What worked for me....
Ruth Niles said:
Are you using green wood? If dry, is there any species easier to turn? I do a lot of spindle work for antique dealers and know I don't want them using OAK (I hate dried oak!) or hard maple.
Thanks,
Ruth
Hi Ruth!
Obviously, ripped 2x4 scraps are dry for learning to turn spindles (you could also substitute 2x2 poplar if you don't work with dimensional stuff). Low-end 2x4 stock is really cheap at big box home improvement stores, so buying a few budget sticks to use for spindle lessons won't break the bank. Look for the tightest grain SPF lumber you can find. The surface finish after turning won't be great, even with sharp tools, but the point is for the kids to learn to cut properly, including cutting 'downhill', roughing to a cylinder, making beads and coves, parting, etc. Spindle roughing gouges and the Spindlemaster tool are fairly safe at any level of experience....I'd recommend starting with these. Then move to spindle gouges and scrapers. (Leave the skew 'till later!)
We haven't worked with green blanks on the mini-lathe yet for my son to rough bowls and then have to take time to let them dry (In my opinion, there's not enough immediate gratification for kids when using green stock - using dry stock means that they can finish turning and move on to the sanding/finishing phases right away....). I think it's important that they have a product of their work to take away (and show other people!) immediately following the turning session - this is another reason why tops and honey dippers work well as beginning projects.
For practice bowls, I used
poplar for a number of reasons - it's fairly inexpensive, cuts well, you can get it in 8/4 ad 12/4 thicknesses, it sands and finishes well, and there are usually some subtle grain features that work OK (as to appearance) regardless of what the shape of the bowl turns out to be. Stay away from oak, maple, ash, and other really hard woods. I can tell you that walnut and cherry aren't too bad to turn when dry, although they're a bit expensive (especially at 8/4 or 12/4!) when used for practice bowls! For the first few practice bowls on the mini-lathe, we used a 3" faceplate and sheet metal screws with 3" thick poplar blanks (usually 5-7 inches diameter). This also makes the kids think about NOT turning too deep to hit the screws, and forces them to visualize bottom thickness and where the base has to be - all teaching/learning opportunities.
The downside of using dry wood is that things get a bit warm. To solve this, we set up a rule that as soon as the tool or shavings get your hands too hot, stop turning for a minute and shut down the lathe, clean off the lathe bed, tool rest, etc., look at what you've done, and see where you need to make the next cuts. This exercise builds some patience and an idea that your turnings should be planned and not "spontaneous"; usually the tool, etc. had cooled down enough during these 'clean and think' breaks for him to continue.
Hope this helps a bit!
Rob Wallace
BTW - I recently spent 5 days vacationing "in your backyard" (visiting in-laws) earlier this month catching bass, perch, and BIG bluegills in some of your local water holes (Peck's Pond and a few lakes at Hemlock Farms) - I really do miss the northeast, especially when I'm holding a fishing rod!