Up until now I’ve mostly used oil or Tried and True as a finish. But I made a couple of small lidded bowls and decided to try out some homemade shine juice (shellac/etoh/blo). After doing a few coats I was super happy with the results until today when I went to turn off the tenons. They are definitely shiny but under the right light and from the right angle you can see dull lines around the bowls, particularly towards the lip. I tried taking some pictures to post but it doesn’t show up so I’m hoping you know what I’m talking about. Can someone explain what causes that and how to prevent it? And better yet how to fix it. I tried another coat but once it dried it was the same thing. Obviously I’m doing something wrong but it seemed simple enough.
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Problem with shine juice
- Thread starter Shaun Tyler
- Start date
I've found that shine juice seems to hold up better over a cured oil finish.
If the dull lines are circumferential, might they be due to tool marks or sanding?
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Can be tool marks
Can be improper sanding
Can be streaks made applying finish
Streaks from wiping finish are a real problem unless you develop superb application skills
Haven’t tried shine juice but I have the same problem with Myland’s friction polish. Haven’t developed the application skills needed to use it properly.
I've found that Myland's will streak if applied too heavily. Multiple light coats work much better.
In the case of very fine sanding scratches (600gt or higher), I've found that developing a technique of random orbit sanding by hand with the last grit used (or higher) can eliminate these scratches that tend to show up after the finish is applied.
They are difficult to see at the pre-finish application stage, but by using bright light and carefully looking over the entire turning while looking directly into the glare of the light, you can teach yourself to see them.
Once you discover how to do this, I guarantee you will thank yourself for taking the time to develop this technique.
=o=
It could be I'm applying too heavily but I'm also wondering if it's from over buffing. Because I seem to be able to make it worse. Basically it looks like I've taken a bit of the shine off in areas. The marks are around the circumference but it's not so much lines as bands. In some cases several mm wide. I can spend some time today messing around to see if I can fix it or just make it worse
. Worst case scenario is they get sanded down and I start again.
. Worst case scenario is they get sanded down and I start again.
100%. Wiping on shellac (or shine juice, in this case) is very tough to do without leaving behind evidence of each layer, especially where the layers overlap. Sanding out the overlap lines usually leaves behind an inconsistent finish (i.e. duller where you had to sand and / or buff out the lines).
Only way I’ve found to mitigate is either apply the finish by hand in one fluid motion while the piece is on the lathe or go the spray on route.
I have had good luck applying shine juice by first putting the juice on a folded paper towel and then holding the paper towel to the spinning surface. I have found that the white kitchen paper towels leave a better surface than the blue "shop" towels.
I haven't had any issues with Myland's. Put on a light coat, let it dry for a few minutes, then apply pressure with a cloth at about 1,200 RPMs. The surface needs to heat up to melt the wax.
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Applying shine juice it is best to think of a "French Polish" . Ball up a piece of soft cloth such as t-shirt material, you can also roll this into a tight roll. Saturate this with your finish . Apply with lathe running. Do not go back over any area until finish is dry. Shellac is referred to as layering , not coats, each time you apply more it adds to the thickness as shellac and lacquer "melt" together to form one solid layer. If you want to buff do it lightly after full cure of 7 to 10 days.