How would handle this defect

[Charles Hill]

I was wondering how you would handle this defect This defect about 2 1/2" long about 1 " wide believe soft maple I would like leave it but with 1/2 side it might just come through the other side of the bowl

 

[Odie]

I was wondering how you would handle this defect This defect about 2 1/2" long about 1 " wide believe soft maple I would like leave it but with 1/2 side it might just come through the other side of the bowl

That definitely looks like a bark inclusion to me.....most likely caused by an injury to the tree at some point.

You can fix it with clear epoxy.

The bowl MUST be seasoned to stable moisture content.

Bring the surface to the best "tool finish" you can, prior to any sanding.

Tape around the inclusion, so that the application of epoxy is limited to just that area. Push the epoxy into the bark and crevices with as much pressure you can with your thumb and fingers. (use disposable gloves)

After the epoxy dries, take off the excess epoxy above the level of the surrounding wood. This is done off the lathe with (preferably a 2" disc) at about 150 grit.

Proceed on the lathe, using your normal procedures for sanding.

I have a burl bowl with a large patch of bark and rot that has been repaired this way out in the shop right now. It hasn't been sanded yet, but the tape has been removed. Let me know if you'd like to see it, and I'll try to get you a picture of it......

ooc

 

[Odie]

Here's a pic I happen to have already. This is Walnut burl with a little void in the bottom of the bowl that has been filled with epoxy. The tape hasn't been removed yet. This is much smaller than your bark inclusion, but the process is the same.

Tape is regular cellophane tape here, but I've used black plastic tape, as well. Either of these two tapes will work fine. When you peal the tape, it will tear the epoxy, but all above the surrounding wood surface will be removed anyway......

ooc

 

[hockenbery]

My inclination is to leave it "natural"

Bark part you can pull it out with dental picks or keep it by treating it with thin CA.

When I finish piece like these I often use a wood burner to remove any little fuzzies in the opening that I don't like.
I finish with a wipe on wipe off waterlox. This tends to pool in openings so I blow it out with compressed air then wipe the surrounding area so it does not gum up.

 

[john lucas]

Just make it smaller. If you started the bo between center you could have shifted the bowl and possibly have iminated it. At this stage you could simply make the bowl smaller or hou have to live with a parch of some kind

 

[Bill Weaver]

In my area people like these interesting little imperfections:cool2:

 

[hockenbery]

You can usually spot these by looking at the bark on the log
There is usually a disruption to the bark pattern.

 

[MichaelMouse]

I was wondering how you would handle this defect This defect about 2 1/2" long about 1 " wide believe soft maple I would like leave it but with 1/2 side it might just come through the other side of the bowl

Probably does, if it's branch related. Branches start at the heart. If it's a fold, where bark has filled in over an injury, might be gone a half an inch in. You have the whole piece, so you know which.

In any case, leave it alone for now. You're not going to stop it opening a bit initially, then closing as the piece cures. Turn the outside before filling if you're a good gouge man. Saves refilling if you chip anything out before final contour. I like bark flakes in a CA medium base or, if I have it around, epoxy. Makes a nice fill. Don't saturate it with glue, just tamp the pieces in on a base of glue or it won't take a finish like the natural wood. Might want to fill inside before final contour if you're a bowl (narrow flute) gouge type.

Yes, soft maple of some sort.

 

[robo hippy]

If it is wet, I would chase it with thin CA glue. When dry, I would again chase with the thin stuff, then fill with medium CA glue, and add some dark wood dust. The thin CA will pull the thicker stuff all the way down the smallest cracks. I do not use accelerator but let the glue dry at normal speed. This usually means waiting till the next day.

robo hippy

 

[Charles Hill]

these bark inclusion I believe they are cause from tapping the tree for maple syrup Because logs come my folks house and they tap the trees about 15 years

 

[MichaelMouse]

Doesn't look like a spile scar to me. Not the type used on the hard maples here, at any rate. The basic method of tapping involves an auger, which leaves a clean-shaped hole, not an irregular one.