Safe Covers for Sharp Tools and Other Tips for Turning School (s)?

[Aaron Harris]

Good afternoon all-My awesome 91 year old (and still turning!) mentor Martin Isetts gave me an old (meaning sturdy) zippered travel bag that seems like it was tailor-made for turning tools, as he knows I am going to Ellsworth's 3-day class later this summer. But how to tip razor-sharp skews, point tools, etc. so they won't tear up the bag (or maybe hurt someone walking near). As this will literally be my 1st class (unless you count the Woodcraft Beginning Turner class and some shop time in other turner/mentors' shops), how do you guys who travel constantly with your tools deal with this? Maybe it's a stupid question that's obvious to everyone but me, but I'm not thinking of good solutions yet-tennis balls or rubber balls? Rubber crutch tips? That won't work, right?

As a straight-razor guy, I have to have razor-sharp tools, or the universe is out of whack. Thanks for a good solution to this issue. And please, as the title suggests, please add tips for coming prepared to turning school-I know all teachers appreciate that, and it buys a student lots of credibility by letting them know you're serious. Part of my coming prepared will require some of my favorite tools and box of honing supplies.

I really don't recall a thread on these issues unless I missed it. I think some good tips in general would really help others "going to school" (or teaching it!). Thanks-Aaron

 

[hockenbery]

Masking tape works well and a few wraps will protect the tips and the carrier.

I use some 1/2” micro irrigation tubing too. I can force my parting tool into one.
Used with masking tape I use them over pyramid tools.

I’m using a canvas tool roll that is 25+ years old. It’s been on lots of air plane rides.
One cut in it from an unprotected tool packed up by an unhelpful helper and a slightly torn sleeve.


Bag with tools usually gets opened.
I put a note on the roll that says contains sharp tools

 

[hockenbery]

Have fun. Don’t over think it. Relax and absorb….

QUOTE="Aaron Harris, post: 219103, member: 41439"]
please add tips for coming prepared to turning school-I know all teachers appreciate that, and it buys a student lots of credibility by letting them know you're serious.
[/QUOTE]

1. A good attitude check

2. Treasures or techniques. One class I did at Campbell I had two guys who turned for 1 week every summer at Campbell. I made sure they left with a couple pieces they could display with pride. In general I prefer students who might not finish anything but concentrate on the techniques.

3. Bring a couple pieces you want critiques on.

4. If you can tell the instructor 1 or 2 things you want out of the class that helps the instructor.

 

[Tom Gall]

I use "protection" every time I turn ... don't travel much with tools anymore. Tried several different methods over the years.
Go to HD or Lowe's and buy a foot or two of all the different sizes of tubing and slip over the tool shaft. Most of my tube covers run the full length of the tool plus and inch or so. (i.e. - 1/2" gouge use 5/8 or 3/4 ID tubing). The tubing has a memory curve as it comes off the spool and provides enough friction to remain in place. For a tight fitting tube use short lengths (3-4") and just slide over the tool tip. For some of the larger tools pipe insulation can work well - but doesn't offer as much protection.

 

[Roger Wiegand]

Masking tape has worked well for me, easier to get off than duct tape. Gaffer's tape might be ideal, but I've only recently discovered how useful the stuff is, so don't have direct experience.

 

[john lucas]

I useheat shrink tubing. I get tubing larger than my tool. I cut a wooden piece that will be the same size as my tool to keep it from cutting the tubing. Then I put the tubing over the tool and wood. Heat it up until it forms itself around the tool. Then I write on the tubing with a silver marker what tool is is.

 

[Ron Solfest]

I use plastic tubing that I had laying around (you can buy it by the foot at a hardware store). I think most of the pieces are ~3/4” ID, some maybe 1” or 1 1/4”. I slip them on the tools up to the ferrule and cut them off about an inch or so longer than the tip. Just transported a set like this to my son riding a few thousand miles in the 5th wheel without any issues.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

I use PVC . You can heat it to form to the tool and leave on the tool to cool ( it will go back to original shape if you don't). Use a slightly smaller size on gouges and when the PVC is heated and soft push the tool in and let cool, you have a form fitted sleeve. For skew and parting tools -heat the PVC and insert tool and flatten in a vice or clamp, or between two pieces of wood. This was published in American Woodturner. Also the Pipe insulation is useful to keep handles from getting banged up.

 

[Brian Deakin]

I went to a local bicycle shop and asked for an old innertube from a mountain cycle
I cut this into appopriate lengths then used superglue to seal one end then reiforcred the sealed end with tape
Regular innertube can be used for narrow tools

 

[R Henrickson]

When I'm driving, I usually just put a bit of tape over the cutting edge. If the tool can be removed from the handle, take it out and reverse it.

 

[robo hippy]

I haven't traveled to a demo by plane. I always drive. I do tend to carry too much stuff..... Be prepared! In the car, the tools are in a plywood box, and stacked on each other so the cutting edges are not touching, which isn't too difficult. When at a demo, I have my tools on one of those wheeled wire racks, and I made a 2 foot by 6 foot long table top which has at least a 2 inch high edge around it so the pointy ends are not sticking out where some one can walk by and get cut. Not sure how I would do it if I was flying. Heavy canvas roll, and sections of garden hose was one solution I heard of. Not sure if the plastic dip stuff for tool handles would work or not.

robo hippy

 

[Bill Boehme]

I use 3M Coban or equivalent only because I have accumulated a large supply.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I make them out of various sized automotive reinforced rubber hose or clear plastic tubing, sized to grip the tool some, with a smaller, short piece of hose hot glued in one end as a stop. Usually about 2” insertion of the tool. Wide flat tools like Skews and scrapers get painters tape on the edge. The molded pvc is a good concept, but would slip off in my carry bag. I may make some and use a bit of tape to hold them on.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

I make them out of various sized automotive reinforced rubber hose or clear plastic tubing, sized to grip the tool some, with a smaller, short piece of hose hot glued in one end as a stop. Usually about 2” insertion of the tool. Wide flat tools like Skews and scrapers get painters tape on the edge. The molded pvc is a good concept, but would slip off in my carry bag. I may make some and use a bit of tape to hold them on.

Actually since the PVC cools in the vise it is a glove fit and takes a bit of pull to remove. Sometime when it cools has to be slightly reheated to remove. I guess this evolves down to what material we all have easy access to that will get it done.

 

[John Grace]

I cut the 'fingers' off of old gloves and hold them on with a rubber band.

 

[Neil McWilliams]

You can round some spindle stock to 1” diameter or so and bore an appropriate sized hole 2” deep. Plan for 3” total length. Turn each piece to a distinctive shape that you will thereafter use with a particular tool. Since these pieces are end grain, stuffing some wood chips into the fitting for your skews and parting tools will lessen the chance of splitting the fitting should you drop it point downward.

 

[Tom Gall]

I use plastic tubing that I had laying around (you can buy it by the foot at a hardware store). I think most of the pieces are ~3/4” ID, some maybe 1” or 1 1/4”. I slip them on the tools up to the ferrule and cut them off about an inch or so longer than the tip. Just transported a set like this to my son riding a few thousand miles in the 5th wheel without any issues.

I agree, Ron ... see post #4 above.
Easy to use - slide on / slide off. I use them all the time when changing tools. Can't tell you how many times a tool fell off the lathe bed or banged into other tools while turning. For some reason when my tool falls it always lands on the pointy end!

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

For gouges I just turn them around and put the cutting edge in the handle and tighten the screws. For tools too big I cover the end with short pieces of pool noodle.