Or do you want them to dry with "additional character"?

Anytime you turn something from green or higher moisture content, it will change as it dries.

If you plan to have snug fitting lids, you will have to take every precaution to get them “dry†before your final turning. However, if you are looking to make quirky or items like bird houses and bird feeders that will be used as such, there is no need to wait. These are really more of a tool rather than a keepsake.

You will ALWAYS have to protect your turning from checking and cracks if you are turning green wood. This is especially true if you are including the pith in your turning.

I hope this info helps you determine your turning needs.

Tom

 

[glenkey]

If you don't like the looks of a warpped HF, then I would double turn your HFs.
Be sure to keep the wall thickness even to keep it from cracking. Have fun!

 

[hockenbery]

Glen and Tom said it - what do you want?

I turn a lot of hollow forms from green wood.
I turn them once. I put the turned pieces in a card board box and close the flaps for a day.
Day two I let the flaps partially close. Day three open the flaps. Day four put it on the shelf for a day. Then sand and finish.
The box provides a little humidity chamber that slows the drying just a little.

For ornaments and bird houses I prefer dry wood. I rip squares on the bandsaw about 3 feet long 1x1, 3x3, 3x3 and
Air dry them a year or so. I put stickers between them when stacking to allow air circulation.

Have fun,
Al

 

[MichaelMouse]

Been some time since I made one, but for birdhouses, make yourself a sled for your tablesaw and cut a saw kerf the full length of the piece, but only deep enough to go through the "sides" you'll leave. If you like, put a 1/8 piece of something in as a keeper while hollowing. Remove for drying. It should close on its own, but no harm, just ventilation if it doesn't.

Roof should be cross-grain, so as not to soak up rain and split as it cycles. Any time you leave the "pith" you should allow free access to the air from both sides. That way you reduce the wet/dry side differential that causes splits.

http://www.wild-bird-watching.com/Building_Bird_Houses.html#sthash.s3CbmgSc.dpbs Different dimensions for different tenants.