laguna 1524 with PWM catch and STOP!?

[Aaron Dodini]

Hi friends,
I'm new to turning and my laguna 1524 is my first lathe. I'm using carbide tools and I've been really surprised that while roughing out a square blank, usually around 500 rpm to 800 rpm, there are times when the tool will catch the corner of the blank and trap the tool at the tool rest. I'm at a 90 degree angle--meaning perfectly centered wth the tool to to blank. When that happens, the lathe stop turning entirely. Is this a safety feature of the PWM that the lathe has or am I breaking my lathe? I don't know if I'm doing something wrong or if the tool isn't sharp enough or the lathe isn't spinning fast enough, but it seems like the lathe shouldn't be stopping so easily. Any help or guidance on what I'm doing wrong or whether this is just a feature of the lathe is greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Aaron

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

When you turn a square to round it is easier to start from the back (tailstock side) instead of turning head on into the side. You will be turning a lot of air by going directly into the work and get lots of tear out too. If you push in just a little too much you have a catch or worse the blank pulls the too out of your hands.

By cutting in from the back the fiber of the wood is supported and reduces tear out

 

[Ron Solfest]

What Gerald said! Cutting straight in like it sounds you are doing beats you up too much along with being hard on everything. Took me a while to learn that years ago, but life got easier when I did.

Regarding your actual question, if you take a big enough cut you can stop any lathe, not that it’s recommended. If you are noticing the lathe slowing down you’re taking too big of cuts. Or in your case getting catches as the edges/air spin into your tool trying to grab too much wood.

It will be much safer, and easier on you and your tools if you start on the tailstock end and ride the bevel on wood as you shear off the ‘wings’ and round your blank. Recommend you watch a couple videos by some of the names you see on this forum regularly roughing out bowls.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

Just to be clear, is it possible the lathe is still turning, but the drive center is losing its grip in the stock?

 

[john lucas]

Some lathes with electronic variable speed will.shut down with a big catch. Dont know ifnits a design feature or simply something that happens with those devices. My Powermatic 3520A will not power up if there is something that blocks the turning ( such as accidentally turning on the lathe with an aftermarket index wheel. Dont ask how I know that.)
To answer your othe question. When roughing really out of round pieces I use a.pivoting cut. I anchor the tool.on the tool rest with my left hand. I have the tool handle against my body. I move my body so the tool cuts in an arc across the wood. Because I can move the tool.very controlled it never takes.too big of a bite. This works with bowl gouges or scrapers and is especially useful when roughing areas where the tool.only bits the wood once or twice per revolution. I will make a cut move the tool slightly and do another one. It has saved me a lot of hassle and reduced my shoulder pain that seems to be a norm for old.shoulders.

 

[Aaron Dodini]

Gentlemen, thank you so much. The Laguna folks confirmed what some of you have said--it's part of their electronics to stop the motor with big catches. It still has power, but it won't spin if it's caught or (and I know exactly how that happens, @john lucas ) the index wheel is still in place. They say it isn't hurting the motor. Which means I'm just not a very good turner yet!
I really appreciate your responses. My solution for now is to use my bandsaw and my round ripper to get a cleaner bowl blank to begin with and to always come from the tailstock and take smaller passes. I'm still trying to work on my stance and how to lock the handle against my hip and have more controlled passes. I'll keep practicing! I also think I might want to start using more traditional bowl gauges as opposed to the carbide scrapers, but I don't have a big space to work in and I'm not sure where I'd put a sharpening station.... Need to move out of my one car garage filled with bikes and balls and get a real shop! Baby steps--maybe I'll just figure out how to turn a decent bowl before telling my wife we need to move.
Thanks all!

 

[Aaron Dodini]

Just to be clear, is it possible the lathe is still turning, but the drive center is losing its grip in the stock?

That has also happened, Lou, but most of the time the lathe has stopped, not just the bowl blank.

 

[Aaron Dodini]

When you turn a square to round it is easier to start from the back (tailstock side) instead of turning head on into the side. You will be turning a lot of air by going directly into the work and get lots of tear out too. If you push in just a little too much you have a catch or worse the blank pulls the too out of your hands.

By cutting in from the back the fiber of the wood is supported and reduces tear out

Super helpful feedback, Gerald. Thank you!

 

[Aaron Dodini]

What Gerald said! Cutting straight in like it sounds you are doing beats you up too much along with being hard on everything. Took me a while to learn that years ago, but life got easier when I did.

Regarding your actual question, if you take a big enough cut you can stop any lathe, not that it’s recommended. If you are noticing the lathe slowing down you’re taking too big of cuts. Or in your case getting catches as the edges/air spin into your tool trying to grab too much wood.

It will be much safer, and easier on you and your tools if you start on the tailstock end and ride the bevel on wood as you shear off the ‘wings’ and round your blank. Recommend you watch a couple videos by some of the names you see on this forum regularly roughing out bowls.

Ron, thank you! I love the help and feedback!

 

[robo hippy]

Okay, first question, is this happening with spindles, bowls, or both? There is a tendency for bowls, since they are larger diameter, to cause more stalling on lathes than spindles. I use scrapers as my main tool for roughing out bowls. I like a scraper that has a small straight on the nose, maybe 1/4 inch or so, and then a 1/4 round profile to the left side. Using a square scraper just doesn't work for me, and I would expect it to want to dig in more. If you are using a square carbide scraper, that could be part of the problem. It could work better on the outside of the bowl for a plunge cut down the outside of the bowl to define that edge where a round one would want to bounce off rather than cut all the way down. On the inside, a round one would be better for making that inside curve shape.

I haven't met a lathe I couldn't stall, yet.... When roughing, I only use a 1 inch scraper. I have found them to be the most efficient tool for roughing out bowls. Look up my Scary Scrapers video on You Tube. Figuring out how much you can take off in one pass is part of the learning curve. Like a martial arts instructor used to say, 'Appetizer first, main course second.' I always start by nibbling off the uneven areas, then proceed to take heavier cuts once things are rounded out.

I use the nibble process for spindles as well. Since they are generally smaller diameter you won't get as much stalling as you do with bowls. Nibble down to proper diameter, and then if you need to remove bulk, you don't have corners to cause your tool to really dig in.

Scrapers are great roughing tools, but not so much for fine finish cuts, except when doing end grain turnings like boxes.

robo hippy

 

[Dean Center]

You might also have your tool rest too low. That would allow the corner of the blank to come down on top of your tool. For spindles, you want your tool edge to be above centerline. I suggest novices set their tool rest right at centerline, and then the tool will always be above it, right where you want it.

 

[Aaron Dodini]

You might also have your tool rest too low. That would allow the corner of the blank to come down on top of your tool. For spindles, you want your tool edge to be above centerline. I suggest novices set their tool rest right at centerline, and then the tool will always be above it, right where you want it.

So helpful! I tend to put the tool rest just BELOW center so that my tool is at center. I'll give your approach a shot! Thank you!!!

 

[Aaron Dodini]

Okay, first question, is this happening with spindles, bowls, or both? There is a tendency for bowls, since they are larger diameter, to cause more stalling on lathes than spindles. I use scrapers as my main tool for roughing out bowls. I like a scraper that has a small straight on the nose, maybe 1/4 inch or so, and then a 1/4 round profile to the left side. Using a square scraper just doesn't work for me, and I would expect it to want to dig in more. If you are using a square carbide scraper, that could be part of the problem. It could work better on the outside of the bowl for a plunge cut down the outside of the bowl to define that edge where a round one would want to bounce off rather than cut all the way down. On the inside, a round one would be better for making that inside curve shape.

I haven't met a lathe I couldn't stall, yet.... When roughing, I only use a 1 inch scraper. I have found them to be the most efficient tool for roughing out bowls. Look up my Scary Scrapers video on You Tube. Figuring out how much you can take off in one pass is part of the learning curve. Like a martial arts instructor used to say, 'Appetizer first, main course second.' I always start by nibbling off the uneven areas, then proceed to take heavier cuts once things are rounded out.

I use the nibble process for spindles as well. Since they are generally smaller diameter you won't get as much stalling as you do with bowls. Nibble down to proper diameter, and then if you need to remove bulk, you don't have corners to cause your tool to really dig in.

Scrapers are great roughing tools, but not so much for fine finish cuts, except when doing end grain turnings like boxes.

robo hippy

Thank you! It's good to know that what I'm doing is a common occurrence for newbies. I'll keep taking smaller bites at the "apple" and see how that goes. I really appreciate all the help! What a great community! 'll definitely check out your scary scrapers video.
Best,
Aaron

 

[Tom Lucas]

Your bandsaw is your friend. Use it as much as you can to round the blank. Build yourself a circle cutting jig for the bandsaw. Makes it quick and safe to get maximum diameter with no hard corners to beat you to death. Like others have said, start at the tailstock end. Make yourself a small truly round area. From there I use a gouge to push cut toward the headstock, riding the bevel as I expand off the rounded area. Depending on how much out of round, it'll likely take several passes to get it round. Many ways to do it, but you should be avoiding big catches. Also make sure your rest is as close as you can get it and keep moving it closer as you cut away the round. The big carbide round cutters (scrapers of sorts) are great for this task too because they stay sharp through the whole roughing process. But I prefer a 5/8" v-gouge.