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New wood destroyer

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I just recently bought a used Harbor Freight 34706 lathe and a set of inexpensive turning tools. I'm just starting and don't really anticipate doing a lot of turning. (famous last words!) I build custom fly and spinning rods and will only be turning cork grips up to 10 inches long and reel seats which are about 3/4 in. in diameter and 3-1/2 to 4 inches long. I have a faceplate that came with the lathe. Will a four jaw chuck (Harbor Freight) attach to the faceplate or do I need something else? I hope I don't need anything else, as the Mrs. keeps track of what I spend for my business. Thanks to all who respond.
 

john lucas

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You'll need to know the thread size of the spindle on the lathe. I'm not familiar with the sizes on the HF lathes. Some are really odd size threads that may be difficult to find a chuck for.
 
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HF's 4-jaw chuck, item 31223, has 3/4-10 threads. HF 34706 is 1-8. Won't fit. The chuck is intended for their lighter-duty lathe. I don't think it can, or should, be attached to the faceplate, like Steve suggests.

I use a Grizzly H6265, with extra jaws, on my HF34706. About $140 total (plus S&H), and a very small gap in overall range of grips.

For the limited range of your present pursuits, I'd suggest making your own chuck:
- Attach a piece of wood to the faceplate.
- Turn the outside round.
- Turn a socket to mate with the product, deep enough to allow flex in the wall, with plenty of wood from the faceplate to the bottom of the socket.
- Cut slots in the wall, about 4 cuts to produce 8 "fingers."
- Tighten the chuck with a hose clamp near the end. Cut off excess material of the hose clamp.
- Tape bright red or yellow tape around the hose clamp as a safety alert.

Buy an extra faceplate, if you anticipate other faceplate work. Leave the previous assembly intact, to preserve alignment.

This can get your feet wet, or wetter, and later on you can buy a proper adjustable chuck, if the Minister of Finance approves.
 
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Chucks

$140!!!:eek: That's more that I paid for the lathe! However, those on another forum said that you will have more in accessories that in the lathe. I'll do some searching and see what I can conjure up. We have a Woodcraft store in Chattanooga. Penn State Industries comes to mind. Many thanks for the replies. I'll probably have more questions later, like how to stop the bleeding, do fractures take long to heal, etc.

Edit: Joe, you stated the HF chuck has 3/4-10 threads. The lathe has 1-8 threads. Woodcraft has adapters(?) that appear to be threaded inside and outside. Would a 3/4-10 inside and 1-8 outside work? They are about 6 bucks each. (I'm cheap!) Thanks again.
 
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John:

I turn a lot of rod handles.... I turn with the rod blank on the lathe and don't try that until you've cut a drum or two of shavings.....:eek:

In the meantime, for turning cork handles, I suspect you'll be turning them on a mandrel... you can get a FINE three jaw chuck from HF for $27 to hold your mandrel on the headstock. I use my frequently (and I have a much more expensive four jaw chuck).

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4486

It's a steal. :D For mandrel turning you'll want to turn the jaws "inside out" so the steps face out... you'll have to swap the #1 jaw for the #3 when you do this but it takes three minutes once you've got it figured out.

TL
 
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$140!!!:eek: That's more that I paid for the lathe! However, those on another forum said that you will have more in accessories that in the lathe. I'll do some searching and see what I can conjure up. We have a Woodcraft store in Chattanooga. Penn State Industries comes to mind. Many thanks for the replies. I'll probably have more questions later, like how to stop the bleeding, do fractures take long to heal, etc.

Edit: Joe, you stated the HF chuck has 3/4-10 threads. The lathe has 1-8 threads. Woodcraft has adapters(?) that appear to be threaded inside and outside. Would a 3/4-10 inside and 1-8 outside work? They are about 6 bucks each. (I'm cheap!) Thanks again.

Other way around, John. You'd need an adapter FROM (spindle) 1-8 TO (chuck) 3/4-10. That's a little more complicated, but I think they might be available. Or maybe not; all I see in CSUSA's catalog near that is 1-8 to 3/4-16. 3/4-10 is UNC; 3/4-16 is UNF, and there are a total of 10 TPI's for 3/4" diameters in Machinery's Handbook.

Each component added to a drive train increases opportunity for wobble and misalignment, unless corrected by intermediate support.

There doesn't seem to be enough metal (or price) in the HF31223 chuck to include a scroll mechanism. The jaws might only be independently adjustable - not so good. I'd have to examine it before purchase, or have a generous return policy - including S&H.

As far as cheap is concerned, I got a second HF34706 lathe, used, for $100 from a fellow club member, with a new set of pulleys! Being poor is like riding a bicycle - you never forget how.
 
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Joe and Tony, thanks for the replies.
Tony, I turn the grip separately. That way if there is an "Ooopppsss!" you don't have a major project to remove the cork grip.
Joe, I understand what you are saying but I didn't word the post real good. Thanks for the info. The 1-8 adapter goes into the headstock and the 3/4-10 chuck threads into the adapter. Right?
I'll look into all the options. Again, thanks!
 
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Right, John. The adapter has internal threads 1-8, some metal for strength, then external 3/4-10. The internal threads should be deep enough to allow the adapter's hub to seat against a shoulder on the spindle. To reduce binding, it's a good idea to place a thin plastic washer (cut from the flat side of a milk bottle) at that interface; at the chuck's interface, you probably won't dis-assemble, so less important there.
 
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