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Processing a tree trunk

Joined
Jun 10, 2021
Messages
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Location
Oregon City, Oregon
For the last few months I have been turning every day. I have a few pieces of wood that I think will be really nice, and and I am working on my skills before I take them on. The winter ice storm left me with a lot of wood to practice on, pine and cedar, and maybe I will try some Doug fir. The wood presents some challenges and has helped me to refine my tool use. The latest are from one chunk of cedar tree trunk.
After they finished drying I will use shellac to stiffen the fuzzies prior to sanding. They are both 9 inches by 5 on one and 3 1/2 on the other.
 

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Turners starting on bowls almost always make a 'dog bowl' at first--a bowl with essentially straight sides and a wide bottom. You've got excellent curves and apparently a very good sense for shape and already know how to make it happen at the lathe. You are doing great, Spike. The pine and fir are not generally prized as turning woods, but you can learn some good lessons trying to get a nice smooth surface with them, and the price is right. Kudos to you!
 
Many thanks Dean and Lou! I am having such a good time with these things!
in my previous life I was a custom order jewelry maker, and curves were my stock and trade!
Best, Spike
Aha! Another data point supporting my theory that artists from other fields advance rapidly in woodturning.
 
From Spike's post above: "curves were my stock and trade!"
Amen Amen - achieving a fair curve is nirvana - and in a subtractive endeavor, the most challenging of skills.
Fortunately there is a tool that will overcome the tricks our eyes might play - it's called a batten. Ever wonder how those before computers built boats? It's called "lofting" and done in those big upper rooms above boat barns.
Just go snitch the SS insert out of your neighbors Honda windshield wiper or grind the teeth off a 2-ft piece of bandsaw blade. Hold the ends and make simple or complex curves - you can't make it take an "unpleasing" form.
Or drape it over a bowl or hollow-form in process - it will tell you where to cut next.
Sorry for the rant but Spike's statement merits more than the casual context.
 
Just go snitch the SS insert out of your neighbors Honda windshield wiper or grind the teeth off a 2-ft piece of bandsaw blade. Hold the ends and make simple or complex curves - you can't make it take an "unpleasing" form.
I've also used a hot glue stick wrapped around a form to discover little flat spots.
 
Hold a chain (or piece of rope) from any two points (distances) to produce a Catenary Curve. The results will always be pleasing and can be expanded for other forms (i.e., ogee).
 
I've also used a hot glue stick wrapped around a form to discover little flat spots.
Please send a pic - I understand each word - and while I may be in TX, I can read the whole sentence. But I haven't a clue what you're talking about.
Again, gotta see a pic.
Shoot low sheriff - they're ridin Shetlands
 
Please send a pic - I understand each word - and while I may be in TX, I can read the whole sentence. But I haven't a clue what you're talking about.
I see what probably happened... I used the word "form" meaning some shape I'd made. You might be thinking like jig or something. Anyway, 1000 words coming up:
IMG_6701.JPGIMG_6701.JPG
 
Not slow, not fast, just half fast...... On the wall at a tavern I used to go to many years ago....

You can develop an eye for it with enough practice. I do like to view the curve from the line of fire area, and only do that with the lathe turned off. I have gotten used to seeing the curve from a 45 degree angle now, so I don't have to stand in the line of fire. Rubbing the bowl with your hands is good for pointing out any high or low areas. I do like the idea of the glue stick. I would guess any spring steel ruler would work as well.

robo hippy
 
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