• Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details)
  • Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Paul May for "Checkerboard (ver 3.0)" being selected as Turning of the Week for March 25, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Is he a "sharp guy with dull tools"...or the other way around...?"

Joined
Nov 4, 2018
Messages
841
Likes
935
Location
Penrose, NC
The referenced "he"...being ME, so you don't think I am picking on anyone else.:D

Has anyone here actually owned and used the 3 most talked about sharpening systems of late?

Those being:

1. Low speed bench grinder with CBN wheels

2. Sorby Pro Edge

3. Tormek

My observations/biases are that the CBN method is very popular in that it has been touted as the longest lasting, no change in diameter form of grinder based sharpening. But, my questions come from that exposure/experience - because I find the wheels do not maintain their "texture" or surface profile for long at all after you mount and begin to use them. Thus they start very aggressive - and rather quickly begin to become smother, and mores as they are used. Not convinced....tho I own 2 grinders with CBN, I am interested in what the other methods offer.

If so, what do YOU see as advantages/disadvantages? Cost aside....because Tormek wins the race to the "pulse-quickening-purchase-price" finish line :)....

Thanks for any opinion/input.
 
Joined
Mar 19, 2016
Messages
1,174
Likes
1,268
Location
Haubstadt, Indiana
I have the Sorby and CBN wheels. I did have the Jet knock off (has since died) of the Tormek. Starting with the Jet it would produce a very nice edge. However it taks time and is nowhere ideal for changing the profile. It just doesn’t fit for me. The CBN wheels do get smoother as with use. I have the 180 and 80 grit on a 1/2 hp Rikon. However they still sharpen for years. They do load ups, but you can clean them ever so often using WD40 and a stye wire brush (info from Ken Rizza site) and that helps. The Sorby you can put a fresh belt on. I mainly use 120 and 220 belts. I do use the 600 on my Dway beading tools. I also have a second grinder (woodcraft no name) that has a CBN 180 grit and a white friable wheel. I use the white wheel for reshaping.

There seem to be those that say you need a 600 grit CBN for those final cuts, I just don’t think it is worth it. I sharpen all my gouges using the Hanes Vector jig and CBN wheels. I would want to go back (and won’t) to the various-grind. I can sharpen my gouges to within an inch of the flute, where the various-grind and proedge you have several inches of flute left and are unable to locate the gouge properly. I use the Proedge for all my scrapers, spindle roughing gouges and parting tools and this specialty carbon tools. It is quick and easy to use and for those tools does a nice job.

If I only had one system it would be CBN wheels with the Robo Rest and Vector jig . The Sorby Proedge is just a nice addition. I would never go to the Tormek because of speed of sharpening.

68D2CFBE-9517-461F-8FAA-EA0D6AA968FA_1_201_a.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jun 6, 2018
Messages
1,948
Likes
996
Location
La Grange, IL
I started with a Tormek, but sold it to go CBN. Tormek puts on a nice edge and can be used on high carbon steel, but it is too sle when reforming an edge or shaping a tool. I don't miss the wet set up/clean up, either.

I noticed the same phenomenon with my CBN wheels (180 & 600). Woodturners Wonders told me that was normal break in if you will. The wheels seem to have settled down with regard to that loss of texture.
 
Joined
Aug 8, 2018
Messages
16
Likes
11
Location
Hainesville, IL
I started with a regular grinder, because I already had it. Considered a slow speed grinder, and opted for the Tormek, which I still use. The CBNs were available when I bought the Tormek, but have become a lot more popular since then.
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
5,435
Likes
2,792
Location
Eugene, OR
I heard Stuart Batty comment once that a CBN wheel is good for about 5 years of production turning before it is time to replace it. I will agree with that. I had one that was worn down to that point, and it would leave a beautifully polished bevel, but it took a while to get there. My preference for the grits are 180 and 600. I do have a 1000 grit and do need to get that back out, or on, and see what kinds of differences it makes. The 180 is sufficient for just about any sharpening you will need for 90+% of the turning you will ever do. The exceptions are for skews, which should always be honed, and for some fine finish cuts in difficult woods. You can hand hone your edges, but that never seemed to do what the edge straight off the wheel would do. That could be 'operator error' in my case. If I am turning some rather soft punky big leaf maple and the 180 isn't cutting as clean as I want, the 600 grit edge will clean it up a lot. The 180 also leaves an excellent burr on my scrapers, both standard and NRS, for heavy stock removal on bowl blanks and for shear scraping. I just picked up some 600 grit honing cards to try and see what kind of burr that will leave on my scrapers for the shear scraping and even on the NRS, mostly to compare to the burnished burr. I figure if I hone sideways, that is almost like a light burnishing.

I have no experience with the Sorby Pro Edge. Just didn't see it being any better than what I already had. I do have a heavy duty Jet Belt sander that has 36 grit belts if I need to do any serious shaping of a tool.

I do have a Tormek, maybe 25 years old. Only thing I use it for is honing my skew chisels. I did pick up a set of carving chisels, and will be using it for them. I did find the water bath to be a bother. Since they now have diamond wheels for them, I might have to get one to see how it works. Water not necessary, but metal dust can be a problem, same as with the CBN wheels.

Some time, I want to add a good water stone. Mostly for my kitchen knives. However, I wonder why there isn't a 1000 grit/6000 grit diamond stone available. You wouldn't have to soak the stones any more. I don't have the need for one more than once or maybe twice a week and don't want to go through having to soak the stone for a while before using, and/or having to keep it in water all the time....

Kind of the same when trying to sharpen inside curve bevels. I can see the necessity of numerous radii wheels/bits/honing wheels for those strange curves surfaces, like the flutes of gouges....

robo hippy
 
Joined
Aug 6, 2009
Messages
693
Likes
497
Location
Lummi Island, WA
I heard Stuart Batty comment once that a CBN wheel is good for about 5 years of production turning before it is time to replace it.
That may be true for production turners, but my 180 / 80 grit D-Way wheels first installed nearly a decade ago are still going strong with regular use. I was told to expect them to be pretty aggressive when new, but that they would settle in with use. That's been my experience. I've cleaned them a few times over the years, and the 180 probably cuts more like a 400 by now. The 80 grit does any shaping I need and handles most scrapers well - its probably cutting more like the 180 did when new.
The thing is, They get less than 15 seconds of use at a time - just touching up an edge is 99% of what I do. Since my tools last a very long time, a new grind on a new tool doesn't happen very often.
 

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
8,321
Likes
3,576
Location
Cookeville, TN
I don't have the Sorby but do have 2 belt sanders and have used both to sharpen tools. I also own a Tormek but don'thave thier gouge sharpening jig, I rigged up a way to do my bowl gouge with the Wolverine jig. I would show you but I gave that away when I was done with it. I sharpen most of the time on my slow speed grinder with 350 grit CBN wheel.
Here is what I found for my way of doing things. The belt sander has several advantages. 1st is being able to change belts very rapidly so I can rough shape a tool with 60 grit and then switch to any grit up 1000 and even a strop to do any final sharpening. Typically I leave a 600 grit belt on it and just touch up a few tools on that. The downside. The belts don't last long. I do use the blue ceramic belts but this is a 1" sander I got from Lee Valley. It comes as sort of kit and you supply the motor and switch. I did have to jury rig a system to hold my Wolverine jig when I was testing this system for my needs. The belts aren't that expensive but probably less expensive than Soryby's however there belts are wider so probably last longer. I love to use it to rough shape tools. It runs cooler so doesn't heat the metal as bad. Overheating my HSS tools is simply not a problem but it does get warm on your fingers which is why i like to use the belt vs my old gray wheel grinder with a course wheel,
The Tormek for me was a real dissapointment for lathe tools. The tools groove the wheel bad which then makes it useless for sharpening my hand planes and chisels until I flatten the wheel again. That takes time and of course limits the life of the wheel. Also the price of all their jigs just make it cost prohibitive for me. I should say I bought this thing at pawn shop for $200 plus tax or I still wouldn't have one. I don't have running water in my shop so have to remember to bring water out there each time I want to use the tool. I do love the strop wheel and I use it all the time to sharpen my hand chisels, kitchen knives and planer and jointer blades. If you dedicate it to turning and put a diamond wheel like Glen Lucas does im sure it's an excellent machine. But then that defeats the use of sharpening my plane blades. However you don't need water. Ken Rizza with Woodturnerswonders also sells a 1000 grit CBN wheel for the Tormek. That might be in my future but not yet.
I switched from Blue aluminum Oxide wheels on my slow speed grinder to 180 and 360 grit CBN wheels. Man what a difference. You never have to true them up, they don't groove and they run so smooth that sharpening is a pure joy. My 180 grit wheel is maybe 7 years old now and still works just fine. the 350 is about 3 years and stills works great. If you coat these with a quick swipe of Ken's Slick Stick you can grind any metal, even soft metals on these wheels. The 180 raises a good burr on scrapers. It's pretty slow to rough out or change the shape of a tools but you can do it with patience. I find the 350 wheel creates an edge that lasts longer. I am thinking of going to the 600. I had read in an article in the English magazine Woodturning that a more polished edge with hold a sharp edge longer. When I started using the belt sander I discovered this was true. So I was really excited to get the 350 grit CBN wheel and it does seem to make my edges last longer.
I think for the money the slow speed grinder and 1 or two CBN wheels with a sharpening system like the Kodiak that Ken sells is the way to go. It's almost fool proof for beginners and has lots of features that pros will like. I had modified my Oneway system with permanent settings for the V arm after I got the CBN wheels because nothing wears down. The Kodiak system incorporates this idea along with some other easy to use lock down angles.
 
Joined
Feb 8, 2021
Messages
230
Likes
102
Location
Vancouver,WA
220/600 mega square CBN wheels & Wolverine, Varigrind 1 is what I started with several months ago and I've been very happy with the decision. The 600 puts a fresh edge on quickly without wearing away expensive steel.

I'll probably add an 80grit wheel for shaping my own tools and grinding steel sold in blank form. Thompson scrapers, for example.

Never used a Pro Edge but many seem to like it. I wanted something common to turners and turners in my area to deal with my learning curve / inexperience and that was absolutely the right choice.
 
Joined
Feb 26, 2019
Messages
1,813
Likes
1,415
Location
Lebanon, Missouri
I use a Grizzly tormek knockoff with tormek jigs, and an 8” slow speed grinder with norton blue wheels, 46 & 80 grit, and use the tormek jigs, really just the svd-86 gouge jig and tormek bench grinder tool arm. I use a 3 bevel grind on all gouges. The heel and next bevel are done on the bench grinder, 46 gr, then move to the wet stone for sharpening/resharpening the final bevel, which can be 0.020” to 1/8” wide. The wet grinder takes no time at all with small bevels, and removes very little steel. I sharpen all scrapers, skews, roughing gouges on the 80gr wheel with a platform, then hone the edge.

I dont rely on the dry wheels to get an edge, only remove steel, so I’m not as concerned about their condition. I got a very good deal on several new 8” wheels a while back, so no need to change. I can still use the alox wheels for non turning related tasks as well.

Folks make a big deal about wheels reducing in size. I dont see it as an issue. I change the tool bar or platform distance to stone anyway, depending on the tool/grind, so I have to reset it anyway.

I had the wet grinder when I started turning, so I wanted to use it. I learned quickly about the slow steel removal and opted to use the tormek jigs on the dry grinder for steel removal, and kind of copied Michelson’s bevel strategy for all gouges.

I have used a wolverine/varigrind jig with cbn wheels that my club has. I dont like the bevel shape, ie sharper wings, vs what the tormek jig gives me. I struggle a bit with the varigrind, simply because I dont use it much. With more use I’m sure I could handle it just as well as the tormek jig.

The advantages of cbn are nullified a lot with how I do things. Changing wheel dia is meaningless to me, I dont remove any more steel per resharpening event, I can grind any steel I want. I do have to contend with wheel dust when dressing the wheels, which is less often due to my method.

Which way to go is not a straight line answer. Should a new turner plop down the $ for cbn if they dont even know if turning is their thing? Dont think so. An experienced turner/sharpener needs to make the decision based on their criteria, because not everyone will perceive all the variables the same. Hypothetically, if I lost all my grinders and jigs, I would replace them with an 8” slow grinder with cbn, and use a platform on one side and a tormek tool arm and jig on the other for gouges. I think. What to do about rough grinding new tools? Might need a low grit alox wheel on another grinder for that.
 

Roger Wiegand

Beta Tester
Joined
Nov 27, 2018
Messages
789
Likes
914
Location
Wayland, MA
Website
www.carouselorgan.com
Been using 180 grit CBN wheels for years now (one with a platform and one for my bowl gouge), and a diamond slip stone for honing. Don't currently feel a need for anything different. On the rare occasions when I need to do a major reshaping of a tool I'll get out one of my coarse AlOx wheels. This has happened maybe once in the last three years, so not enough to worry about. I hone maybe 10-15 times between trips to the grinder, it's way faster and gives a better edge.

I have set up a leather power stropping wheel for my carving tools, I haven't yet had to take one to a grinder, so am not sure what I'll do if/when that time comes. Haven't tried the turning tools on it; I suspect the convex bevel that develops over time wouldn't be good.

Planes/chisels get sharpened on water stones; again they never need to see a grinder.
 
Joined
Jan 18, 2020
Messages
124
Likes
103
Location
Bath, Maine
I've got a 180 CBN (forgot where I got it from). I know that there's several places to get these; are they all the same? Is one better than another? I need to get an 80 soon.
 

RichColvin

Super Moderator
Staff member
OTI Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2016
Messages
667
Likes
497
Location
Marysville, OH
Website
www.colvintools.com
I use the Tormek system and have since 2003. I like that it doesn’t throw filings into the air like systems which don’t use water. I also like that it doesn’t grind away much metal so my tools last longer. And I am not a production turner so the slightly extra time to sharpen is not an issue to me.

The diamond grinding wheels make a real difference.
  1. they don’t change shape when sharpening tools like gouges,
  2. they don’t change diameter with use,
  3. the low grit one really reshapes tools quickly, and
  4. they last longer than than the traditional grindstones.
I also sharpen loads of other stuff, so I find the Tormek a really great platform.
 
Joined
Apr 20, 2006
Messages
1,265
Likes
992
Location
Erie, PA
My personal grinder is a big Delta slow speed grinder with 1 1/2" CBN 80 and 180 wheels. Vector jig under the 180 and a Robo Rest under the 80 CBN. There are 2 slow speed grinders for others to use one with 2 CBN wheels a 180 and a 300 and the other grinder has a 180 CBN and a white stone. I also have the Tormek there if anyone wants to use it so far no one has used it. Nick Agar made me set it up to hone my tools and I use it for that sometimes. I have had the 1 1/2 180 CBN for at least 10 years and it is still like brand new and I at least contribute some of that to the fact that I basically only use Thompson tools and they do stay sharper longer (no debate on that everyone should find that out for themselves).
 

RichColvin

Super Moderator
Staff member
OTI Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2016
Messages
667
Likes
497
Location
Marysville, OH
Website
www.colvintools.com
@RichColvin are they tormek diamond wheels? Use dry? Aren’t there some other branded cbn wheels available?

I may go the diamond or cbn route for the Grizz wet grinder for the next wheel replacement.
Yes, they are Tormek wheels. They can be used dry, but water is recommended.

Also, the side can be used to give a flat grind in addition to the edge which gives a hollow grind.
 
Joined
Nov 4, 2018
Messages
841
Likes
935
Location
Penrose, NC
So, it looks like most of us use CBN, with a few using a Tormek and even a couple of us using both. I know each system ( even the Sorby) has perceived advantages...but it appears this is another of those " whatever works for you" aspects of turning.
You DO know what this means don't you? It means that I will have to set up a Tormek now, next to my 2 CBN equipped grinders and the Sorby Pro Edge - so I can figure out what I like.....:rolleyes::D
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2010
Messages
282
Likes
196
Location
McKinney,Texas
One other consideration: As I understand it only CBN or diamond is hard enough to cut the eta carbides that are formed in the more exotic steels we now use in wood turning (M4,M42, PM42,A11, CPM10V) to name a few. Friable wheels and sandpaper erode the FE from around the eta carbides then rip them out leaving only FE and unsharpened carbides on the cutting edges. M2 steel (Sorby) will sharpen acceptably with belts and rocks but you can still get a better edge with CBN.
 
Joined
Nov 4, 2018
Messages
841
Likes
935
Location
Penrose, NC
And there are the proponents of diamond wheels ( Tormek) over the CBN wheels. Each camp has their reasons and - I am not fixated on one or the other, so - I listen and want to experiment.
I can relate one experience that occurred last weekend tho. I spent 2 days with Nick Agar in a class. He brought his Tormek, and set it up next to out CBN wheeled low speed grinder. I handed him 2 identical gouges and asked him to give me his best sharpening on the Tormek and the CBN. Without question...the Tormek sharpened gouge was not only sharper...but did not need re-sharpening for the rest of the class..... The CBN sharpened one did. When I talked to Nick about it he was not anti-CBN, tho he did explain that the CBN - turning toward the tool raises a burr. He did not like the burr on a gouge. He likened the way the Tormek sharpens to more of the kind of sharpness that wood carvers strive for on their tools. A clean, extremely sharp edge, which - without the burrs - offers less resistance in cutting the wood.

And - there are many of us I am thinking - that wonder if this is even important in the grand scheme. All I can say is that the cuts I could make with the Tormek sharpened tool were the smoothest, and even shiny - tho not due to bruised or compressed fibers. So, it appears form that very brief exposure tot he Tormek - that yes it is a lower sharpening process. However, it keeps that edge much longer than the one which the CBN produced -

Again, not standing flat footed on ANY method being the "only" way to do it. Just sharing what I saw and felt, and experienced. And knowing my wallet will likely vomit out the money to at least give the Tormek a try in my grinder line-up. It's great to have choices...but for the simple mindedness I normally prefer in these matters...these choices can produce a migraine in my thinkin' gizzard....
 
Joined
Nov 4, 2018
Messages
841
Likes
935
Location
Penrose, NC
@RichColvin are they tormek diamond wheels? Use dry? Aren’t there some other branded cbn wheels available?

I may go the diamond or cbn route for the Grizz wet grinder for the next wheel replacement.
Doug I know that Ken @ Woodturner's Wonders offers CBN wheels for Tormek.
 
Joined
Nov 4, 2018
Messages
841
Likes
935
Location
Penrose, NC
I have always wondered about the direction of the wheel rotation. Why toward the tool rather than away from the tool?
It was the first question I asked about the CBN grinder set up. I don't remember getting any real answers. Maybe someone here can contribute....

I did watch a demo at the last Klingspor Extravaganza - which is an annual woodworking show put on by Klinspor and all of their vendors are there - and a fella was demonstrating how he sharpens. He used a low speed grinder - turned around such tha the wheels rotated away from him, and he used the Tormek jigs. Was interesting. I did not know enough to form an opinion about the merits of his methods, but did find it interesting.
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
5,435
Likes
2,792
Location
Eugene, OR
Well, you can sharpen carbide on CBN wheels, but it is very slow, and it does shorten the life of your CBN wheel. Diamond can only be used at slow speeds because any heat destroys the diamonds.

As for sharpening with the wheel rotating into or away from the edge, both work. Both also leave a burr. Sharpening on a 1000 grit wheel still leaves a burr. That burr needs to be honed off. That is some thing that is used for skews, but generally not on gouges. There are some that prefer to sharpen their scrapers up side down because that burr is supposed to be sharper. I am not sure about it. I tried it a couple of times and didn't notice any difference other than the up side down burr was much weaker than the right side up burr.

I think the discussion about finer grit and honed, compared to coarser grit and not honed is almost as old as turning itself. In my experience, the finer, 600 and 1000 grit edges on my gouges seems to dull more quickly than the 180 grit edge. I never hone my gouges. The fine edge advocates say that more teeth will cut longer, the coarse edge proponents say fewer teeth cut longer. Not sure there is a way to prove it. I have a spoon carving friend, and his products are 'off the tool' finish. His honing stick has 4 different honing compounds on them. So, no real winner as near as I can tell. As always, what ever wood you are cutting can be the biggest difference. Other than that, I prefer the M42 and V 10 metals for my gouges. I some times can finish cut 2 or 3 bowls with one sharpening, but I do all of my roughing with the Big Ugly tool. I can turn half a day with it before the burr needs to be touched up. The tantung is almost as hard as carbide.

robo hippy
 
Joined
Feb 26, 2019
Messages
1,813
Likes
1,415
Location
Lebanon, Missouri
A sharp edge breaks down as the metal particles are removed, through abrasion, leaving a jagged edge. Microscopically at 1st and eventually becomes visible. The more jagged an edge, ie the more coarse the stone, the faster it happens. eTheoretically a finely honed edge will last longer. The burr breaks off an unhoned edge leaving a jagged edge, which breaks down quicker vs no burr.

Remember I said theoretically. Its all true with plane irons, I’ve done the testing myself. Something with plane irons and depth of cut and the material - when rough planing stock with knots and hard grain, a super sharp edge (< 1 um) doesnt last much if any longer than a 25um edge. The edge gets deformed pretty quickly by the impacts with hard grain. With finish planing those super sharp edges last much longer - even through knots and such, because only a 0.001” or so is being removed, not breaking the edge down so quickly. No scientific evidence to prove it, but logic tells me even a fine cut in turning is a heavy cut in hand planing, plus the surface speed is far higher. The heavier edge load causes a fine edge to break down very quickly.

My experience in turning tells me a burred edge lasts as long or longer, usually leaves a good enough surface, and is faster to use throughout a cutting session, total time of cutting and resharpening. IMO there’s a balance point with wheel grit and burr size/ toughness. Between 80 to ~200 seems to provide a that balance - below 80 its gets very jagged and not as tough, plus a rougher cut. Above ~200 it starts getting too delicate and not as tough. Some situations can benefit from a finer edge to prevent tear out, and are typically limited short duration. A honed edge can be a plus in those situations.
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2010
Messages
282
Likes
196
Location
McKinney,Texas
It makes no difference in grinding wheel direction. Both directions will raise a burr. My dad called this burr a “wire edge” he would use a leather strap to hone one side then the other until this burr was gone.
no one that I’ve ever known has sharper knives than my Daddy had.

The Tormek system sharpens turning tools and most carving tools with the wheel turning toward the tool. Bench chisels plane, irons,jointers.scissors, and others are sharpened with the wheel turning away from the tool. No tool is sharp until the burr is honed away Tormek includes shaped leather strops and honing paste with their woodturners sharpening kit.
I have the Tormek and all the accouterments but I sharpen my turning tools with a Jet 8” slow speed grinder with a 600 grit CBN wheel. Robo has stated here that he uses his Tormek to strop his gouges for finish cuts. I can see where this is an advantage but have yet to try it.
Sharp is when both sides of the edge are polished. Gouges with polished flutes will take a finer edge and get sharper than gouges with unpolished flutes all things being equal.
 
Joined
Nov 4, 2018
Messages
841
Likes
935
Location
Penrose, NC
It makes no difference in grinding wheel direction. Both directions will raise a burr. My dad called this burr a “wire edge” he would use a leather strap to hone one side then the other until this burr was gone.
no one that I’ve ever known has sharper knives than my Daddy had.

The Tormek system sharpens turning tools and most carving tools with the wheel turning toward the tool. Bench chisels plane, irons,jointers.scissors, and others are sharpened with the wheel turning away from the tool. No tool is sharp until the burr is honed away Tormek includes shaped leather strops and honing paste with their woodturners sharpening kit.
I have the Tormek and all the accouterments but I sharpen my turning tools with a Jet 8” slow speed grinder with a 600 grit CBN wheel. Robo has stated here that he uses his Tormek to strop his gouges for finish cuts. I can see where this is an advantage but have yet to try it.
Sharp is when both sides of the edge are polished. Gouges with polished flutes will take a finer edge and get sharper than gouges with unpolished flutes all things being equal.
Here is a Tormek video, where Nick Agar sharpens a gouge. Notice the direction of the wheel rotation....

 
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
5,435
Likes
2,792
Location
Eugene, OR
Robo, take a look at the Shapton stones. They require only a spritz of water from a spray bottle.

Also, Tim, I want to mention that going CBN does not preclude using Tormek jigs and that Tormek and Wolverine jigs can be mounted on the same grinder.
I shouldn't have looked! I will have to give them a call. I guess any good supply place will raise more questions about what I am trying to do, and they have a lot of stuff! Worth looking at.


robo hippy
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2010
Messages
282
Likes
196
Location
McKinney,Texas
Here is a Tormek video, where Nick Agar sharpens a gouge. Notice the direction of the wheel rotation....
My response was about “raising a burr “ as it relates to the direction of the rotation of the grinding wheel And the necessity of the removal of this burr to reach sharpening Nirvana.
I will not be held responsible for what Mr. Agar does.
 
Joined
Nov 4, 2018
Messages
841
Likes
935
Location
Penrose, NC
My response was about “raising a burr “ as it relates to the direction of the rotation of the grinding wheel And the necessity of the removal of this burr to reach sharpening Nirvana.
I will not be held responsible for what Mr. Agar does.
Good call....I mean - Nick ran away from England for some reason. :D
 
Joined
Nov 4, 2018
Messages
841
Likes
935
Location
Penrose, NC
I shouldn't have looked! I will have to give them a call. I guess any good supply place will raise more questions about what I am trying to do, and they have a lot of stuff! Worth looking at.


robo hippy
Mark - I overlooked your comment that Reed quoted. Sorry. Yep, I actually have a couple of the "bases" that I can mount adjacent to the Wolverine bases. Part# BGM-100
 
Joined
Jun 6, 2018
Messages
1,948
Likes
996
Location
La Grange, IL
I shouldn't have looked! I will have to give them a call. I guess any good supply place will raise more questions about what I am trying to do, and they have a lot of stuff! Worth looking .

The Shapton ceramic stones I have are the professional series.

I really like that all you need to use them is a spray bottle of water. So instead of a sharpening pond I have a sharpening puddle: A baking sheet with four raised sides and a plastic cover. It doubles as a storage container.

It's so easy that it is very hard to make an excuse not to sharpen. Although I must say, my excuse making abilities (and I don't mean to brag here) are superlative.
 
Joined
Dec 15, 2017
Messages
255
Likes
140
Location
South Plainfield, NJ
The Shapton ceramic stones I have are the professional series.

I really like that all you need to use them is a spray bottle of water. So instead of a sharpening pond I have a sharpening puddle: A baking sheet with four raised sides and a plastic cover. It doubles as a storage container.

It's so easy that it is very hard to make an excuse not to sharpen. Although I must say, my excuse making abilities (and I don't mean to brag here) are superlative.
I love my Shapton professional stones, too. I've tried a lot of different sharpening systems, but really like the feel of the Shapton stones, over oil stones or other ways.
 

Roger Wiegand

Beta Tester
Joined
Nov 27, 2018
Messages
789
Likes
914
Location
Wayland, MA
Website
www.carouselorgan.com
The burr from the grinder comes right off when you hone the gouge-- or is at least replaced by a much smaller one. I"ve become a huge fan of using the diamond slipstore as I turn. Way faster and less disruptive to the turning process than going to the grinder, a very nice, sharp edge, and wastes almost no steel from the tool. What's not to like?
 
Back
Top