Question Regarding Applying Shellac

[Dan Mosley]

I started posting on YouTube some of my woodturning videos on how I use tools and apply finishes. The one i am currently working on is making your own shellac and the application. The way i use shellac "most" of the time is:
- sand to 320-400 depending on the wood and project i am doing
- apply 1lb cut (sometime zinseer seal coat cut 50% or I make my own) x 3 coats and denib if necessary
- apply 2lb cut - 2 to 3 times and denib if necessary
- denib after the final coat using 3m fine micro mesh (or 0000 steel wool)
- apply wax (Lundmark/Mylands/Howard's) and buff well
So, what I am asking is how others apply shellac and thoughts on the outcome. I want to make a more in depth video on methods of use from other woodworkers.

Thanks in advance, Dan

 

[Tom Lucas]

I only use for smaller projects or as a sealer under other finishes. For sealing I use a 1lb cut. Two coats max.

Shellac is beautiful as a friction polish, but only worth it on smaller things, like finials, pens, knobs, tops, etc. I find it takes way to long to build up a uniform finish on larger objects.

Lately I've started using PITA's true grit abrasive paste (cheaper than other brands) applied with 1000 grit sandpaper and then friction polished in while removing residue. This leaves a beautiful surface. Then I might top coat with Tried and True Original or wipe on poly if I'm going for that high luster look. But the abrasive alone looks outstanding. I doubt that it's particularly durable, though, without a top coat of something.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Your procedure sounds good but for high shine with shellac takes maybe 6 applications (as all applications meld into one coat or layer) .I can get a high shine with shellac on flat work but it is work. Have only done that once on turnings and decided the result was not worth the work. So I use lacquer for shine and danish oil for regular finishing.

 

[Dan Mosley]

Thanks for the comments on the shellac topic. A couple questions:

Tom - PITA being a abrasive paste wax is something I have not tried yet. Are you able to put lacquer or poly over the top of it ? or do you have to stick with a wax finish ?

Gerald - I have done a few videos now on YouTube on how I use lacquer and I agree with you. Lacquer and oil are my favorite finishes. I am doing videos on different finishes and talking about the results and thoughts on their use.
I will try the more applications like you mentioned. I will say that as a seal coat for lacquer or poly it does work well me. If I am doing a lacquer or poly finish I tend to do 2-3 seal coats and denib on the last coat then I spray my lacquer on building up many light coats. I did a video ill release in the next day or two where i mixed lacquer and BLO and it has a suprising nice finish the way i applied it. I am off topic here. I am constantly exploring different finishes and wrapping up this on the shellac
finish. I have made my own using blonde flakes and also used Zinseer seal coat making sure both are dewaxed so i am able apply lacquer or poly over if I want.

 

[Randy Anderson]

Dan, shellac is my primary finish for my hollow forms, large and small. After a good bit of using it I've settled on a 1.5lb cut using dewaxed flakes. There is, to me, a noticeable difference between the flakes and the canned shellac, I typically spray on 3 very light coats with a critter spray gun. I let each coat dry until it's not tacky to the touch. I then lightly buff with a grey 3M pad or some 400 paper. I then rub on 3 more coats with a french polishing pad. Once you get a rhythm going it actually goes fairly quickly. I almost always find 3 spray on and 3 rub on provides a great finish. I'm able to cover a large piece well and get a very nice finish. A tip for putting it on with the pad is to put a few drops of mineral oil on when the pad feels some resistance or drag. Keep your pad saturated with shellac from a small spout tipped bottle and look at your progress at an angle in the light to see spots you need to address. I can get a nice finish without a lot of complicated steps and it's my goto finish for when I want a deep gloss look.

Also, I use a friction polish on most all of my hollow forms after sanding. I make sure it's clean after polishing but have never had an issue with shellac sticking. As you'll here people that use it say - shellac sticks to anything and anything sticks to shellac.

 

[Wally Crawford]

Shellac is the go to finish for most of my bowls. I have been using the Zinzer seal coat and their shellac-multiple coats as you describe. When I am satisfied with the finish, I use Acks polish to get even more shine, followed up by OB's shine juice. I am pleased with the outcome and would rather be turning than fussing with making my own shellac.

 

[Tom Lucas]

Thanks for the comments on the shellac topic. A couple questions:

Tom - PITA being a abrasive paste wax is something I have not tried yet. Are you able to put lacquer or poly over the top of it ? or do you have to stick with a wax finish ?

I've over coated directly with T&T without any additional processing. The wax is a pre-finish polishing product that is meant to be overcoated. You are supposed to remove excess by using a clean rag in a high speed friction process. Afterwards, to be sure, I use mineral spirits to remove it before using a surface film product like wipe on poly. It can probably be applied between poly coats too instead of plain old sandpaper. I have no idea how it works with lacquer, as I seldom use lacquer due to our high humidity. Give it a try, you'll love the finish it leaves behind all by itself.