Scraping and shearing with a hook tool.
www.woodreview.com.au
I could have sworn she used a right angle bent tool with a flat edge on the outside. Definitely all hook tool on the inside.
Me too. I’d settle for a few days though or a week. From my perspective many of those tools make more sense than some western ones. They aren’t difficult to make either. I spent two and a half days on a Blacksmiths course many years ago and I’m confident I could make some. I might give it a try but it’s not easy getting seasoned end grain wood over here, 99% of it gets turned into boards no thicker than 4”.
It does not look like they are using preseasoned wood at the beginning of the video they are cutting discs off of a log then making the turning rounds, mounting them, roughing the inside and outside and putting them aside to dry. Notice the view of a distorted bowl with a true circle around it, which apparently is their method of showing the effects of drying. Yard trees or city trees usually are crooked and not suitable for sawing into lumber, but you don't need long straight logs for end grain bowls.
At the symposium in Tacoma Washington, which I drove my pickup truck to, and along with our MWA chandelier project I brought Allan Lacers adaptation of a western lathe to Japanese style. Allan did a rotation on it but I can't say how it went because I didn't get a chance the see it.
) but I’m guessing as it’s a trailing cut the tool would be pulled away from the turner?
I am not sure what a "trailing cut" means exactly, but the difficulty with hook tools is that you need to pivot the tool below the centre and cut in exactly the right spot, or it will catch every time. Different to a Western set-up, this means the bigger you go, the more difficult it becomes. 30 centimetres is already a very big challenge and results in a super steep tool angle, which is quite risky. Anyone who has tried some pole lathe turning knows how easy it is to catch, and a Japanese lathe is the same thing, but at high speed. During the first 6 months of studying, we had daily catches, and the tool broke every time, resulting in a piece of wood with or without a blade sticking out of it, flying straight at you. It is true that the tool is being pulled inwards, but different to gouges, the tool itself will break, and the jam chucks don't hold very well if you make a mistake. Also, the table surface makes sure the piece of wood bounces straight back at you in most cases. My record is 4 broken tools in a day, and one of my teachers is proud of having 7 in a day.I’ve seen bad catches on conventional lathes and the tool can become airborne. I’ve no scientific evidence but the tool seems to launch towards the turner. I would guess anywhere from inline with the lathe axis to thirty or even forty degrees towards the turner?
I’ve not seen any catches with traditional Japanese turning (not good for YouTube videos
Turning timber with the grain all in one direction, ie end grain, must also be more predictable than rotating end grain side grain in western turning?
woodenway.wordpress.com
Agreed, yes, thank you!
I have to admit, this is starting to fascinate me. Thank you for sharing this information... and anything else you'd want to pass along.
Those look good. I’ve never seen annealed HSS available for sale and was told by a machinist I worked with years ago that specialist equipment is required to harden HSS.
I believe it is SKH51 that I forge using a gas torch and a hammer.. can't say how "proper" our tempering is, but it works well for woodturning
sheffieldgaugeplate.co.uk
I was told it would be virtually impossible to correctly harden any type of High Speed Steel in a home workshop as specialist equipment is required.
www.jasonalonontoolmaker.com
