Groovin'

[David Shombert]

I sometimes like to turn a groove in the rim of a platter. Not a wide groove, just something to set off one part of the rim. Maybe follow up by coloring the groove, maybe I'll leave it plain. But I've always had a problem finding the right tool for this job. No matter what I use, I always get some small places of tear-out someplace along the edge of the groove, depending on the grain. I've used a couple of different point tools, Cindy Drozda''s tool, a skew chisel, and other things that I can't even recall now. Some are better than others, but it seems like there's always a place - sometimes very small - where the edge is chipped a little. Adding color in that case makes it really obvious.

What tools do people use for this task? Or is it better to just forget about turning a groove on face grain?

 

[Tim Connell]

I've not used this particular tool, but the first thing that came to mind is D-way Tools Teardrop tool.

https://d-waytools.com/beading-tools/diamond-tool-aka-tear-drop-tool-shaft-size-390/

 

[Clifton C]

It depends is the first thing that comes to mind. Face plate turning straight grained wood has two 180° areas that can sometimes have a bit of tear out. For me, cutting gives best results, wether its a skew used as a skew (not as NRS) or a spindle gauge. If scraping, the lightest touch and freshly sharpened, honed with the smallest turned burr can give good results. On areas that just don't want to play nice, a sprits of water or your finish for the piece can sometimes stiffen up the fibers for the final finish cut. Another thought that comes to mind is to turn the beads and accent lines with as much meat (wood) left as possible. Leave the back of the rim thick, turn the front of the rim and a partial transition into the platter, detail these parts, then thin down the back of the rim and turn out the center. This might require you to change your work flow but the added mass can help with cleaner cuts.

 

[Richard Coers]

The size or width of the groove you want to use would help us select a tool or method for you. A thin line? Then a skew used like a knife. Wider? Then cut with a skew from two directions to make a V cut.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Like you Tried thin parting tool, diamond pt, point tool, skew and then the #1 Hunter . The result was the best with the Hunter . Almost tearout free and well defined.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Here it depends on what wood I'm using. On koa, no matter what tool you use you will not get a clean groove. On a Lychee bowl no matter what tool you use you get a perfect groove. If you are getting tear out, try a detail spindle gouge and cut a bead. I have most of the tools Mike Hunter makes. I have used the Osprey to cut some beautiful grooves, like @Gerald Lawrence no tear out, and a nice job on Koa too.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

Yes it is possible to get a clean V groove in just about any wood using a conventional skew. The angle of the skew should be somewhere around 60 degrees to give a sufficient leading point. The edge should be honed to raiser sharp right to that leading point. The skew is set on the tool rest with the width close to vertical and the handle slightly down, then as you move the tool into the wood make that movement parallel to the ground angle and slightly angled away from the cut to avoid getting a catch as the groove gets deeper. The method requires alternating cuts to form the V, the best way I have found is to mark the center with a heavy pencil line then start a light cut on the edge of the line and switch to the other side then continually alternating sides until the groove is the desired width. This method is commonly used for V grooves on spindle turning but it will also work on face grain work with a little more attention to details.

 

[hockenbery]

A skew or a pyramid tool will do the job most of the time.
It is important to alternate cutting the side walls like @Don Wattenhofer described.

experiment with speed. Often a reduced speed will improve the groove.

good light and good vision are needed. I use optivisors to sharpen and magnify the groove.
You want the cuts to meet at the bottom of the groove. Also the lightest cuts you can make.

if the groove is on the side wall a file for sharpening Japanese saw is handy to clean up one small spot rather than recutting the whole groove.

 

[David Shombert]

Many helpful tips. Thanks to all of you.