I just received the set of bowl gouges from Craft USA with the Mahoney grind. This does not appear to be something that will be easy to maintain. I do have the Wolverine setup but do not fully understand the "double" bevel. Any suggestions on sharpening without ruining the geometry would be appreciated.
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Mahoney Grind
- Thread starter cwearing
- Start date
I just received the set of bowl gouges from Craft USA with the Mahoney grind. This does not appear to be something that will be easy to maintain. I do have the Wolverine setup but do not fully understand the "double" bevel. Any suggestions on sharpening without ruining the geometry would be appreciated.i have the same gouge and sharpening it is not a big deal. those are however grond freehand, but that's not my cup of tea.
i just had to play around with the vari jig and the angles to find the one that fit. i do the bottom bevel first, but you don't need to do that a lot, then try to find the set up for the small angle and scribe a line on the jig. it's easy
sascha
i just had to play around with the vari jig and the angles to find the one that fit. i do the bottom bevel first, but you don't need to do that a lot, then try to find the set up for the small angle and scribe a line on the jig. it's easy
sascha
Mahoney grind on oneway
I remember seeing in another forum someone suggest after getting the initial grind putting a small piece of wood into the arm where the varigrind rests. Then regrind and it will give you a nice repeatable double bevel. I haven't tried it so good luck.
I remember seeing in another forum someone suggest after getting the initial grind putting a small piece of wood into the arm where the varigrind rests. Then regrind and it will give you a nice repeatable double bevel. I haven't tried it so good luck.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
The small block works great. You can size it anyway you want to achieve the grind you want. I grind the main bevel and then pull the tool out of the Oneway Wolverine and grind my secondary bevel by hand. The secondary bevel is only there #1 to reduce the amount of steel you need to take off in the next sharpening which saves time, especially if you use diamond hones, and #2 to get some of the metal out of the way so you can reach into tighter areas or rub the bevel on steeper curves. It doesn't really matter what angle you choose.
I too, was puzzled by how to sharpen the Mahoney gouges. Since I'm not a handy guy and am definitely sharpening impaired I got a set of raptor tools from Craft Supplies. One is at a 45 degree and another at 50 degree and that solved the problem.
I do as John L. does. I use the vari and then free hand the second bevel. Like John said it is just for relief.
Odie
Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
I'll second that!
John Lucas has got it nailed!
The only purpose of the second bevel is to replace metal with air.....get it out of your way for better handling purposes.
ooc
Mike has a You Tube video about how he grinds his tools. It is really pretty simple. After trying it (I was lucky enough to do a 3 day Stewart and Allen Batty workshop) I still use it some, but prefer the swept back design. I am still experimenting with it though. I do like it better on the outside than I do on the inside of a bowl.
robo hippy
robo hippy