I just orded a Jet MIni however I plan to ultimately get a powermatic 3520 when I get my feet wet. I would appreciate advice on the best chuck which will work on the mini and yet be satisfactory for larger work on the PM. Also, any opinion on the best 1/2 dozen or so tools to start with. Thanks.
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Need chuck recomendation
- Thread starter HarveyC
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I can Recommend either the Supernova 2 or the Vicmarc VM100 scroll chucks. They will work well on either the mini lathe and a larger lathe.
There is 6 tools we recommend for beginners then there is a large range of tools to expand your range with depending on what you want to do.
25mm Roughing Gouge
12mm Spindle Gouge
12mm Bowl Gouge
25mm Rolled Edge Skew Chisel
Diamond Shape Parting Tool
30mm Sraper
these tools we recommend for starters.
Depending on what you are trying to do and because you are getting a mini lathe you may want to downsize a little bit, but do not go down too far, maybe one size only.
There is 6 tools we recommend for beginners then there is a large range of tools to expand your range with depending on what you want to do.
25mm Roughing Gouge
12mm Spindle Gouge
12mm Bowl Gouge
25mm Rolled Edge Skew Chisel
Diamond Shape Parting Tool
30mm Sraper
these tools we recommend for starters.
Depending on what you are trying to do and because you are getting a mini lathe you may want to downsize a little bit, but do not go down too far, maybe one size only.
That is a pretty good list of basic tools. Make sure you get high-speed steel tools.Jim Carroll said:
The Oneway Talon chuck is a good choice also and I know some guys that swear by Axminster chucks. If you stick with Oneway, Axminster, Nova, or Vicamrc you won't really make a bad choice. I would get a key chuck rather than one with two lever bars. For a minilathe I’d go with the Talon or Supernova2, size chucks. You can hold quite a lot with them. Hopefully you have someone who can show you the right way to cut a spigot for your chuck and how to mount the work properly. It will save you some time chasing turnings across the floor.
Jim Carroll said:
Jim,
Thanks for the list! Just what I was looking for
Are there particular brands / sets you recommend as well? There seems to be a *wide* range of prices associated with any of the lathe tools mention. Any particular thing to look for in selecting a set?
--eric (looking for that high quality bargin)
For tools, I would recommend staying at the low end of the price range. You will have to learn how to sharpen them and you can grind away expensive tools just as quickly as cheap ones. Do stick with high speed steel. Harbor Freight sells a set of 8 HSS tools for about $40, but no bowl gouge (and no, you can't use a spindle gouge for bowls).
As to chucks, I'll vote against the Axminster (although I own one) because it does not have replaceable inserts. The insert lets you use the chuck on a bigger lathe just by replacing the insert.
HTH
Graeme
As to chucks, I'll vote against the Axminster (although I own one) because it does not have replaceable inserts. The insert lets you use the chuck on a bigger lathe just by replacing the insert.
HTH
Graeme
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I can recommend the P&N tools as they are a good quality HSS, Then there is the Hamlet & Robert Sorby tools. All have an M3 rating .I am unsure what your equivilent is in the US Do not buy the cheap chinese tools as you are forever sharpening them and not doing enough turning.
Have a look around at a reasonable set. One problem I have found with sets is that they do not have all the tools you need or if they do they have some odd sizes. Buy the tools individually either handled or unhandled.
If you have a freind or club nearby you could get some tuition on making your own handles as this is a good first project using a roughing gouge, skew chisel,and parting tool. You are able to make the tools to suit your hands better, I have not come across a manufacturer that makes handles to suit everyone.
I have small hands and prefer a thinner handle through the middle section but most of the work I do is spindle turning so I have longer handles between 16-20" mostly for leverage and comfort.
You want to be able to grip the handle like a tennis racquet. Not too small that your fingers go around and dig into your hand and not too large that you feel uncomfortable and it feels like it is falling out of your hand.
Remember that the good tools are ground to a general purpose angle, set your grinder and jig to the same angle as the preground tool and you can duplicate this angle each time, once you are compitant in this and your turning then experiment with differant angles and shapes.
Have a look around at a reasonable set. One problem I have found with sets is that they do not have all the tools you need or if they do they have some odd sizes. Buy the tools individually either handled or unhandled.
If you have a freind or club nearby you could get some tuition on making your own handles as this is a good first project using a roughing gouge, skew chisel,and parting tool. You are able to make the tools to suit your hands better, I have not come across a manufacturer that makes handles to suit everyone.
I have small hands and prefer a thinner handle through the middle section but most of the work I do is spindle turning so I have longer handles between 16-20" mostly for leverage and comfort.
You want to be able to grip the handle like a tennis racquet. Not too small that your fingers go around and dig into your hand and not too large that you feel uncomfortable and it feels like it is falling out of your hand.
Remember that the good tools are ground to a general purpose angle, set your grinder and jig to the same angle as the preground tool and you can duplicate this angle each time, once you are compitant in this and your turning then experiment with differant angles and shapes.
Hi Harvey.
I got the Supernova 2 specifically because it uses a hex key rather than a geared one and because I have a small Nova and can interchange jaws. The Oneway's are great chucks and are preferred by most of the folks in my turning club over all others just for their quality of build and strength.
If you're looking for a chuck for your Delta and your new lathe, you will most likely be out of luck. Most larger lathes will have a larger spindle than your Delta and so you will require threaded inserts for each, which will be a pain to change back and forth. I'd suggest a nice, beefy chuck for your new lathe and a small, tommy bar style Nova or even Grizzly or PSI (I never thought they made workable stuff but reviews I've read say that they work pretty good) for the Delta.
Lastly, folks should be aware that all HSS steel is not the same. Bargain priced HSS tools may not have the quality metal or milling that higher end ones do. Just make sure you're getting nice stuff. You'll appreciate this in the long run.
Good luck,
dietrich
I got the Supernova 2 specifically because it uses a hex key rather than a geared one and because I have a small Nova and can interchange jaws. The Oneway's are great chucks and are preferred by most of the folks in my turning club over all others just for their quality of build and strength.
If you're looking for a chuck for your Delta and your new lathe, you will most likely be out of luck. Most larger lathes will have a larger spindle than your Delta and so you will require threaded inserts for each, which will be a pain to change back and forth. I'd suggest a nice, beefy chuck for your new lathe and a small, tommy bar style Nova or even Grizzly or PSI (I never thought they made workable stuff but reviews I've read say that they work pretty good) for the Delta.
Lastly, folks should be aware that all HSS steel is not the same. Bargain priced HSS tools may not have the quality metal or milling that higher end ones do. Just make sure you're getting nice stuff. You'll appreciate this in the long run.
Good luck,
dietrich
May I Suggest 2 Bowl Gouges
Hi,
Being a relatively new turner I had a moment of enlightenment not that long ago that might fit here. I would suggest two (2) bowl gouges (of whatever size you finally decide). Here's why...
I found myself having a real tough time making the transition from side to bottom of my bowls and couldn't seem to get a decent finish cut on bottoms . The reason was (please don't scoff) the angle of the bevel. The sharp angle worked great on the sides, but for the size and shape bowls I was turning it was geometrically impossible to rub that bevel on the bottom until almost to the center (or never). Therefore the recommendation for two bowl gouges... one with a grind for the sides and one for the bottom. Otherwise you must restrict the shape bowls you do or grind and regrind gouges so you have to by them by the dozen.
Hope this helps.
Rick
Hi,
Being a relatively new turner I had a moment of enlightenment not that long ago that might fit here. I would suggest two (2) bowl gouges (of whatever size you finally decide). Here's why...
I found myself having a real tough time making the transition from side to bottom of my bowls and couldn't seem to get a decent finish cut on bottoms . The reason was (please don't scoff) the angle of the bevel. The sharp angle worked great on the sides, but for the size and shape bowls I was turning it was geometrically impossible to rub that bevel on the bottom until almost to the center (or never). Therefore the recommendation for two bowl gouges... one with a grind for the sides and one for the bottom. Otherwise you must restrict the shape bowls you do or grind and regrind gouges so you have to by them by the dozen.
Hope this helps.
Rick
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Rick one of the problems you may be facing by having to use 2 different angle tools is you are going in a straight line from your point of entry to the centre.
I usually start on the centre line with the tool moving in an upwards arc then once I reach about the middle of the arc I strart rolling the tool over slightly more and finishing up in the centre of the bowl. Give this a try and see if it helps.
It also helps to keep a continous cut going, as I find by just going straight from the entry point to the centre you seem to have the cut then lose it then find it again so you seem to be making a lot of stop and starts and not getting a nice clean surface.
I usually start on the centre line with the tool moving in an upwards arc then once I reach about the middle of the arc I strart rolling the tool over slightly more and finishing up in the centre of the bowl. Give this a try and see if it helps.
It also helps to keep a continous cut going, as I find by just going straight from the entry point to the centre you seem to have the cut then lose it then find it again so you seem to be making a lot of stop and starts and not getting a nice clean surface.
I have the Talon it is a Great Chuck!
I started out on the $40 HSS set from HF and still use them!
Jim
I started out on the $40 HSS set from HF and still use them!
Jim
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