Ideas for hanging a large bowl on the wall

[David Wyke]

I stopped by the gallery to see what they needed and received a second request for bowls to hang on the wall. Seems some people want to hang their bowls on a wall for display.
I don’t really want to use the sawtooth type hangers so I’m thinking about trying this.
My foot is usually 1/3 +/- the diameter of the bowl with only about 1/8” actually contacting the surface. I could make this wider and do an undercut similar to the dovetail on a mortise but a little deeper. This way it would be into the bottom of the bowl and give a little more support and not just the foot. The bowl could then be positioned easier. It could be hung on a nail or hook.
I’ll draw a sketch if that’s not clear. I need to check the weight of some of the large finished bowls (16”-18”) I have but I think this should work.

If you have another way or know of a piece of hardware I’m open to suggestions. Just don’t want anything that can be seen holding the bowl on the wall.

 

[Tom Gall]

If you can adjust your foot (sounds like you can) by making a slightly larger dovetail so you can use a "circular version of a French cleat" (I think that is the correct term). You can then turn a small disk with a reverse dovetail with a center hole to screw into the wall ... you can even decorate it! Don't know if the gallery is willing to put more holes in their wall ... but it was their request.

 

[john lucas]

I experimented with this idea for platters. It's basically a spring loaded dovetail. You put the platter over the top portion and push down. Then when you push the platter flat against the wall and release the spring pushes these apart and hold it. To get it off simply push down on the platter and pull it away. My dovetail need to be sharper for this to work better. Drilling the holes parallel and perpendicular is essential. Possibly a stronger spring. Maybe even afkat spring in between the guide rods would be better.
The problem I had was the top loose piece is too wobly and the platter comes off too easily. Make the guide rods longer like the top one and glue them into the top loose part would help. Also making the the circular part the full size of the mirtiss and then cutting off the sides will give you more grip.
I need to experiment some more because I'm turning larger work now and don't really like using wire like a picture us hung.

 

[Phil Hamel]

I stopped by the gallery to see what they needed and received a second request for bowls to hang on the wall. Seems some people want to hang their bowls on a wall for display.
I don’t really want to use the sawtooth type hangers so I’m thinking about trying this.
My foot is usually 1/3 +/- the diameter of the bowl with only about 1/8” actually contacting the surface. I could make this wider and do an undercut similar to the dovetail on a mortise but a little deeper. This way it would be into the bottom of the bowl and give a little more support and not just the foot. The bowl could then be positioned easier. It could be hung on a nail or hook.
I’ll draw a sketch if that’s not clear. I need to check the weight of some of the large finished bowls (16”-18”) I have but I think this should work.

If you have another way or know of a piece of hardware I’m open to suggestions. Just don’t want anything that can be seen holding the bowl on the wall.

I like your idea. A simple groove around the inside foot would let them turn it on the wall for the best view. A Technatool dovetail tool would work.

 

[John K Jordan]

I've used keyhole router bits to hang fairly heavy wooden things flat against a wall, like a picture frame.
Either drill a hole or plunge then cut a short slot. But seems like a shame to cut into the foot/bottom of a bowl or platter though, unless it was destined to live there forever. Ok for heavy picture frames. Put a screw in the wall. Very secure.

I made this for my shop and mounted it with a routed keyhole. Truthful.


One keyhole would not allow rotating, of course.

There are some wire solutions but most are obnoxious. This is one the least objectionable I found, but I'm not wild about it either:

Medium Size Bowl Hanger, Plate Hanger, Platter Hanger, Bowl Wall Display, Plate Wall Hanger, Bowl Wall Hanger, Bowl Wall Hanger - Etsy

This Wall Decor item by Icanhangit has 328 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Marion, MA. Listed on Jul 26, 2025

www.etsy.com

Shouldn't damage the bowl, though.
Or search for 'wall bowl hanger' or 'wall bowl display' on Amazon.

I'd be inclined to suggest making a bracket with two or more support arms the right size, maybe black - rather see that than wire.

I use these tablet stands to display things on tables - something could be made to fit a bowl. But with a similar design a bowl would have to lean back a bit.



There are versions that grip on both top and bottom. Have to custom make one for a bowl mounted vertically.

Maybe visit a museum and find out how they display non-picture things on walls.

Maybe go for an incantation....

JKJ

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

This is some plate stands that I made for displaying platters on a shelf, but the idea could possibly be easily adapted to wall hanging by replacing the central piece with a longer one piece upright that could have the means to hang on the wall. The top could be supplied with a straight shaft and an end like the two bottom supports.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

If you can adjust your foot (sounds like you can) by making a slightly larger dovetail so you can use a "circular version of a French cleat" (I think that is the correct term). You can then turn a small disk with a reverse dovetail with a center hole to screw into the wall ... you can even decorate it! Don't know if the gallery is willing to put more holes in their wall ... but it was their request.

A circular French cleat just as you describe is exactly what I thought of as well. Try to keep the corresponding disc as large in diameter that will fit into the foot. And make sure the dovetail angle is more accute by a few degrees than what the typical turner would make for chucking purposes, to make sure there is a safety factor to the dovetail shape to keep the bowl from somehow hopping off the wall mounted cleat. By that I mean, if you have dovetail jaws, like Vicmarc, add a couple-few degrees to the dovetail shape of bowl and cleat.

And I would make a wider contact width on the bowl foot. You said you make a 1/8" wide contact patch. I'd boost the foot width to at least 1/2" wide contact patch, which means your tapered down foot width at the bowl shell will be about 1/4" to 3/8". That's not a lot of mass to hold the cantilevered weight stress of the bowl on its mating hanger, especially if the bowl weighs more than a cereal bowl-sized dimension, you don't want it to crack at the end grain area of the foot. A 16-18" bowl, there's real weight there. If this bowl is wall art more than a worker, hardly anyone will ever see the foot anyway to criticize its beefier foot. (Non-turners would never question the foot anyway.)

And remember, circles of different diameters will only touch at one point, so all the weight stress will bear on the bowl foot at a point, not a length. Instead of a full circle, smaller diameter cleat, I would make the cleat of the same nesting dovetail diameter, then cut that cleat to a bit less that 1/2 the radius. This way the bowl will fit over the cleat, but the bowl and cleat will be in full contact for the circumference of the cleat, distributing the weight of the bowl over a greater circumference of the bowl foot.

Phew, that was a mouthful!

 

[David Wyke]

If you can adjust your foot (sounds like you can) by making a slightly larger dovetail so you can use a "circular version of a French cleat" (I think that is the correct term). You can then turn a small disk with a reverse dovetail with a center hole to screw into the wall ... you can even decorate it! Don't know if the gallery is willing to put more holes in their wall ... but it was their request.

I experimented with this idea for platters. It's basically a spring loaded dovetail. You put the platter over the top portion and push down. Then when you push the platter flat against the wall and release the spring pushes these apart and hold it. To get it off simply push down on the platter and pull it away. My dovetail need to be sharper for this to work better. Drilling the holes parallel and perpendicular is essential. Possibly a stronger spring. Maybe even afkat spring in between the guide rods would be better.
The problem I had was the top loose piece is too wobly and the platter comes off too easily. Make the guide rods longer like the top one and glue them into the top loose part would help. Also making the the circular part the full size of the mirtiss and then cutting off the sides will give you more grip.
I need to experiment some more because I'm turning larger work now and don't really like using wire like a picture us hung.

Tom, I like the idea of a cleat and have thought about making one, it would be simple to make and would work.

John, I have thought about something very similar to this. I thought about a locking longworth type chuck that would fit in the recess of the foot with jaws kind of like a chuck and lock in place and have a bolt type hanger that could be put in the wall and the recess piece slide over it. My idea works very similar to what you posted.
I don’t think I’ll make enough like this to make it worth while but I do plan on drawing something up.

 

[David Wyke]

I like your idea. A simple groove around the inside foot would let them turn it on the wall for the best view. A Technatool dovetail tool would work.
View attachment 77873

Phil, that would work but I usually cut mine with a skew or modified spindle gouge.

 

[David Wyke]

I've used keyhole router bits to hang fairly heavy wooden things flat against a wall, like a picture frame.
Either drill a hole or plunge then cut a short slot. But seems like a shame to cut into the foot/bottom of a bowl or platter though, unless it was destined to live there forever. Ok for heavy picture frames. Put a screw in the wall. Very secure.

I made this for my shop and mounted it with a routed keyhole. Truthful.

View attachment 77877
One keyhole would not allow rotating, of course.

There are some wire solutions but most are obnoxious. This is one the least objectionable I found, but I'm not wild about it either:

Medium Size Bowl Hanger, Plate Hanger, Platter Hanger, Bowl Wall Display, Plate Wall Hanger, Bowl Wall Hanger, Bowl Wall Hanger - Etsy

This Wall Decor item by Icanhangit has 328 favorites from Etsy shoppers. Ships from Marion, MA. Listed on Jul 26, 2025

www.etsy.com

View attachment 77876
Shouldn't damage the bowl, though.
Or search for 'wall bowl hanger' or 'wall bowl display' on Amazon.

I'd be inclined to suggest making a bracket with two or more support arms the right size, maybe black - rather see that than wire.

I use these tablet stands to display things on tables - something could be made to fit a bowl. But with a similar design a bowl would have to lean back a bit.

View attachment 77874

There are versions that grip on both top and bottom. Have to custom make one for a bowl mounted vertically.

Maybe visit a museum and find out how they display non-picture things on walls.

Maybe go for an incantation....

JKJ

John,I plan on doing a quick search to see what is out there. I have some more ideas it not sure they are worth the effort at this time.

 

[David Wyke]

View attachment 77878
This is some plate stands that I made for displaying platters on a shelf, but the idea could possibly be easily adapted to wall hanging by replacing the central piece with a longer one piece upright that could have the means to hang on the wall. The top could be supplied with a straight shaft and an end like the two bottom supports.

Thanks Don, now you have given me some ideas for platter and bowl holders to make for table top display!!

 

[David Wyke]

A circular French cleat just as you describe is exactly what I thought of as well. Try to keep the corresponding disc as large in diameter that will fit into the foot. And make sure the dovetail angle is more accute by a few degrees than what the typical turner would make for chucking purposes, to make sure there is a safety factor to the dovetail shape to keep the bowl from somehow hopping off the wall mounted cleat. By that I mean, if you have dovetail jaws, like Vicmarc, add a couple-few degrees to the dovetail shape of bowl and cleat.

And I would make a wider contact width on the bowl foot. You said you make a 1/8" wide contact patch. I'd boost the foot width to at least 1/2" wide contact patch, which means your tapered down foot width at the bowl shell will be about 1/4" to 3/8". That's not a lot of mass to hold the cantilevered weight stress of the bowl on its mating hanger, especially if the bowl weighs more than a cereal bowl-sized dimension, you don't want it to crack at the end grain area of the foot. A 16-18" bowl, there's real weight there. If this bowl is wall art more than a worker, hardly anyone will ever see the foot anyway to criticize its beefier foot. (Non-turners would never question the foot anyway.)

And remember, circles of different diameters will only touch at one point, so all the weight stress will bear on the bowl foot at a point, not a length. Instead of a full circle, smaller diameter cleat, I would make the cleat of the same nesting dovetail diameter, then cut that cleat to a bit less that 1/2 the radius. This way the bowl will fit over the cleat, but the bowl and cleat will be in full contact for the circumference of the cleat, distributing the weight of the bowl over a greater circumference of the bowl foot.

Phew, that was a mouthful!

Steve, all good points and things I have considered. I just need to decided how much time and effort I want to put into it.

 

[John K Jordan]

I like your idea. A simple groove around the inside foot would let them turn it on the wall for the best view. A Technatool dovetail tool would work.
View attachment 77873

Phil, that would work but I usually cut mine with a skew or modified spindle gouge.

Just to throw this out in case anyone is interested: I made this a long time ago for making recesses - I got frustrated making recesses, with or without a slight dovetail, since sometimes the live center I use is in the way.

Ground from an old tool with a CBN wheel with square edges. (I have a box of old tools people gave me, ready to grind as the mood strikes) Could easily have a slighly more angled dovetail but little or none is enough. Due to the way I like to work, I want a very narrow flat-bottomed groove, just wide enough for Nova 50mm jaws.

This should function much like the one Phil showed (but it didn't cost anything)



JKJ

 

[Richard Coers]

Google knows all. https://www.displaybuddie.com/the-foolproof-way-to-hang-bowls-on-walls/

 

[Jim Reynolds]

I’ve been pondering this off and on for most of the day. Finally, after a delightful fish taco dinner from my son-in-law, I tumbled to the idea of a groove/shadow line at the foot / base and a loop of string. Loop the string on itself, place in the groove, take out the tension, hang the loose end on a hook on the wall. If you used fishing line it would be nearly invisible.

This is the product of my imagination. I have not tested this technique.

 

[hockenbery]

If you have the thickness a key hole router bit will cut a hanging slot
You only need a bit over half the circle cut in for securely hanging a bowl.
This lets you control how the grain will orient.

Lots of folks do this on platters

 

[David Wyke]

If you have the thickness a key hole router bit will cut a hanging slot
You only need a bit over half the circle cut in for securely hanging a bowl.
This lets you control how the grain will orient.

Lots of folks do this on platters

I have a key hole bit and several routers I have used to hang other wooden items. Most of the time I have used a French cleat for heave items. I may give that a try.

 

[David Wyke]

Just to throw this out in case anyone is interested: I made this a long time ago for making recesses - I got frustrated making recesses, with or without a slight dovetail, since sometimes the live center I use is in the way.

Ground from an old tool with a CBN wheel with square edges. (I have a box of old tools people gave me, ready to grind as the mood strikes) Could easily have a slighly more angled dovetail but little or none is enough. Due to the way I like to work, I want a very narrow flat-bottomed groove, just wide enough for Nova 50mm jaws.

This should function much like the one Phil showed (but it didn't cost anything)

View attachment 77885 View attachment 77886

JKJ

Thought about making one of those in the past and have the steel to do it. I just don’t use that many mortise except for platters.

 

[David Wyke]

I experimented with this idea for platters. It's basically a spring loaded dovetail. You put the platter over the top portion and push down. Then when you push the platter flat against the wall and release the spring pushes these apart and hold it. To get it off simply push down on the platter and pull it away. My dovetail need to be sharper for this to work better. Drilling the holes parallel and perpendicular is essential. Possibly a stronger spring. Maybe even afkat spring in between the guide rods would be better.
The problem I had was the top loose piece is too wobly and the platter comes off too easily. Make the guide rods longer like the top one and glue them into the top loose part would help. Also making the the circular part the full size of the mirtiss and then cutting off the sides will give you more grip.
I need to experiment some more because I'm turning larger work now and don't really like using wire like a picture us hung.

John, I really like this design and as I said was thinking about something similar. Have you thought about using a small turnbuckle instead of a spring?
I have seen small turnbuckles but unable to find online. This is the style I was thinking about and thought I could cut the bolt part in half, cut off the hook and eye and expand it to tighten up the dovetail cleat.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

A very simple idea, consider using a figure eight table top fastener. Make the foot "rim" a bit broader and recess the fastener. May want to cover the foot with felt to prevent scratching the wall.

 

[john lucas]

Don't know how you would tighten the turnbuckle with the bowl in place on the cleat. That's why I used the spring. I used my system but my V on the dovetail was too blunt and the platters could be pulled off too easily. That's why I think if you turn a disc just barely smaller than your recess in the bowl and then cut off the sides of the disc you have a contact area of probably 60% . Then if the dovetail is more acute it would give a much more solid grip.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

Don't know how you would tighten the turnbuckle with the bowl in place on the cleat. That's why I used the spring. I used my system but my V on the dovetail was too blunt and the platters could be pulled off too easily. That's why I think if you turn a disc just barely smaller than your recess in the bowl and then cut off the sides of the disc you have a contact area of probably 60% . Then if the dovetail is more acute it would give a much more solid grip.

This would appear to be the best method presented here. The way I see it is the cleat being 1/8th to 1/4" deeper than the mortise and that would make the piece appear to float on the wall, while still allowing the piece to be rotated for the best effect.

 

[DON FRANK]

I love johns idea. I will probably try that.
In the past i have just used a dovetail and that works fine. I try to deepen the dovetail so there is an actual groove that is 1/4" deep instead of just a dovetail. That way you can use a big headed roofing nail in the wall and it's really secure.

 

[Webb Willmott]

Why not turn a disc with a keyhole and put a drop of hot glue on it to hold it in place. Should you decide to take it down, a little force will pop the disc off.

 

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Here's one that is solid and can be changed to a size that will work for any size turning.