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OB juice using denatured alcohol food safe?

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Aug 7, 2021
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Oshkosh, Wisconsin
I can’t seem to find good information on using denatured alcohol in OB juice and once it evaporates in the surface of the product would then be food safe?

My other thought is to use 90 proof vodka in place of it and make my own shellac instead of zinsser shellac. Does anyone have research or information on this?
 
Denatured is methyl (wood) alcohol, and it will do all sorts of really bad things to your body, and worse, over time. Is it food safe after ____ days? No clue. But I'd prefer ethyl (corn/grain) alcohol instead. A common idea is Everclear, but it is not available in full strength in each state. Check with a local liquor store or check the Everclear website. I don't think 90 proof (45%?) is concentrated enough alcohol.
 
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Denatured alcohol will have different additives but is most commonly it is made by adding methanol to ethanol.
Both evaporate completely. So none of the bad methanol is left.


Not having a chemist handy,
I posed this question to chatgp: “What is left when denatured alcohol evaporates”

The answer:
When denatured alcohol evaporates, what is left behind depends on the specific formulation of the denatured alcohol. Denatured alcohol is ethanol that has additives to make it unfit for human consumption. These additives can include substances like methanol, isopropanol, acetone, denatonium, and various other chemicals.

The key outcomes after evaporation include:

1. **Ethanol and Volatile Additives**: Both ethanol and many of the volatile additives will evaporate completely, leaving no residue.

2. **Non-Volatile Additives**: If the denatured alcohol contains non-volatile additives or impurities, these may remain as a residue. Non-volatile substances do not evaporate at the same rate as ethanol and volatile additives, potentially leaving behind a small amount of solid or liquid residue.

3. **Water**: If the denatured alcohol contains water, any remaining water may leave a slight moisture residue depending on environmental conditions.

In most typical formulations, denatured alcohol is designed to evaporate cleanly, leaving minimal to no residue. However, the exact nature of the residue can vary based on the specific denaturing agents used in the formulation.
 
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I can’t seem to find good information on using denatured alcohol in OB juice and once it evaporates in the surface of the product would then be food safe?

My other thought is to use 90 proof vodka in place of it and make my own shellac instead of zinsser shellac. Does anyone have research or information on this?
My recipe is boiled linseed oil, shellac flakes, and alcohol. BLO is not food safe. Shellac is made from bugs so that’s kinda gross, and shellac is weak to water so it’s a poor choice for items that need to be washed.
 
I don't get the fear regarding DNA. I use it every day. I use it to wipe dust off pieces before finishing, to make my shellac, and other general-purpose stuff.
 
I don't get the fear regarding DNA. I use it every day. I use it to wipe dust off pieces before finishing, to make my shellac, and other general-purpose stuff.
For my purposes I want to use OB juice on inside of a bowl that could be used for food. My OB juice is shellac, denatured alcohol and walnut oil. If denatured is used just as a carrier and evaporates I would think what is left is shellac and walnut oil.
 
Okay - I’ve read through this thread a couple of times and still have no clue what ‘OB juice’ refers to. Judging by context, sanding sealer? Or what. Please be gentle…
 
Okay - I’ve read through this thread a couple of times and still have no clue what ‘OB juice’ refers to. Judging by context, sanding sealer? Or what. Please be gentle…
Me, either. And I've been at it since '95.
 
Okay - I’ve read through this thread a couple of times and still have no clue what ‘OB juice’ refers to. Judging by context, sanding sealer? Or what. Please be gentle…
It's a weird name used by Captain Eddie for a finish made from equal parts shellac, boiled linseed oil, and denatured alcohol. (equal parts if the shellac comes out of a can vs flakes)
 
The exact contents of DNA you buy is not very clear and can vary by brand. In Wisconsin we have 190 proof everclear, I use it instead of DNA and deal with explaining to folks I don’t have an alcohol problem.
 
It's a weird name used by Captain Eddie for a finish made from equal parts shellac, boiled linseed oil, and denatured alcohol. (equal parts if the shellac comes out of a can vs flakes)
Thanks all - that clears that up. Always amazes me that after three decades of assembling a turning vocabulary I still stumble across language and usages that have escaped my attention (or possibly never got fully registered in the memory banks). Some are idiomatic I’m sure, some geocentric, but all find me scratching my head from time to time.
 
BLO is not food safe. Shellac is made from bugs so that’s kinda gross,
"Kinda Gross"? You do know that shellac is a common coating on the pills you take, such as tylenol, and other pills, right? (among many other food industry uses for shellac)

And yes BLO - The kind you buy at hardware stores - is not food safe, but there is polymerized linseed oil, which is also "boiled" (Actually it is heated to just below the flash point for a certain amount of time, which accelerates its cure time) - which is quite safe - It is basically the same thing as the flaxseed oil dietary supplements people buy at the pharmacy - The only difference between linseed oil and flaxseed oil is the process used to extract the oil - flaxseed is a much more refined version of linseed and all comes from the same flax plant (which is also used to make linen) - In short my point on that was just to clear up any misconceptions about linseed oil as a food safe finish... BLO from the can = Bad... but there's regular Linseed oil (pure oil non-polymerized takes months to cure, while polymerized can cure in as little as a couple weeks..)
 
Can't DNA or 90 proof here in CA anymore. Picked up a bottle of Evercear last time in Oregon. I don't use shine juice often but when I did the everclear seemed to work just fine. Lately been using Doctors Woodshop walnut oil/wax shine formula and I like it a lot.
 
When I first started turning I made paper towel holders for family members as Chrismas gifts. I used this ob shine juice mixture as recommended by a friend, mine was equal parts denatured alcohol, linseed oil, and shellac. This mixture wont' hold up to water. Our towel holder has the finish coming off of it from water dripping onto it from your hands when getting a paper towel. It's a nice looking finish for decorative items that won't see any water.
 
I can’t seem to find good information on using denatured alcohol in OB juice and once it evaporates in the surface of the product would then be food safe?

My other thought is to use 90 proof vodka in place of it and make my own shellac instead of zinsser shellac. Does anyone have research or information on this?
After the alcohol evaporates and the finish cures, there's nothing left that will leach out of the wood. The coating on M&Ms and other cadies is shellac. According to Flexnor, every finish that is fully cured is food safe.
 
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