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Please help with installing new inverter on Powermatic 3520

A

Adam Vila

Joined
Dec 5, 2023
Messages
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Location
Honolulu, HI
Hello, I am seeking advice on how to properly install and program a new inverter for a Powermatic 3520a. Photos on the old (first 2 photos) and new inverter (last 4) are below. The new one does not have the aluminum fins on the back. Is this due to advances in technology, or do I need to remove the cooling fins off the old one and put on the new one?

Most importantly, how do I configure the programming to run on 220v?

Thank you in advance!
 

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I'd guess it's 220v already.

I'll also guess the old one was a mostly solid box with attached fins/heatsink, but the new one has some ventilation and maybe a tiny fan.


Do you have the manual for it?
 
No, I do not have a manual. Thank you for your reply. Does anybody have any insights into how to wire the forward/reverse?

Pics of old and new inverter wiring below:
 

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Can you scan the QR code? (photo wasn't clear enough for mine to work) I'm guessing there's some info there.

If you tilt the old one, the terminals should have labels underneath. That might help, but even if you get the wiring sorted, you'll probably need some documentation for programming/setting parameters.
 
You should be able to download the manual here Delta AC drives and there are some videos on Youtube. I have hooked up a few vfds and the manuals can be a bit opaque but once you figure out the button sequences the programming is usually straightforward. I would suggest putting the vfd in a dust-resistant enclosure or at least in a location that is out of the dust stream. My friend had to replace the vfd on his PM 3520 and was convinced it was from its unprotected location on the headstock.
 
Darryl Fective said:
I'd guess it's 220v already.

I'll also guess the old one was a mostly solid box with attached fins/heatsink, but the new one has some ventilation and maybe a tiny fan.


Do you have the manual for it?
Click to expand...
Thank you Darryl, it's a lathe I'm buying, and the other guy has the manual. But Kevin just sent this link, which is super helpful. I'll see if the old one has labels underneath.
 
Kevin Jenness said:
You should be able to download the manual here Delta AC drives and there are some videos on Youtube. I have hooked up a few vfds and the manuals can be a bit opaque but once you figure out the button sequences the programming is usually straightforward. I would suggest putting the vfd in a dust-resistant enclosure or at least in a location that is out of the dust stream. My friend had to replace the vfd on his PM 3520 and was convinced it was from its unprotected location on the headstock.
Click to expand...
Thank you Kevin, I'll take a look at the manual, though I'm no electrician. Hopefully we'll figure it out and not burn it up or something else.
 
Adam,

There are several very useful prior threads on Powermatic VFD replacement, and I would strongly encourage you to search for them and review. No need to reinvent the wheel.

The aluminum fin contraption that was between the old VFD and the headstock was useful for cooling the VFD. Most new VFDs come with a fan as Darryl suggested and the fins are not required. HOWEVER, hidden in the fins is the 3520a braking resister. You may want to remove it and mount it along with the new VFD. (It's stuck on with foam double sided tape and can seem surprisingly solidly fixed) Some newer VFDs include a function that makes the braking resister superfluous, but I'm a belt and suspenders kinda guy.

One aspect not generally covered in prior VFD threads is that the holes in the headstock for attaching the VFD will probably not be right for the new VFD. You will have to rig up an interface panel or drill and tap holes in the headstock. An interface panel could be as simple as a 1/8+" sheet of aluminum into which you drill holes that match the headstock and holes that match the vfd. I forget the reason, but wood is not a desirable interface in this setting.
 
Dean Center said:
Adam,

There are several very useful prior threads on Powermatic VFD replacement, and I would strongly encourage you to search for them and review. No need to reinvent the wheel.

The aluminum fin contraption that was between the old VFD and the headstock was useful for cooling the VFD. Most new VFDs come with a fan as Darryl suggested and the fins are not required. HOWEVER, hidden in the fins is the 3520a braking resister. You may want to remove it and mount it along with the new VFD. (It's stuck on with foam double sided tape and can seem surprisingly solidly fixed) Some newer VFDs include a function that makes the braking resister superfluous, but I'm a belt and suspenders kinda guy.

One aspect not generally covered in prior VFD threads is that the holes in the headstock for attaching the VFD will probably not be right for the new VFD. You will have to rig up an interface panel or drill and tap holes in the headstock. An interface panel could be as simple as a 1/8+" sheet of aluminum into which you drill holes that match the headstock and holes that match the vfd. I forget the reason, but wood is not a desirable interface in this setting.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much Dean, very helpful.
 
One more thought--for a period of time, Powermatic put the braking resistor inside the headstock. I can't recall when or which version had that, but the resistor is wired with a pair of white wires. Look for them, follow them, and there it will be. The one on a VFD I replaced at our high school shop was remarkably unimpressive looking, within the fins. Just an aluminum taco, with white wires attached.
 
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