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Max bowl blank size for a woodworm screw?

Joined
Jul 12, 2025
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Location
Newberg, OR
I bought a Vicmarc VM150 chuck to use on my new 25” lathe. What is the maximum bowl blank size can I mount using the VM150’s woodworm screw? I.e. when should I switch to a faceplate or faceplate ring?
 
personally I only use the screw for platters and small pieces where I want to turn something inside the tenon before hollowing.

Large pieces I would do between centers.

I haven’t done really large pieces
Maybe a 1/2 dozen 20” bowls.
A couple 17” diameter hollow forms
Lots of 14-15” diameter natural edge bowls
 
Too, it depends on multiple factors. E.g. What are you turning. Is the wood in good condition or punky. Well balanced or irregular blank. Can you keep the tailstock engaged. If you feel it's precarious, change your plan.
That said I have turned 12 x 12 x 6 well balanced, solid wood with tailstock.

A suggestion when using a screw chuck, don't use electronic (or mechanical) braking.
 
Too, it depends on multiple factors. E.g. What are you turning. Is the wood in good condition or punky. Well balanced or irregular blank. Can you keep the tailstock engaged. If you feel it's precarious, change your plan.
That said I have turned 12 x 12 x 6 well balanced, solid wood with tailstock.

A suggestion when using a screw chuck, don't use electronic (or mechanical) braking.
For my first large-ish bowl I was starting out with a 12” x 3” block of a solid maple round that I picked up at Rocklers. (I just upgraded from a Jet 10-14 that I’ve used for the last 20+ years). It sounds like a woodworm screw is just fine, as long as I start with the tail stock.

Good advice on the electronic brake…

Thx
 
I think the lathe speed and balance for a given blank is more of an issue than the size. I've used a screw to turn lots of things from dry solid wood, some large. I do use tailstock support as appropriate. I almost never use a wormwood screw but live by the Glaser screw chuck, for several reasons.

glaser_screw_chuck.jpg glaser_screw_chuck_2.jpg
 
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I have used the same Nova woodworm screw for over 20 years. I have had 2 Oneway screws break and have never tried the Vicmarc screw as it looks to thin for me. I now always use the tailstock with the screw after having those Oneway screws break.
 
I never use a wood worm screw. I do have 2 5/8 inch forstner bits and drill a recess first and expand my Vicmarc chuck into that. Easier. Biggest I ever did was 22 inch diameter. I think I used the tailstock for that one. Most of the time, it is sufficient for blanks up to 14 inches, even 16 inch, but those don't sell for me. With any blanks under 14 inch, I never use the tailstock. That may be an "advanced" skill....

robo hippy
 
I have used the same Nova woodworm screw for over 20 years. I have had 2 Oneway screws break and have never tried the Vicmarc screw as it looks to thin for me. I now always use the tailstock with the screw after having those Oneway screws break.
I’ve used the Nova screw many times without issue, but my bowls were limited to the size of my old 10” lathe. The Vicmarc VM150 screw is long, and does seam thin for its size… it protrudes 1-3/8” beyond my standard jaws. Hope to try it out today
 
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The Vicmarc VM150 screw is long, and does seam thin for its size… it protrudes 1-3/8” beyond my standard jaws. Hope to try it out today

If too long for a shallow bowl or platter, it's common to limit the depth by shiming between the chuck and the wood with plywood disk(s). But you prob already know that.

Was needed on this platter.
platterB_front.jpg

The screw for the Glaser screw chuck also seems thin but is tough, hardened steel and machined with quite sharp threads, nothing like the fairly crude threads on my Nova wormwoods. I drill a 1/4" hole the diameter of the central shaft and screw in the chuck in by hand. Holds incredibly well.

JKJ
 
While the manufacturer (or their attorney) probably specifies the maximum size, I would say it boils down to the how solid is the particular piece of wood and your tolerance of pucker factor. Personally, 12 or 13" is about as large as I go with the wood that we get locally.
 
If too long for a shallow bowl or platter, it's common to limit the depth by shiming between the chuck and the wood with plywood disk(s). But you prob already know that.

Was needed on this platter.
View attachment 78660

The screw for the Glaser screw chuck also seems thin but is tough, hardened steel and machined with quite sharp threads, nothing like the fairly crude threads on my Nova wormwoods. I drill a 1/4" hole the diameter of the central shaft and screw in the chuck in by hand. Holds incredibly well.

JKJ
Nice looking platter!

Fortunately my blank is 3" thick, so the 1-3/8" X 5/16" hole I drilled should be easily be erased by the time I've finished the bowl.
 
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