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Production Bowls, Milk Painted
- Thread starter bowlman
- Start date
Very eye catching pieces!!
Beautiful work, Dick!!!
Can you give us an idea of how you finished these with respect to sanding, manner of painting, brand of milk paint, any special steps, etc. These are so pretty, I'm thinking there are likely others besides me who would like to give this a try...
Thanks for posting the image!
Rob
Beautiful work, Dick!!!
Can you give us an idea of how you finished these with respect to sanding, manner of painting, brand of milk paint, any special steps, etc. These are so pretty, I'm thinking there are likely others besides me who would like to give this a try...
Thanks for posting the image!
Rob
production bowl, milk painted
for these bowls, I used cores from other larger bowls. The cores were well seasoned, probably 2-3 years old. I first turned the outside while mounted on a Glaser screw chuck. A tenon was made to fit my nova chuck with the standard 2 1/4 inch jaws. The bowl was reversed so that I could face off te blank and sand the first inch or so of the face. When using milk paint, I only sand to 220. I then applied the milk paint (Old Fashioned Milk paint), using a disposable foam brush. Apply a thin coat and let dry. Sand lightly by hand with 220. Apply a second coat. Let dry. If the surface seems ok, then its time to finish turning the inside. By painting what will eventaully be the rim and cutting through it, I get a nice clean line. If I turned it and then applied the milk paint, I would have paint on the inside were I don't want it. And I have never been successful using masking tape to keep the paint away from areas I want left natural. Sand the inisde to 220.
Reverse mount the bowl so you have access to the outside. Make any finishing cuts to the tenon to clean up the inevitable marks from being gripped by the chuck.
Apply Mahoney's walnut oil, or Watco danish oil, or finish of your choice. I have also used Masters Choice semi-gloss spray from Craft Supplies with good results.
Hope this helps!
for these bowls, I used cores from other larger bowls. The cores were well seasoned, probably 2-3 years old. I first turned the outside while mounted on a Glaser screw chuck. A tenon was made to fit my nova chuck with the standard 2 1/4 inch jaws. The bowl was reversed so that I could face off te blank and sand the first inch or so of the face. When using milk paint, I only sand to 220. I then applied the milk paint (Old Fashioned Milk paint), using a disposable foam brush. Apply a thin coat and let dry. Sand lightly by hand with 220. Apply a second coat. Let dry. If the surface seems ok, then its time to finish turning the inside. By painting what will eventaully be the rim and cutting through it, I get a nice clean line. If I turned it and then applied the milk paint, I would have paint on the inside were I don't want it. And I have never been successful using masking tape to keep the paint away from areas I want left natural. Sand the inisde to 220.
Reverse mount the bowl so you have access to the outside. Make any finishing cuts to the tenon to clean up the inevitable marks from being gripped by the chuck.
Apply Mahoney's walnut oil, or Watco danish oil, or finish of your choice. I have also used Masters Choice semi-gloss spray from Craft Supplies with good results.
Hope this helps!
Thanks Dick!
I have recorded your directions and images of the stack of bowls in my "Finishing" file. I will definitely give this a try!
Rob
I have recorded your directions and images of the stack of bowls in my "Finishing" file. I will definitely give this a try!
Rob