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need recommendation for rests

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Asking here for advice and guidance before spending more money.

I have been turning for a few weeks now and I want to do more :)

I am thinking about getting a curved rest to finish a bowl I have started. I am using an older lathe that uses a 7/8" diameter post.

post.jpg

so far, I have found the following 2 posts that I think will work
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Mer...=112805&Category_Code=lathes-acc-toolrst-mtrs

https://www.carbatec.com.au/modular-tool-rest-stem-7-8-rsb-l765-s22

So one of those (maybe?) and then find a curved rest that will fit the post? right?
 

hockenbery

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Then turning world is divided on curved rests.

1. If you use scrapers they are pretty much essential.

2. If you work to become proficient with the gouge you won’t need or want one.

It’s also fine to use one to make up for your gouge skills if you need too in the interim.

What I like for hollowing larger bowls is the Robust J rest.
This rest gives me more reach into the bowl and only has a right side so nothing to be in the way outside of the bowl.
Also the J provide support if a scraper is needed in the bottom of the bowl.

Check out the second video in the first post of this thread
http://www.aawforum.org/community/index.php?threads/working-with-green-wood.11626/

Hollowing is from 17:41-31:27 however the hollowing only works because of the trued rim, turn outside, and the trued tenon.

It is the second part of demo when I return a dried bowl. I hollow using a straight tool rest.
This is a small bowl 11” diameter so I don’t need the J rest.

Also don’t try the advanced flute up cuts unless you get someone to coach you on it.
It is and easy cut to do once you learn it but it is also sooo easy to get a catch.
If you hold the tool tightly you will get a catch.

Also @robo hippy makes an inside tool rest similar to the J rest shape. he may have one that would fit if you decide to go that route.
 
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if you have access to a welder you could fabricate a tool rest any size and shape, a local weld shop could make one for you in an hour.
 

odie

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To my thinking, both curved and straight rests are essential.....but, it will all depend on what shapes you pursue.

Keeping the rest close to the work means the fulcrum is enhanced to your favor.

I tend to have a very light grip on my tools, which allows a more smooth transition over the work surface.....caution though.....must know what you can do with a tool.....and what you can't. :eek:

-----odie-----
 
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A few weeks into the world of turning and already enticed into the theory that just one more tool will solve the mysteries of your turning world. The folks above are indeed correct, Don't get sucked into the just one more tool/accessory vortex. One turner at my club, who is a very proficient turner, has close to 300 tools. He has even made some to try. out of his own ideas, or from you tube videos showing tools not available on this continent. He keeps going back to the same few 3 or 4 tools.for 99.99999% of his turning. Of those tools, he buys the best replacements he can find when they wear down to nothing. So Beware the Vortex.
 

odie

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A few weeks into the world of turning and already enticed into the theory that just one more tool will solve the mysteries of your turning world. The folks above are indeed correct, Don't get sucked into the just one more tool/accessory vortex. One turner at my club, who is a very proficient turner, has close to 300 tools. He has even made some to try. out of his own ideas, or from you tube videos showing tools not available on this continent. He keeps going back to the same few 3 or 4 tools.for 99.99999% of his turning. Of those tools, he buys the best replacements he can find when they wear down to nothing. So Beware the Vortex.


About that "vortex"......it does have it's advantages. I have many tools that are seldom used, so the vortex is most assuredly real! The advantage is to gain knowledge in what works for you......and, what doesn't. Then there are those times when you grab that dusty old tool from the drawer and use it in a way you hadn't thought of before......and it works! Matter of fact, this was just the case yesterday! That's another very real advantage in having all those tools handy for new uses where you probably wouldn't have spent the money to buy it now! :D

-----odie-----
 
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There are a very few turners that I have run into that have gone the opposite and can be described I suppose as "minimalists And use a bare minimum of tools. Saw one making small snow men at a demonstration. His only tool was a skew, even for rounding the square stock to round and parting off.
 

hockenbery

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I use different tool sets for Different Objects.
These are tool lists I keep for a couple of demos I do.

Tool list bowl demo, NE bowl demo
½” bowl gouge parabolic flute Ellsworth grind ( 5/8” bar)
3/8” spindle gouge ( 3/8” bar)
1 ¼ round nose scraper ( used rarely)
Outside Calipers
Spur drive
Chuck with #2 dovetail jaws
Reverse chuck block
Oneway tailstock center


Tool list seed jar demo ( split hollow form)
½” bowl gouge parabolic flute Ellsworth grind ( 5/8” bar)
3/8” spindle gouge ( 3/8” bar)
¼” bowl gouge Michelson Grind ( 3/8” bar)
Square nose scraper
Pyramid tool.
Outside calipers
Dividers
Chuck with #2 dovetail jaws
Worm screw & spacer
Rubber chuckle cup center
Rubber chuckle tailstock center
IOneway tailstock center


Tool list Hollow Ball Christmas ornament demo
SRG
½ spindle gouge
3/8 spindle gouge
¼” round bar skew
½” skew
Diamond Parting tool
Thin kerf parting tool
Hollowing tool
Outside calipers
Jacobs chuck
3/4 Forster bit
½ brad point bit
Chuck with #1 Oneway profile Jaw
Chuck with #2 Oneway profile jaws
Oneway tailstock center

Tool list quick top demo
1/2” spindle gouge
Chuck with #2 Oneway profile jaws
 
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