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Questions about Slick Stick (and recapitulation)

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Anyone try making a cleaner to clean cbn wheels and lube bandsaw blades. I have all these ingredients at home. The Microcrystalline wax I have from Lee valley tools. Do you thing a double boiler with all ingredients, outside of course would work. Going to try This week unless anyone can see a huge issue mixing these? Can’t see why I would need the tallow. I realize the slick stick is not that expensive, but importing into Canada, shipping etc. Killer, at least for a woodturner with a tool wish list longer than my arm,

this is from msds sheets from company on slick stick. 5B110A21-1D3D-4B43-AFC6-D74803C0C37E.jpeg
 
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For cleaning my CBN wheels, I figure there are 2 options. One, from Dave Schweitzer, former owner of D Way tools, he would soak them in water with some Simple Green cleaner and then brush them off. For me, I just dab a bit of honing fluid on the bevel of my tools once in a while to keep the wheel clean. It seems that most of the color on the wheel, for me because I turn green wood, is gunk from the wood. It doesn't seem to impair the cutting ability, but just doesn't look good. There are aluminum oxide sticks that some sell that are intended for cleaning the CBN wheels. I have tried them, and they do send up a lot of dust into the air, and kind of clean off the wheel. The only reason I can think of for using them is if you get some metal build up on the wheel from sharpening unhardened metal on the wheel. When that happens to me, I just use the honing fluid and take a scraper and sharpen it several times. It does the job, and no nasty dust in the air, well, other than the metal.

As for bandsaw blades, I have given up on trying to lubricate them to keep gunk off of them. Maybe if some one invents some sort of teflon type of coating that will actually stay on the blade for longer than 2 or 3 revolutions, I would consider that. Every thing else I have tried, Pam, Glide Coat, walnut oil, and maybe a few others, is gone faster than the grinder burr on a NRS...

robo hippy
 
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@Emiliano: Have you had time to get an impression of the Slick Stick product? Or anyone else?
Ken Rizza's video is clear when it comes to showing the effect on copper embedded in the cbn but I'd much rather hear what it can do with mild steel and brass?(You've guessed it, a newb was allowed to try a Varigrind jig on my CBN wheel :confused:)
And equally interesting but maybe too early to tell: Does it effectively keep stuff from sticking to the wheel?
TIA, Lars
 

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I applied the slick stick the day I got it because I have lots of homemade tools made from High Carbon steel. I had not noticed any problems sharpening them but when I saw the slick stick I decided it was easily worth the money to try it out. I also applied it to my Bandsaw blade. Haven't really noticed a difference in either yet bit I will be cutting a bunch of green wood in the next few weeks and will see if it helps cut down on the gunking of the blade with that. I don't typically grind copper or aluminum or soft metals on my CBN's but since I'm always building things and have to walk all the way across the room to simply knock off an edge I might give it a try.
 

Emiliano Achaval

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@Emiliano: Thanks. Could you share a bit about what stuff the Stick removed? Steel, organic material from wood or...?
I got my CBN wheels years ago. I'm guessing they will last several years more. I got them from Dway tools, $250 each. I try to clean up the tools when I sharpen, I use a welding 3M cleaning pad to take all the sap or anything left on the bevel. Some students ground the ancient square Ellsworth holder into the wheel, the aluminum was noticeable. The stick got some of it off, and the wheel feels again a bit sharper.
 
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I experienced the same thing others have. One simple swipe and this is the result. I'm going to try the WD 40 method and use the slick stick on my band saw unless someone can show me the error of my ways.


CBN Wheel.JPG
 
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Same here. I always wire brush my tools before sharpening, so it's only metal dust that sticks til the Slick Stick (sic!), but the wheels looked pretty much like your's Dave, only darker.
It may protect the wheel from deposits of non-cbn-friendy metal, but yesterday both my trusty WW wheels got a cleaning in hot water with detergent and today they definately cut better.
 
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odie

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View: https://youtu.be/2RsHB8v4htQ

^^^^^Added as FYI, because I was unaware of what "slick stick" is.

Note: If I told you what I really think about the current trends concerning CBN wheels, hybrid steels, bowl turning methods, sanding products, gouge grinds, techniques......I'd surely make a few of you angry.......so, in the past, some of you have taught me to just keep my mouth shut, as it makes life on this forum much easier. ;) (Well, until I feel gutsy again about sharing my opinions and experiences.)

One thing I should say is......beware of anything you hear and see when someone will take your money in order for you to form your own opinions about their conclusions......and, some of the more "questionable" conclusions are highly endorsed by the AAW herd of turners!... :rolleyes: (This is not to say that there aren't a few things that are appropriate and applicable.....just that there are many more inapplicable things, than those that are truly applicable!.....so how many of you have a drawer full of things that didn't work like you were told, or did things in a certain way, that didn't work out as well as you were led to believe?)

Just about everything you need to know about turning bowls, was known 100 years ago.....and, there is no secret ring that overcomes what you can learn by simply doing your "time in the saddle", while making appropriate observations and conclusions about what YOU experience......not what others want you to think and believe.

(sorry about the rant)
 
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^^^^^Added as FYI, because I was unaware of what "slick stick" is.

-----odie-----

Note: If I told you what I really think about the current trends concerning CBN wheels, hybrid steels, bowl turning methods, sanding products, gouge grinds, techniques......I'd surely make a few of you angry.......so, in the past, some of you have taught me to just keep my mouth shut, as it makes life on this forum much easier. ;) (Well, until I feel gutsy again about sharing my opinions and experiences.)

One thing I should say is......beware of anything you hear and see when someone will take your money in order for you to form your own opinions about their conclusions......and, some of the more "questionable" conclusions are highly endorsed by the AAW herd of turners!... :rolleyes: (This is not to say that there aren't a few things that are appropriate and applicable.....just that there are many more inapplicable things, than those that are truly applicable!.....so how many of you have a drawer full of things that didn't work like you were told, or did things in a certain way, that didn't work out as well as you were led to believe?)

Just about everything you need to know about turning bowls, was known 100 years ago.....and, there is no secret ring that overcomes what you can learn by simply doing your "time in the saddle", while making appropriate observations and conclusions about what YOU experience......not what others want you to think and believe.

(sorry about the rant)
Well Odie I usually agree with a lot of what you post but maybe I need to point out the error of your ways.:)
For one thing there are many new things in the last "100 years" as in Electronic Variable Speed Control, powdered metals which sharpen better with CBN (that is proven fact), bowl gouges as we know them (50 years ago they were made from flat bar stock. Mmmm I know there are many other things new under the sun in the last 100 but I just don't have the time. Oh and one more thing name someone who has never bought something that did not work as they expected from the get go.
 

Emiliano Achaval

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I experienced the same thing others have. One simple swipe and this is the result. I'm going to try the WD 40 method and use the slick stick on my band saw unless someone can show me the error of my ways.View attachment 41862
Same problem here. Terrible build up. I won’t use it again.
 
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I have a Slick Stick, but never used it on my CBN wheels. I have had my CBN's for about 8 years now, and have cleaned them regularly with pb Blaster. I do use the slick stick on my bandsaw blades ... seems to help there. And I also use it to slick up tool rests after I dress them.
 

odie

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Well Odie I usually agree with a lot of what you post but maybe I need to point out the error of your ways.:)
For one thing there are many new things in the last "100 years" as in Electronic Variable Speed Control, powdered metals which sharpen better with CBN (that is proven fact), bowl gouges as we know them (50 years ago they were made from flat bar stock. Mmmm I know there are many other things new under the sun in the last 100 but I just don't have the time. Oh and one more thing name someone who has never bought something that did not work as they expected from the get go.

Hi Gerald......

We are certainly in disagreement about some things, and it's all in the results that really matter. The best of those old guys were very "individually" analytical about their observations, and that's one real difference between then and now. There is so much input from alternative sources, that it keeps one from forming an opinion that is completely separate from what experiencing some basic knowledge + time in the saddle, and especially without that "group think" input, can produce.

This is not to say that there aren't a few things that are appropriate and applicable.....just that there are many more inapplicable things, than those that are truly applicable!

I will have to agree with variable speed, but not that it's just more convenient by eliminating the need to change belts on pulleys. Another way to look at it, is that it does allow one to fine tune a spindle speed to the vibration characteristics of a particular mounted piece of wood. Fine tuning the speed may be an important aspect.....but it means nothing, however, if a number of other things are not included in the overall equation...

I will disagree about powdered metals and CBN wheels. That they sharpen better is a "proven fact" is an opinion I don't hold. I sharpen my tool edges very much like fine furniture makers did many years ago. You cannot get a sharper edge on a CBN+ powdered hybrid steels than those furniture makers did with honing methods using fine Arkansas stones to acquire an edge for their planes and carving tools. The difference, is an edge is quicker achieve, but not any better. Aside from that, knowing just when to sharpen is much more important, albeit much more difficult to comprehend when steels don't dull as quick.....and, that is an important point that very few of the "herd" will ever understand. One thing that is better, is an edge created with diamond hones is more convenient, but not better than an edge created with fine Arkansas stones. This distinction is neither here, nor there......mainly because nearly all current new turners never learn to hone like the old guys did......there is a gap there in the traditional learning experience, compared to the modern "enlightened" turner......but, I expect very few will grasp that difference without the knowledge that makes it possible.

When it comes to metal stock used to make turning tools, maybe I should have made the distinction of 75 or 50 years......to the time when M2 steel was first available. Although I did dabble in some hybrid steels at one time, I concluded that the rate of dulling is not the most important feature when comparing steels.....when we take into consideration those triggers that tell us to re-sharpen. I probably re-sharpen 2-3-4 times more often than most other turners, but the difference is my tools are sharper while in use, specifically because of the rate they dull, and the number of times I have to re-sharpen. (When I say "re-sharpen", I'm not speaking of trips back to the grinder, but re-honing.) I re-hone with 600gt diamond hones up to about 5, or more times, before I return to the grinder. The purpose of a grinder is to remove metal, that's all. The edge is acquired through honing.

You are correct, Gerald. I can't think of anyone who hasn't bought some "latest and greatest" tool, when it ultimately became a big disappointment.....including me!...but, you missed the point, Gerald. It's not about buying things that didn't work......it's all about concentrating your efforts on what YOU can do to improve your results, by your own initiative......and the "old boys" were not bombarded with all the gadgetry, and alternative thinking that is available these days.....That lack of outside input turns out to be an advantage, rather than the disadvantage that many of today's turners believe it to be.

I don't expect everyone to agree with me, although there might be one or two other turners who do......but, I do appreciate the opportunity to say what I believe to be universal truths that enable myself and a few other turners to produce the kind of unique on-lathe results most of us are hoping to achieve....

-----odie-----
 
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My dad purchased a brand new Craftsman wood lathe in the 1980's. I seem to remember he changed speeds by moving the drive belt on the pulley. He made most of his turning tools at the home made grinding using old files. He produced some impressive pieces, some that I still have today. While I'm attempting to turn a quality piece at my VFD lathe, I often think about that old man working with home made tools in a poorly lite shop with an under power lathe and only marvel at what he could fashion using the modern tools of today.
 
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Hi Gerald......

We are certainly in disagreement about some things, and it's all in the results that really matter. The best of those old guys were very "individually" analytical about their observations, and that's one real difference between then and now. There is so much input from alternative sources, that it keeps one from forming an opinion that is completely separate from what experiencing some basic knowledge + time in the saddle, and especially without that "group think" input, can produce.



I will have to agree with variable speed, but not that it's just more convenient by eliminating the need to change belts on pulleys. Another way to look at it, is that it does allow one to fine tune a spindle speed to the vibration characteristics of a particular mounted piece of wood. Fine tuning the speed may be an important aspect.....but it means nothing, however, if a number of other things are not included in the overall equation...

I will disagree about powdered metals and CBN wheels. That they sharpen better is a "proven fact" is an opinion I don't hold. I sharpen my tool edges very much like fine furniture makers did many years ago. You cannot get a sharper edge on a CBN+ powdered hybrid steels than those furniture makers did with honing methods using fine Arkansas stones to acquire an edge for their planes and carving tools. The difference, is an edge is quicker achieve, but not any better. Aside from that, knowing just when to sharpen is much more important, albeit much more difficult to comprehend when steels don't dull as quick.....and, that is an important point that very few of the "herd" will ever understand. One thing that is better, is an edge created with diamond hones is more convenient, but not better than an edge created with fine Arkansas stones. This distinction is neither here, nor there......mainly because nearly all current new turners never learn to hone like the old guys did......there is a gap there in the traditional learning experience, compared to the modern "enlightened" turner......but, I expect very few will grasp that difference without the knowledge that makes it possible.

When it comes to metal stock used to make turning tools, maybe I should have made the distinction of 75 or 50 years......to the time when M2 steel was first available. Although I did dabble in some hybrid steels at one time, I concluded that the rate of dulling is not the most important feature when comparing steels.....when we take into consideration those triggers that tell us to re-sharpen. I probably re-sharpen 2-3-4 times more often than most other turners, but the difference is my tools are sharper while in use, specifically because of the rate they dull, and the number of times I have to re-sharpen. (When I say "re-sharpen", I'm not speaking of trips back to the grinder, but re-honing.) I re-hone with 600gt diamond hones up to about 5, or more times, before I return to the grinder. The purpose of a grinder is to remove metal, that's all. The edge is acquired through honing.

You are correct, Gerald. I can't think of anyone who hasn't bought some "latest and greatest" tool, when it ultimately became a big disappointment.....including me!...but, you missed the point, Gerald. It's not about buying things that didn't work......it's all about concentrating your efforts on what YOU can do to improve your results, by your own initiative......and the "old boys" were not bombarded with all the gadgetry, and alternative thinking that is available these days.....That lack of outside input turns out to be an advantage, rather than the disadvantage that many of today's turners believe it to be.

I don't expect everyone to agree with me, although there might be one or two other turners who do......but, I do appreciate the opportunity to say what I believe to be universal truths that enable myself and a few other turners to produce the kind of unique on-lathe results most of us are hoping to achieve....

-----odie-----
I don’t get it. Your saying a cbn wheel will not get a sharper edge on a particle metal tool, then an old furniture maker can get with an old stone. But I see you say you use a 600 grit diamond hone to sharpen your tools which is a cbn wheel on a flat plate. What am I missing here. I love my 600 grit cbn wheel, saves me sitting there with my 600 grit diamond hone sharpening my tool when my setup will do in one second.
 

odie

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I don’t get it. Your saying a cbn wheel will not get a sharper edge on a particle metal tool, then an old furniture maker can get with an old stone. But I see you say you use a 600 grit diamond hone to sharpen your tools which is a cbn wheel on a flat plate. What am I missing here. I love my 600 grit cbn wheel, saves me sitting there with my 600 grit diamond hone sharpening my tool when my setup will do in one second.

Hello Glenn.......

The very edge of your gouge, while ground on the 600gt CBN wheel, is ground in one direction only, plus with gouges it's not cleaning up within the flute. While hand honing, the very edge is addressed from multiple directions, and the bur within the flute is leveled. It is a finer edge, capable of a finer cut by those who can take advantage of it......not everyone can.

I started out using Arkansas stones, and graduated to using stones meant for sharpening Dentist's tools.....still, many of them are specially made from fine Arkansas stones. For my purposes, the diamond hones can do just as good a job on gouges and flat skews. I use a cone shape diamond hone for the flute side of the gouges, and flat diamond hones for the bevel side of gouges. The furniture makers of old sharpened their hand plane blades on stones, and in the hands of the skilled, produced sharpness that rivaled anything you and I can get.

-----odie-----
 
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Emiliano Achaval

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View: https://youtu.be/2RsHB8v4htQ


^^^^^Added as FYI, because I was unaware of what "slick stick" is.

-----odie-----

Note: If I told you what I really think about the current trends concerning CBN wheels, hybrid steels, bowl turning methods, sanding products, gouge grinds, techniques......I'd surely make a few of you angry.......so, in the past, some of you have taught me to just keep my mouth shut, as it makes life on this forum much easier. ;) (Well, until I feel gutsy again about sharing my opinions and experiences.)

One thing I should say is......beware of anything you hear and see when someone will take your money in order for you to form your own opinions about their conclusions......and, some of the more "questionable" conclusions are highly endorsed by the AAW herd of turners!... :rolleyes: (This is not to say that there aren't a few things that are appropriate and applicable.....just that there are many more inapplicable things, than those that are truly applicable!.....so how many of you have a drawer full of things that didn't work like you were told, or did things in a certain way, that didn't work out as well as you were led to believe?)

Just about everything you need to know about turning bowls, was known 100 years ago.....and, there is no secret ring that overcomes what you can learn by simply doing your "time in the saddle", while making appropriate observations and conclusions about what YOU experience......not what others want you to think and believe.

(sorry about the rant)
I love to collect wood-turning books. I have to tell you Odie that just a few decades ago, some of the most famous turners in our illustrious history, had terrible technique. I was shocked to see some of my heroes of the past start sanding with 36 grit, 5 in high-speed grinders. Bowl turning has come a long way in the last 30 years, better tools, better technique, the development of the Irish grind, David Ellsworth adapting it to his style of turning, Stuart with his 40/40.
I can't believe I fell for the hype of the slick stick. It clogged one of my wheels really badly. By accident, I discovered that paint stripper works even better than the J Blaster. Left the wheel brand new looking.
I always say that it doesn't matter what tools you use, what grit you start with, all I care is the final product. But, you can't hide torn grain from me, all tool marks, LOL
 

odie

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what grit you start with,
Howdy Emiliano....

For me, what sanding grit I start with means everything! With bowl turning, you are alternating between end grain and long grain. Because of that, coarser grits take more surface off the long grain than it will with the end grain.....can't change that.....and you can't get multiple finely executed details when the fineness of your cut requires coarse sanding. If the object isn't to get those finely executed details, then I can agree that what sanding grit is required to start, isn't that big of a deal. Since sanding long grain takes off more surface as opposed to end grain is an accurate statement, then when it's desirable to maintain geometric integrity, the main object should be to eliminate the need for as much sanding as possible.....and, the ONLY way to do that, is get a finer cut that doesn't need as much sanding. If you can start sanding at 220gt with difficult dense, tough, dry hardwoods, then you are well on your way to discovering what's on the other side of the veil! :)

-----odie-----
 

Emiliano Achaval

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Howdy Emiliano....

For me, what sanding grit I start with means everything! With bowl turning, you are alternating between end grain and long grain. Because of that, coarser grits take more surface off the long grain than it will with the end grain.....can't change that.....and you can't get multiple finely executed details when the fineness of your cut requires coarse sanding. If the object isn't to get those finely executed details, then I can agree that what sanding grit is required to start, isn't that big of a deal. Since sanding long grain takes off more surface as opposed to end grain is an accurate statement, then when it's desirable to maintain geometric integrity, the main object should be to eliminate the need for as much sanding as possible.....and, the ONLY way to do that, is get a finer cut that doesn't need as much sanding. If you can start sanding at 220gt with difficult dense, tough, dry hardwoods, then you are well on your way to discovering what's on the other side of the veil! :)

-----odie-----
Odie, for me too. I would be out of a job if woodturning was easy. I was trying to say that in my opinion, you are wrong saying that woodturning bowls haven't changed in 100 years, or that all the answers were there 100 years ago. You are proving my point by you saying that the starting grit is very important to you. If you were an apprentice in a very famous artist woodturner studio in the late 50's, you would have been starting sanding with 36 grit. Now tell me things have not changed, LOL
I used to be a very black and white guy. Then, I become President of the Maui Woodturners. I could not bash guys from bringing square dishes full of torn grain to the show and tell. I started helping them become better. And, one day, I realized, while holding a very nice small calabash, it doesn't really matter how he got here, the final product is great. Some people maybe like sanding, I sure do not like it, so my goal is to sand less with every piece that I make, I'm with you on that!!! Your work is flawless, I wonder if it would have been that good 50 years ago... Or a 100...
 

odie

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Odie, for me too. I would be out of a job if woodturning was easy. I was trying to say that in my opinion, you are wrong saying that woodturning bowls haven't changed in 100 years, or that all the answers were there 100 years ago. You are proving my point by you saying that the starting grit is very important to you. If you were an apprentice in a very famous artist woodturner studio in the late 50's, you would have been starting sanding with 36 grit. Now tell me things have not changed, LOL
I used to be a very black and white guy. Then, I become President of the Maui Woodturners. I could not bash guys from bringing square dishes full of torn grain to the show and tell. I started helping them become better. And, one day, I realized, while holding a very nice small calabash, it doesn't really matter how he got here, the final product is great. Some people maybe like sanding, I sure do not like it, so my goal is to sand less with every piece that I make, I'm with you on that!!! Your work is flawless, I wonder if it would have been that good 50 years ago... Or a 100...

From your mind, I'm proving your point, but from my mind, you don't get the point, Emiliano. I say that with great respect.

The information was there and available 100 years ago, but your average turner couldn't, and didn't take advantage of it back then.....and, your average turner is less likely to free themselves of the bonds a thousand opinions will create, in our own times. Wood hasn't changed. The level of sharpness hasn't changed. The concept of a lathe hasn't changed. The only thing that has changed is the enormous volume of information. It has become an overbearing obstacle to someone who would normally have the ability to self adapt according to his individual experiences......

-----odie-----
 
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Bill Boehme

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experienced the same thing others have. One simple swipe and this is the result. I'm going to try the WD 40 method and use the slick stick on my band saw unless someone can show me the error of my ways.

I merged your thread with Glenn Lefley's thread on Slick Stick from early last year. I have a feeling that you intended to post in that thread but unintentionally started a new thread.

Another reason that I merged the threads is the forum rules prohibit starting a thread to promote (or bash) a product, but it's OK to mention a product in response to a question as long as it is relevant.

(sorry about the rant)

Tilting at windmills again?

I don't believe that you are sorry about the rant ... if you were, you wouldn't have posted it. I think that it's great that you want to share your woodturning journey. What's not great is denigrating others in the process.

Thread closed.
 
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