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Repair epoxy finish

Joined
Jan 14, 2020
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Yep, we're at that stage. Well, I so loath this piece that I decided to use my patented move if flinging the piece at hypersonic speeds from the lathe while parting off. Sadly it was not destroyed, it only suffered a blemish which must be repaired, ignored, or I will be forced to consciously dispose of the piece. I far prefer the passive aggressive resolution to a hated piece where I "accidentally" destroy it.
Anyway, here is the blemish. Looks like a bit of a detachment or something.
Thanks for taking a look. Here is a pic of the whole piece as well, just for the record.
R
 

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Joined
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No ceremony in my shop. I've been turning 35 years. I don't destroy many, but when it goes badly, it's in the trash. No need wasting time with a fix, especially with expensive resin. I've got lots more wood. I just bought a Solo Stove Firepit, so more fun watching them burn in the future.
 

john lucas

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One of our former AAW.presidents used to.shoot up pieces on purpose. My mind has gone blank on his name this morning because I talked to him at length on time and even helped.repair a tire on his wheel.chair. he used shotgun pellets as a.texturing tool. How fun is that. He wrote.an article on that for the journal so you can.look it up.
 
Joined
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I suspect you either had something on the wood (oil/grease) before the finish was applied.
For a first finish, I usually thin the epoxy with pure alcohol (not beer...that has other uses..)
Thinner epoxy penetrates into the wood better, for more color and better bonding.
Also try warming the piece before applying.
 
Joined
Apr 11, 2014
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Not sure what the overall objective is but it is a pretty log.
Lou Jacobs' comment above sounds reasonable, assuming the piece has a purpose. I would either turn-off or die-grind off and refinish with anything but epoxy.
If committed to epoxy, the lowest viscosity epoxy out there is Aero Marine 300/21 - I wipe it on the inside of my hollow-forms and have never had an issue.
 
Joined
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@John Tisdale do you use the Aero Marine 300/21 to water proof vases/vessels? This particular piece is a flower pot. Usually I just epoxy the inside. But I thought, maybe I'd try to epoxy the whole thing then sand down the gloss. Aside from being a brutally painful process, and the issues stated above, it seemed to work pretty well. :) Ok it was a disaster.
So my question is, about aero marine. Do you use it so the container can hold water? And if you do do you have a process that you like for doing it?
Thanks,
Raif
 
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Not sure I know what "water-proof" means and I would never make the claim - I simply don't know. And, for my work, it's a non-issue.
You are correct, from what I've read, that epoxy is one of the better barriers to water vapor meaning it's more effective than some materials, less than others. Because the 300/21 lends itself to wiping-on, it's great for the inside of a hollow-form which should be sealed from water vapor. While I doubt it's an absolute barrier, I do think it the best doable/practical choice.
 
Joined
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shakopee, mn
One of our former AAW.presidents used to.shoot up pieces on purpose. My mind has gone blank on his name this morning because I talked to him at length on time and even helped.repair a tire on his wheel.chair. he used shotgun pellets as a.texturing tool. How fun is that. He wrote.an article on that for the journal so you can.look it up.
john are you thinking of phil brennion (sp?) I tried his gun powder texture once- it was ok-kind of fun- but not anything i'd do again-
 
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