Pen Turning Questions

[tvgordon]

I was wondering if there was any tool or technique that would be good for turning plastic pen blanks? I've used scrapers and spindle gouges and always end up with a lot of sanding to clean up all the chips in the plastic.
Also, what's a good durable wood pen finish? I've used different shellac and wax finishes sold for lathe use. Does anyone use a wipe on poly finish or just use a buffing system? I would like something that's going to look just as good as new for many years. Thanks, Tom.

 

[Bill Boehme]

A skew would be the best and easiest tool for pens. I would recommend that you never use a scraper for any kind of spindle turning.

For plastic pens, the only finish needed is to polish the surface with finer and finer grits until you reach the degree of shine that you want.

For wooden pens the answer is more difficult as there is no perfect finish. I think that CA works well, but it has a learning curve to get decent results.

Bill

 

[rbabbittjr]

I use a spindle gouge for pens and find with many synthetics techniques is very important. There is a fine line between cutting and chipping. "Riding the Bevel" is important, once you get the bevel rubbing you should get nice curls. Some synthetics are easier than others. I use CA on my wood pens. For synthetics I sand to 12000 with micro mesh and do a final sand/polish with Brasso. Check out the following site for everything and more you want to know about pens.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/portal.asp

 

[SUBDOC]

Use a skew

Use a good sharp skew and take your time. I sand with 180, 220, 300, then on to micromesh and use all 9 grades of that. I then use the One Step Plastic Polish that I got from PennStateInd. My pens have a glass like finish after that. All 9 grades of micromesh may be overkill but that is just the way I do it.

For wood I like to use laquer finishes. I have had good success with Behlens Master Woodturners finish. Make sure you use it in a well ventilated area though.

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/behlenpol.html

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/onestep.html

 

[Steve Russell]

I use a micro spindle gouge with an Irish grind to turn pens...

Hello Tom,

I turn lots of plastics and through the years I have developed a different way to turn not only plastics, but other materials as well. I use a 1/4" Henry Taylor Micro Spindle gouge that has a long Irish grind on it. The blank is rounded over in the traditional fashion (Flute at 45 degrees) with the gouge, working off the ends of the blank towards the headstock, or the tailstock. Once the blank is rounded over, I use the SIDE of the Irish grind with the wing angle held at 15 - 20 degrees to the long axis of the blank to rough turn the blank to the desired shape. Finish turning and shaping is performed with the wing angle at 45 degrees to the long axis of the blank. This is a bevel rubbing technique, not scraping. The difference is that you rub the wing bevel, not the front bevel.

I have been demonstrating my technique for more than five years at demonstrations I gave at The Woodworking Shows. Hundreds of turners from all over the country have emailed me stating that it is one of the best ways they have ever found to turn a pen. Students from my private instruction classes also report that this is the easiest way they've found to turn a pen. If done correctly, the barrel surface will be good enough to start sanding as high as 400 grit. This technique works with plastics, wood, antler, composites and other materials except, solid metal, which requires a different protocol.

I produced a video on turning pens using my new method, you can see a video preview that shows my technique at the following link:

http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/dvd-woodturning-videos.html

If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me. Take care and all the best to you and yours!

 

[ahoiberg]

tom,

can't comment on the plastics as i've not tried one yet.

but ca or lacquer are definitely the way to go for lasting wood finish. i've been using a modified boiled linseed oil and ca finish that i like A LOT. lacquer takes too long for my impatientness. if you're interested, let me know and i'll PM you my finishing technique.

as the other poster said, go to penturners.org and do some searches there or sign up, it's a very helpful crew over there.

cheers,
andrew

 

[Steve Russell]

Durable Pen Finishes...

Hello Tom,

I forgot to answer the second part of your post on durable pen finishes...

Through the years the most durable pen finishes I have found are:

1.) User Catalyzed Lacquer (not pre-cat).

2.) Cyanoacrylate Ester (CA Glue).

3.) Binary Epoxies (clear/clear).

The User Catalyzed Lacquer is a difficult product for many hobbyists to use, but it works well. The CA is an effective finish and is durable as well. My favorite is a binary epoxy, but it is a time intensive application protocol. I use all three of the above products, depending on the price range of my pens. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me. Take care and all the best to you and yours!

 

[Steve Worcester]

Hello Tom,

I forgot to answer the second part of your post on durable pen finishes...

Through the years the most durable pen finishes I have found are:

1.) User Catalyzed Lacquer (not pre-cat).

3.) Binary Epoxies (clear/clear).

I am guessing a catalyzed lacquer is one where you have to add the catalyst before mixing and shooting? Do you have a brand you have used and can you mix it in small batches? (I am also guessing that it can't be stored for long after adding the catalyst).

Also, do you shoot the epoxy? How do you do that? What do you use to thin it and what brand would be an example of what you are using?

 

[tvgordon]

Thanks for all the help.
With the wood pen finishes, wouldn't the CA or lacquer finishes show wear over time? For example, when something with a film finish receives wear in the same place over time, you can see the shine of the finish around the dull worn area. Or would the pen fail before the finish shows that much wear? I'm guessing wax would have a similar wear pattern.
Tom.

 

[JimVH]

I'm a skew guy for most of my pen work - especially plastics.

I don't use alot of laquer, but I did on my very first pen several years ago. I carry it almost every day and most of the metal finish (gold) has worn off, but the wood finish still looks pretty good.

For what it's worth...

 

[ahoiberg]

i've heard of guys having their CA finished pens for 3+ years without the finish dulling. plus, you can take them apart fairly easily and re-finish them if you absolutely need to.

 

[Steve Russell]

Here Goes...

Hello Steve,

UCAT's and PCAT's are *very* difficult and temper-mental products to use, but since you asked... Yes, UCAT's (User Catalyzed) or PCAT's (Post Catalyzed) lacquers require YOU to add the catalyst, or sometimes it is added by the company when you purchase it. The pot life varies by product, some are very short.

Catalyzed lacquers offer a lacquers ease of application coupled with a better overall durability, like that achieved with a varnish. I use several brands, depending on what I can get at the time and whether I need a pure clear, or can get away with a finish that will yellow slightly over time. On medium colored timbers and darker, the yellowing products can actually enhance the overall color on some timbers.

Sher-Wood T77C30 gloss is a good product. You have to seal it first with a vinyl sealer for best results. You get less than 30 days pot life and small batches are not easy to mix up. I also like Duravar (Amber) and Krystal (Clear) by ML Campbell. Sherwin Williams has some really good products, also Lilly and Len Mar have some nice products. Reducers vary by product and your need, so check before buying.

I prefer to spray my finishes whenever possible. On something small like a pen, I use a fine artists airbrish. I also have a large HVLP rig for larger projects like my Grecian wine and water vessels.

Yes, I spray my epoxy finishes. It's a bear to do and I do not recommend it unless you are prepared to toast a few airguns to get the process down pat. I thin my epoxy with Acetone, or White Vinegar to reduce it to an acceptable viscosity. Once applied, I turn the finished barrels for several hours at approximately 5-10 RPM until the epoxy has cross-linked. To keep the barrels turning, I use an old BBQ rotisserie motor and a handmade mandrel assembly.

I use West Systems Epoxy (WS) and also System Three (S3), depending on my need and the color of the underlying timber. I like the Clear Coat product from S3, as the base and hardener are crystal clear. I've used another product that's made for surfboards, but I cannot recall the name at the moment. Seems like it was a WS product???

You can wipe on the epoxy, but it will not "lay-in" as well as when you shoot it. The constant rotation is necessary to prevent runs, drips etc; as the epoxy cross-links. You have to learn to shoot FAST and clean your gun IMMEDIATELY, or you will have a nice piece of metal art for your troubles! Nothing can interrupt this shooting and cleaning process, or you need a large supply of spray guns on hand and a "Gawallup" of cash in your back pocket. Don't ask me how I know this...

So, if I haven't scared you away yet... I'm planning on writing an article on my advanced pen finishes, and will also add it to an upcoming DVD video. I'm quite surprised though by the number of turners that have emailed me about these finishes. They are way too difficult for 99% of the turners out there, IMHO. Take care and all the best to you and yours!