Well, going back many years to when the blades had the cutting edge all on the outside of the bar, I had heard that people were experimenting with different nose profiles, so I did also. I tried bevel to the left, bevel to the right, and bevel square. It made no difference to the tracking abilities of the blade, and I mean absolutely zero. If you look at the blades and/or put them on one of the big plastic circle templates, the very tip of the blade goes straight rather than following the perfect arc of a circle. Best guess is that the blades are profiled, as in the top and bottom outside is rounded over on a belt sander before they are bent. Ask anyone who does metal bending, and there is no way to get enough pressure on the tip to get it to bend to that perfect arc. If they want to bend the perfect arc, then they bend several inches longer than the needed length, and snip off the straight part. This would make it difficult to profile the top and bottom of the blade. Because the last inch or two of the blade goes straight rather than following the perfect arc, the blade will always drift to the outside of the cut. The only other way to do it would be to take a torch to it and heat it up, then bend it to final shape. I would think that the metal cutting surface (you NEVER sharpen the top of the blade because the cutter is so thin) would come off/delaminate. The spear point is a Mike Mahoney idea. He does 'fishtail' as he cores, meaning he sweeps back and forth a bit to open up the kerf. I still prefer a square cutting edge. If the entire blade was a perfect arc, it would be a lot easier to core with.
I do have a video up on You Tube about using the McNaughton, Dale Bonnertz does too. Not sure if Mike Mahoney's video is up there or not.
robo hippy