Padauk Bleeding

[Tom Kuzia]

I'm sure this has been asked and answered before but I can't find this subject here.
I'm using Zinsser shellac based sanding sealer and the padauk is bleeding into the cherry next to it.
Is there a way to stop the bleeding and if so how do I do it?
Tom

 

[Ed Davidson]

Probably can't stop the bleeding, but you can remove it. After applying the sealer, re-sand as needed...maybe from 220 through 400 grit, then Beall buff or apply a spray-on finish.

 

[Tom Kuzia]

Probably can't stop the bleeding, but you can remove it. After applying the sealer, re-sand as needed...maybe from 220 through 400 grit, then Beall buff or apply a spray-on finish.

Thanks Ed,,, didn't think something that simple would work!
Tom

 

[Robert D Evans]

Don't worry. In 6 months the padauk and cherry will look almost the same anyway.

 

[Ric Williams]

Found out the hard way that bloodwood will do the same thing. Stains your hands (and anything else) too. I imagine there are plenty of other woods that will do something similar.

 

[john lucas]

You can reduce the Padauk carryover almost to nill if you coat the piece with sanding sealer before you sand. Then blow it off and wipe off the sanding dust and then coat with sanding sealer again and sand with the next grit. The sealer helps fill up the pores of the light wood and make it easier to blow and wipe out the sanding dust between grits. Padauk will turn a really nice brown over the years but will still have a fair amount of contrast with the maple.

 

[Tom Kuzia]

You can reduce the Padauk carryover almost to nill if you coat the piece with sanding sealer before you sand. Then blow it off and wipe off the sanding dust and then coat with sanding sealer again and sand with the next grit. The sealer helps fill up the pores of the light wood and make it easier to blow and wipe out the sanding dust between grits. Padauk will turn a really nice brown over the years but will still have a fair amount of contrast with the maple.

Thanks John.
Great information and help!
Tom

 

[Dave Hulett]

although I was familiar with paudak bleeding I hadn't had occasion to use it until know. I am making a maple wave bowl and guess what I choose to use for the protruding wave? I knew it was a potential problem but decided to try it anyway. The wave bowl is completely sanded before you glue it together so I don't think the sanding dust is a problem. But now that it's glued up (it looks awesome, If I do say so myself!) I'm concerned about the bleeding when applying a finish. I usually use wipe on poly (50/50 with mineral spirits) but I'm not wedded to it. After reading this and a couple of other threads I am planning on coating with Auquacoat (water based sealer) first..... I think.. Thought I'd get some thoughts from others before I proceed.

 

[Tom Kuzia]

With the help I got here I was successful in not having any bleeding whatsoever.
I sanded the piece to 400 grit and wiped it down with a paper towel.I vacuumed the piece and wiped it down with a tack cloth.I wiped it down with acetone and let it dry thoroughly.I then gave it 3 coats of Zinsser shellac based sanding sealer and wet sanded with 400 grit sandpaper.After another cleaning I gave it 3 coats of Minwax clear/gloss polycrylic.I then used a homemade sanding paste (bees wax/tripoli powder).I'm adding a handle so that's as far as I've gone with the finishing,,,
Hope this helps too,,,

 

[Dave Hulett]

Thanks Tom, after I made my earlier post I realized that I still have to complete turning and sanding on the inside of the wave bowl. I'll make sure I have plenty of acetone to clean it