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Greg Hislop

Joined
Jan 29, 2024
Messages
12
Likes
10
Location
Odenton, MD
Hello. New to woodturning. I'm a youth baseball coach, and many of our players use wood bats to train in the offseason. There's also a wood bat tournament that my team plays in. So my only interest is in making wood bats. Saw a couple videos on youtube, thought it looked cool, so I bought the cheapest lathe I could find, rigged it up on an old table saw, bought a few blanks, and got to work.

The lathe itself is one of those Vevor 14x40" models you can buy for $200.00. Came with a skew, a chisel, and a parting tool. So la-dee-dah, juust about everything about it was a complete pain in my *** to start. Here's an overview of the problems:

--- Mounted the lathe on the saw table with lag bolts, washers, and wingnuts, through a 1" thick x 3 foot flat piece of lumber (actually an old stair riser) to give it extra stability. Shaking is minimal as long as wood is properly balanced (big if)
---The tool rest was too low, and the allen wrench adjustment wouldn't hold it at the higher setting. The manual horizontal slider adjustment tightening bar conflicted with the junction where the lathe extension attaches (i.e. i couldn't slide the tool rest right or left toward the middle because the twist adjustment would jam up against the connection area). So ditched the bar, and got a wingnut for the bottom.
--- Also mounted the tool rest directly on the horizontal frame bar to get it 2-3" higher, and used some pieces of 2x4 as a shim on the other side to level it. Closer to the wood now, which made is usable for bat blanks.
--- Had a heck of a time manually adjusting the belt drive, which is the only way to change the speed/torque. But figured it out after much trial and error.
--- The spindle end tightener wheel slowly loosens when you turn the lathe on. So I ended up putting a nut on the threaded bolt that holds the pointy spinner thing, which more or less took care of that.
--- The spikey nut thing that holds the bat on the drive end needed to pounded into the center of the blank (or so the videos said). Well, that was a bunch of crap. But you do need to make like four precise 2mm holes on the blank for the 4 teeth on the spike nut. Then tighten the hell out of the other end to hold it secure.
--- The first few days, I had an issue with blank (37" ash or maple) shaking and popping off the lathe, so I got one of those steady rest things with the 3 plastic wheels. Then that popped off (plus the adjustment/tightening bars on that thing conflicted with parts of the lathe, and with itself!). So it ditched that piece of crap. The key was getting a good center finder for the ends of the blank, and tightening the spindle end so that sucker wouldn't pop off. Also, turning off the lathe (which is key) and tapping the spindle end base with a rubber mallet if it looked like it was not well aligned with the drive end (I'm dealing with like 37", so getting it right involves some ingenuity)
--- After my wife complained that the sanding process left a layer of dust on everything in the garage, most notably car, I rigged up a dust vacuum with an old shop vac, some flexible downspout tubing, and a cardboard 3D trapezoid suction. Cost roughly $10.00. Works surprising well.

So after much trial and error, and maybe another $100.00 wasted on modifications, here's my rig (with my 3rd bat on the hopper):

1706886088360.png

I'm sure everyone on here probably knows this already, but you basically divide the blank into 3 inch sections, use the parting tool to grind it down to the proper diameter (handle end is about 1.25", barrel end is ~2.25-2.5". Use a caliper to measure the diameter. Grind, measure, repeat (i can't measure while the lathe is on like some of those guys in the video, the calipers pop up off if they touch the bat). Then chisel the hell out of the areas in between, blend that sucker to make the transition between sections, get close to where you want to be, then go to work with the skew.

Here's my first one, with the two ends not sawed off. 34" about 38 ounces. Barrel on this was 2.75", so a lot of extra weight
1706887577479.png

Bat #2, this one is maple, 33", 37 ounces with 2.75" barrel. Knob end not sawed down/finished in this pic. Again much larger than any kid should use (except for those dads that believe they have a superstar 11 year old because he's 5'2' 175lbs and can "swing with the big boys." but can't get around on a 60 mph fastball. My advice to those dads, lay off the nightly cheeseburgers and onion rings, that kid needs to play a position in the field if he want to even make it to High School, much less the Dodgers 2032 opening day roster):

1706887959736.png


Bat #3, 33", 36 oz. Painted this one and Bat #2, what a mess that was. Still too big for an11-12 year old, but i'm working my way down there. Need to get one of those counter-sink drill bits to cup out the. You can see the nut on the spindle end that I rigged in the below pic

1706888591678.png

Skipping ahead to bats #4 and #5 (can't post any more pics because reached the 4 pic max). My wife bought me a new set of tools, which are really sharp (unlike the crap that came with the lathe). So took some getting used to. Made 2 more bats, both are about 32", and 35 and 33 ounces, 2.5" and 2 1/4" Barrels. Getting closer usable specs (for training only, way too heavy to use in a game).

Bottom line, this little $200.00 piece of crap lathe is doing its job after about 2 months, after some common sense modifications. Have not chopped off a finger, hand, or arm yet. Wear n95 masks during sanding process, so no COPD issues. Only interested in turning bats for now, so any tips are welcome, especially on a new tool rest that would be compatible with this thing because I need to be able to move it vertically (up and down, to the layperson) to get the new sharper tools to work properly as the diameter is reduced during the turning process. Look forward to posting more bats!
 
Last edited:
Joined
Feb 18, 2023
Messages
622
Likes
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Location
Orange, CA
you are pretty good with your hands. I’m sure many are impressed. I am. Tool sharpening and practice are what I’d think most important. Maybe a mentor in a nearby turning club.
 
Joined
Jan 29, 2024
Messages
12
Likes
10
Location
Odenton, MD
My dad lives in a retirement community with a Woodshop but the guys out there are scared to use the lathe. I’m on my own, but I’m getting a grinder for my workbench. The tool rest is a real problem though
 
Joined
Jan 29, 2024
Messages
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Likes
10
Location
Odenton, MD
Thanks for the thoughtful responses. One thing I'm noticing (and my wife has pointed out a few times in the last 2 weeks) is that this is quite an expensive hobby. $40.00 per bat blank, and I've made 5 bats now, so that's pretty much the cost of the lathe itself. So I have three options: (1) make fewer bats, (2) keep cranking them out and face divorce court with a garage full of bats (hmmm..... tempting. just kidding of course), or (3) start selling them to people.
 
Joined
Jan 29, 2024
Messages
12
Likes
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Location
Odenton, MD
Too much liability involved to sell bats and that is one reason bats are so expensive. Lot more to the story of bat production and sales but it is involved. I cannot believe you can turn a toothpick with that lathe but you done good getting there.
With this lathe, it takes a total of maybe 4 hours, start to finish, including sanding. Sometimes during a cut i'll be pressing a parting tool or gouge against the blank and it will actually stop the motor for a second. Can't run the lathe continuously for more than 30 minutes per the warning label, have to let it cool down. Something to do with the engine cycling or something. But I'm always having to stop and start to measure, or to adjust the tool rest. So its a piece of ****, but she gets the job done so far.

So, if you want a decent maple bat (not maple/bamboo hybrid), youth size, 29"-31", you're probably paying $100.00 or more. A lot of kids age 12 through High School use wood bats for offseason training. Problem is that every one of them breaks at some point, whether its 2 weeks or 6 months. The composite (non-wood) USSSA 1.15 bats used in league and tournament play can run up to $500.00, but at least most come with a 1 year warranty against cracking. They're actually supposed to have small cracks when they are properly broken-in to enhance the trampoline effect. Some parents will even cheat by placing a composite bat into a pressured roller to speed up the break-in process, which is illegal. Equipment costs (and parent behavior) are crazy, but that's the age we live in. Every kid has to have the best bat I guess.
 
Joined
Jan 29, 2024
Messages
12
Likes
10
Location
Odenton, MD
4) Give some away. This will give you a chance to see how your bats do in the real world before selling them.

Yeah, if I had the money I'd do that. I need to recoup my losses this point, or this will end up being a very limited hobby. I can only have so many charges on my credit card statement from "Woodpeckers" before my wife starts getting nervous about what I'm really doing in the garage. . . .
 
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