Can you brainstorm a problem with me?
- Nice rosewood burl, one side flat, 8" wide, 13" long and 7" at deepest point
- Want to turn 2 bowls into flat side, burl side down, and stand on 3 or 4 turned ebonized legs into burl side
The one (scary) idea I have for mounting (on my PM3520):
- predrill leg holes (maybe angled) and use these as standoffs for mounting to plywood plate. perhaps use 3/8" brass threaded inserts inside leg holes, and threaded rod for mounting and adjusting. Re-use threaded inserts for eccentric turned legs. Or tap for 1/2" threaded rod and fill in for more modest legs.
- use large face plate and mount twice on plywood plate for two bowls
If you don't have any other ideas do you think this can work? Of course I would prototype it on a smaller scale and wear bullet proof vest, while turning at 30 rpm, with tail stock up as long as possible, or even all the way and sand off the nub inside.
- Nice rosewood burl, one side flat, 8" wide, 13" long and 7" at deepest point
- Want to turn 2 bowls into flat side, burl side down, and stand on 3 or 4 turned ebonized legs into burl side
The one (scary) idea I have for mounting (on my PM3520):
- predrill leg holes (maybe angled) and use these as standoffs for mounting to plywood plate. perhaps use 3/8" brass threaded inserts inside leg holes, and threaded rod for mounting and adjusting. Re-use threaded inserts for eccentric turned legs. Or tap for 1/2" threaded rod and fill in for more modest legs.
- use large face plate and mount twice on plywood plate for two bowls
If you don't have any other ideas do you think this can work? Of course I would prototype it on a smaller scale and wear bullet proof vest, while turning at 30 rpm, with tail stock up as long as possible, or even all the way and sand off the nub inside.