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Right angle drill for sanding...

R

Randy Heinemann

Joined
Jul 19, 2017
Messages
506
Likes
472
Location
Roscoe, Illinois
I've used a Harbor Freight electric right angle drill for sanding the inside of bowls for 4 (?) years and yesterday the case near the chuck cracked. Not sure why, but that isn't important. I want to replace it with something inexpensive, but reliable, since I don't really use it a lot. I don't have a large enough compressor for a die grinder (which would be a better choice for sanding carved areas). Since I have Dewalt 20V Max batteries for other cordless tools, I could go with that right angle drill but it's a $120+, depending on where you buy it. The current Harbor Freight corded model (Bauer) is $50, but I noticed that Home Depot sells a corded model for less than the Harbor Freight drill - Genesis. Anyone have experience with either of these? Again, I really don't use it much and only use it for sanding the inside of some of my bowls.

Any other suggestions besides the two I mentioned that would be about the same price and seems to be a good buy.
 
I use a JobMax corded and it has lasted over 6 years. I use the head that fits a hex drive. It is a bit heavy but does the job. The only thing I would change is to have the trigger lockable in different power settings. I use the roloc System from Woodturners Wonders which makes just a twist to change heads and grits.
 
I've been happy with the Woodturners Wonders model:

woodturnerswonders.com

Angle Drill

We searched high and low for a good quality 55-degree angle drill at a reasonable price. We all know there are some out there for over $125 that are decent, but that price is just too high. These drills, used for sanding, take a lot of abuse (because of sanding dust). The cheaper red ones we...
woodturnerswonders.com woodturnerswonders.com

The picture on the page looks like a newer design than the one I have, though.
 
I also have the WTW tool after my Sioux died. It's OK, but physically large and heavy (as was the Sioux). I wish someone would make one with the form factor of my little Grex air sander. I've seen quite powerful tiny electric motors, so it seems as though it should be possible (albeit probably expensive).
 
Gerald Lawrence said:
I use a JobMax corded and it has lasted over 6 years. I use the head that fits a hex drive. It is a bit heavy but does the job. The only thing I would change is to have the trigger lockable in different power settings. I use the roloc System from Woodturners Wonders which makes just a twist to change heads and grits.
Click to expand...
Doesn't look like the JobMax corded model is sold anymore. At least it doesn't show uo on a search online. Only the cordless model.
 
I used several of the Neiko brand close quarter drills (below - appears to me to be the same as the WTW drill), over 10 years or so. For the most part the failures were my fault - I didn't change brushes soon enough, and then could not find the right replacement brushes. A couple years ago I went to get another one and the price had went up to ~$50, so I got an HF Bauer instead. The Bauer seems a bit better made, time will tell, but I do like the Neiko form factor better.

The Neiko price has dropped, so it might be worth it, particularly if you don't use it much.


Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com
 
I had a Sioux 25+ years ago that I used for 5-10yrs until it gave up. Replaced it with a Neiko (which is still in use) and a few years ago bought another cheap branded one; both still work fine and I don’t have to mess with the keyed chuck to change from a 2” to 3” mandrel. I consider these to be a commodity and would get whatever is available easily and cheaply, think my last one was from Amazon.

Lately I’ve been using a small air driven RO from WoodturningWonders along with their roloc system and like it a lot. I seem to still use the angle drills for more aggressive grits but a few seconds each of the RO from 220 to 400 seems to finish up well
 
ROS - a little over a year ago I added an ROS for sanding. I still use a drill for the initial surface "flattening"/prep if needed, but the ROS has helped removal of sanding scratches vs a drill. Many use air ROS, but I don't want to use that much air. The small electric ROS's on the market were expensive. I found an electric automotive polisher for a reasonable $80 that has worked out well. It comes with a 3" pad that I replaced with a 2" pad, and found some drive extensions for using it in deeper bowls etc.

 
Randy Heinemann said:
Doesn't look like the JobMax corded model is sold anymore. At least it doesn't show uo on a search online. Only the cordless model.
Click to expand...
Check out ebay. Got my last one for a song but then have to buy the right head .
 
I have the Bauer for over a year. It has held up well I had two WTW drills burn up, first was replaced free and second money refunded. I like the Bauer. I still have my original HF drill about 8 to 10 years old still going strong. It is handy when I want a 90 degree drill.
 
Construction workers who use tools daily with plenty of abuse, depend on Milwaukee 55°, and I've come to depend on them for the kind of daily abuse I put them through, as well. I did have a Neiko for a while, but it's for those who only occasionally use them for sanding (plastic gears, and proprietary chuck) I've been watching eBay for years, and have a stash of about ten Milwaukee drills in near new condition....most I've paid around $50-70 for.

-o-
 
odie said:
I did have a Neiko for a while, but it's for those who only occasionally use them for sanding (plastic gears, and proprietary chuck)
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I have 4 or 5 Neiko’s, all have metal gears, and what do mean by “proprietary chuck”, maybe it uses a non std key?
 
Doug Freeman said:
I have 4 or 5 Neiko’s, all have metal gears, and what do mean by “proprietary chuck”, maybe it uses a non std key?
Click to expand...
Yes, non-standard key. I have four drills that are in use at any one time, and I like to have one key to all of them.....

My Neiko had plastic gears.....they did the right thing to upgrade the drive system.

-o-
 
ROS - a little over a year ago I added an ROS for sanding. I still use a drill for the initial surface "flattening"/prep if needed, but the ROS has helped removal of sanding scratches vs a drill. Many use air ROS, but I don't want to use that much air. The small electric ROS's on the market were expensive. I found an electric automotive polisher for a reasonable $80 that has worked out well. It comes with a 3" pad that I replaced with a 2" pad, and found some drive extensions for using it in deeper bowls etc.

Doug-
Does this have chuck like a drill so that we can use the rollock system?
 
I ended up buying the Neiko on Amazon because I could get it in a day, didn't have to go anywhere to get it, and it was the least expensive. Given my relatively low usage, I'd expect it to last me quite awhile. I could buy a Dewalt cordless (to work with my existing batteries) or another higher quality brand. However, I could replace the Neiko 3 or 4 times at the current price before I'd break even by buying a higher quality drill for $120 - $150. Interesting to hear what others use though.
 
I have had the Harbor freight one for at least fifteen years (it was the more expensive of the two they sold back then). I also have ones from WTW a Vince's Wooden Wonders, ones blue and one is red, other than that they are the same drill and I took them apart to make sure. They have all lasted a long time because I prefer to use DeWalt corded drills and use them the most :)
 
Wally Crawford said:
Doug-
Does this have chuck like a drill so that we can use the rollock system?
Click to expand...
No. It has a 5/16-24 female thread for the mandrel/pad to mount. If you have a roloc mandrel that is threaded, or can be threaded, McMaster-Carr has all kinds of threaded adapters (where I got mine) to mate things up if needed. For deeper bowls I needed a way to extend the mandrel.
 
I intended to post a photo of my current quartet of Milwaukee drills used for sanding......but, discovered I have none. Took this photo last night.

As I stated, I have about a dozen more in storage.....all lightly used, and some that are NIB.....all bought on eBay at bargain prices......if you are patient to pick out the good ones. Those that have been used extensively will show it, and nicks and scratches on the label are especially indicative to giving an idea of how much use it's had.

I am a heavy daily user of these drills, and they will last for a minimum of a decade before the bearings start giving out from the kind of abuse they get from me. Some last much longer. Most hobbyist turners can expect many decades of use out of these industrial grade drills. The cheaper "knock offs" just don't stand up to this abuse as well as the Milwaukee drills do.....

One word of advice, is to blow out the dust after every use, which includes the cooling vents, as well as around the trigger and chuck.

With my current stash of these Milwaukee 55° drills, I figure I'm good for the rest of my life! :)

-o-

IMG_1870.JPG
 
Doug Freeman said:
@odie curious what you would consider a “good deal” cost (total w/ship) on ebay today? I think you mean the 0375-1 version?
Click to expand...


Howdy Doug.....

I'd say a good price for a 0375-1+ Milwaukee drill that shows little use is around $75. I've paid as little as $50, and as much as $100 for one that was unused and still NIB. I will not buy one, unless I'm confident it hasn't been used much.....so scrutinize those photos well! I probably have enough to last myself the rest of my life, but I still keep my eye out for a good deal on one. I purchased one earlier this year.....but, the price was too good to pass up.....I believe the total on that one was about $60. (All prices I mention are total cost which includes the shipping.)

For those who might be interested in a Milwaukee (or Sioux, but those are rare)....have patience. There are plenty of heavily used drills that come up for sale frequently, but the occasional lightly used, or even NIB drills do come up from time to time....these older style (and better ergonomically, as well as fit better into the interior of my bowls, in my opinion) have been out of production for quite awhile. These older Milwaukee drills are still popular with those who are interested in having them.....so, the bidding often times gets beyond what I'd be willing to pay.....but, there are those that do come up without many bidders.....you have to be constantly on the lookout for the good deals to score when the deals do come up!

The first photo shows the ones that are worn out, and have been retired....there are six. I bought my first one, a Sioux around 1985, and these drills have been in constant use since that time.

The other photo show those that have been purchased, tested, and ready to be used when I need a replacement....there are more than 10.

-o-

IMG_1891.JPG IMG_1892.JPG
 
The brushes and bearings are what wear out first. I did trash a couple of the plastic cases.... I do tend to abuse my tools. It is still cheaper to get the old ones rebuilt than it is to buy a new one. My tool repair guy told me to keep my old DeWalt 18 volt cordless drill. The newer 20 volt ones, it they break down, it costs more to repair them than it does to buy a new one...

robo hippy
 
@odie - in this thread from 6 months ago, you talked about how much sanding you do and how much daily abuse you put sanders through and then this week you say aggressive sanding is "not acceptable... " Did you have an epiphany or make a technical change to how you turn that changed your approach or thought process? I've always admired those who learn to minimize sanding. Because of the nature of what I turn, My work sometimes requires starting with 36 grit!

POST 14 ABOVE: Construction workers who use tools daily with plenty of abuse, depend on Milwaukee 55°, and I've come to depend on them for the kind of daily abuse I put them through, as well.

POST 21 ABOVE: I am a heavy daily user of these drills, and they will last for a minimum of a decade before the bearings start giving out from the kind of abuse they get from me.

FROM THE OTHER RECENT THREAD: For those who embellish their turnings, this (aggressive sanding) may be perfectly acceptable because they rely on sanding to eliminate what they consider inconsequential flaws......but, for my kind of turning, where the subliminal attraction relies on perfect geometry to gain the desired aesthetic appeal, it's not acceptable. In order to maintain the perfect geometry, then the turning skills, along with the right tools and techniques are essential to have a tooled surface in preparation for a very minimal amount of sanding.
 
John Ames said:
@odie - in this thread from 6 months ago, you talked about how much sanding you do and how much daily abuse you put sanders through and then this week you say aggressive sanding is "not acceptable... " Did you have an epiphany or make a technical change to how you turn that changed your approach or thought process? I've always admired those who learn to minimize sanding. Because of the nature of what I turn, My work sometimes requires starting with 36 grit!

POST 14 ABOVE: Construction workers who use tools daily with plenty of abuse, depend on Milwaukee 55°, and I've come to depend on them for the kind of daily abuse I put them through, as well.

POST 21 ABOVE: I am a heavy daily user of these drills, and they will last for a minimum of a decade before the bearings start giving out from the kind of abuse they get from me.

FROM THE OTHER RECENT THREAD: For those who embellish their turnings, this (aggressive sanding) may be perfectly acceptable because they rely on sanding to eliminate what they consider inconsequential flaws......but, for my kind of turning, where the subliminal attraction relies on perfect geometry to gain the desired aesthetic appeal, it's not acceptable. In order to maintain the perfect geometry, then the turning skills, along with the right tools and techniques are essential to have a tooled surface in preparation for a very minimal amount of sanding.
Click to expand...

Howdy John.....

I think there may be something you've misunderstood about what I've previously said here......I'll try to clear it up, but if you have any more questions for me, don't hesitate.

For quite a long time now, I have not done any aggressive sanding on the exteriors of my bowls, but I still use power sanding on the interiors. All sanding on exteriors is done by hand starting at nothing coarser than 180gt, and often finer grits than that. It's important to do as little sanding as possible on my exteriors because of the details I wish to incorporate into my design shapes. If I were to aggressively sand exteriors, I'd be losing geometric integrity, and doing so is what destroys the ability to have the details my bowls have. The one and only way to do this, is to develop the tool skills necessary to eliminate the need for any aggressive sanding.

Depending on how well I've been able to form the curvature of the interior, I power sand using my Milwaukee drills to true it up. The starting grit here is usually 60, 80, or 100gt, depending on the tooled surface preparation.

Maybe I wasn't as clear about this as well as I could have been, but my procedures haven't changed for at least a decade, or more.

Edited to add that when I say I all exterior bowl sanding is done "by hand", it means sheet sandpaper strips are hand-held to the bowl while it spins on the lathe at a low 300+/- rpm. Normally, this is done with progressively finer grits up to 600gt max. At this point, there sometimes is (but not always) some random orbit sanding at 600gt, and occasionally up to as high as 1500gt, while the bowl is stationary. Everything about sanding is learned from experience, and it's a judgement call based on that experience.

-o-
 
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@John Ames.... This note is to call to your attention that there is some additional information posted to the above post #29 you might be interested in. I have highlighted the additional information in bold type for your convenience.

-o-
 
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The previous model Genesis lasted for years, unfortunately died while US was out of stock. Finally got a replacement a few months ago and like both of them.
 
odie said:
The starting grit here is usually 60, 80, or 100gt, depending on the tooled surface preparation.
Click to expand...
why are you able to get the exterior so much cleaner that you can start at 180 but not the interior equally smooth? Is that pretty common?
 
Alan Weinberg said:
why are you able to get the exterior so much cleaner that you can start at 180 but not the interior equally smooth? Is that pretty common?
Click to expand...

Hi Alan.....

I suppose it's possible to develop techniques to do the interior with such precision, but there is no point to do so, since the whole point on the exterior is to support the details with perfect geometry. There is no such need for the interior to have this perfect geometry, so the entire process of doing the interior is so much faster and easier, if I can do it with power sanding, starting at much coarser grits.

Is this common, you ask......I'm not aware of anyone who pursues woodturning in exactly the same manner that I do, so I would guess it is not common........

-o-
 
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I hesitate to disagree with @odie on any technical matters. I haven’t been blessed to physically experience his work, but the pics show artistry and craftsmanship. With that said - while my bowl interior sanding usually needs to start a grit (sometimes two) heavier than exterior, it’s very seldom the thought of 60grit even crosses my mind and I certainly try not to be using my sandpaper for shaping. I do believe that a smooth interior curve (with good geometry) is essential, and suspect @odie agrees with this albeit his previous comment might suggest otherwise.

My two cents,
Ron
 
Ron Solfest said:
I hesitate to disagree with @odie on any technical matters. I haven’t been blessed to physically experience his work, but the pics show artistry and craftsmanship. With that said - while my bowl interior sanding usually needs to start a grit (sometimes two) heavier than exterior, it’s very seldom the thought of 60grit even crosses my mind and I certainly try not to be using my sandpaper for shaping. I do believe that a smooth interior curve (with good geometry) is essential, and suspect @odie agrees with this albeit his previous comment might suggest otherwise.

My two cents,
Ron
Click to expand...

It's A-OK to disagree with me, Ron.....thanks for doing so, because it does inspire thought, and that's why most of us here are participating in threads where there is opposing/conflicting input.....and, I do believe we are in disagreement on some elements of this discussion.

I do agree that if "shaping" is the point of using coarse grits for interiors, then an improvement in some aspect of the tooled part of interior surface is indicated. I do sometimes use 60gt for gaining a completely smooth transitioning curvature for interiors of bowls. It's possible that some of the very dense, hard and otherwise difficult to turn woods I use, along with the inward slanted walls and undercut rims, do play into the overall conditions that make up the deciding factors for using these aggressive sanding methods, as well.

-o-
 
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I, as a new turner, love the dialogue and various opinions; obviously there are many ways to do things and I want to learn the options so I can figure out what works for me. So thanks to all for the interesting discussion and civility.
 
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