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sanding disks

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Mar 20, 2006
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Location
ft worth texas
I have a right angle drill and was wondering where you all get your disks from

I have looked at Vinces wood works and his are pretty good. Are there any other suppliers that some of you use?
Thanks, Byron
 
Of the ones I have used, I still prefer Vinces. Longest lasting and best price. Other places to try, Klingspoor, The Sanding Glove, Woodchuckers, and Craft Supplies. I just got some of the green ceramic discs, and like them. They last almost as long as Vinces, but are more pricy. I haven't tried the purple ceramic discs from 3M yet, but Mike Mahoney says they are the best. I also tried the abranet ones (woven, look like screens) that I got through Craft Supplies, and they seem very aggressive, especially at first, and last a fairly long time. I had trouble keeping the 80 grit disc on the pads. When they started to feel dull, I used the eraser stick, which helped some. Funny thing to me is that I tried some dull ones for hand sanding and they still seemed to cut very well. I have some of the Astra Dot ones on order from Woodchucker to try them out and see what they are like. One thing also that I like about Vinces is that the discs are cut over sized (3 3/8, and 2 3/8 inch). You don't have to have the disc perfectly centered on the pad for it to cover the whole pad. I don't know why all the disc makers don't do this. There are some companies that will sell you sheet stock and you can punch or cut out your own discs.
robo hippy
 
I've been using the "Power Lock" discs since the 1980's, and have had great success with them. The newer "flex edge" discs are great for certain applications when needing to go around corners. They work like they should, and aren't as expensive as some of the other discs.

otis of cologne

click:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Abrasives___Power_Lock?Args=






.
 
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I've tried quite a few of the hook and loops and like Vince's the best along with Klingspor's gold for hand sanding but I also frequently use Vince's discs for hand sanding as well. The 3M ceramic are really good but the grit selection is very limited and they are PSA only. 3M last the longest and then Vince's come in a very close second. Just my experience.
 
If you don't mind making your own try Industrial Abrasives. they sell 1 metereX1 yard hook and loop for about $15. You can punch out disks or grind off an old hole saw and use it on a drill press to make your own. The ryno grip disks material wears just about as long as Vinces'.
 
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Steve,

Your site says that the disks clean easy, would a person just use a big easer?
 
My opinion: Pay no premium and use it like someone else is paying for it (a paraphrase of what I heard Mike Mahoney say in a seminar).

Sandpaper is probably the cheapest component in the woodturners portfolio of tools. Trying to extend the run of a piece of sandpaper or clean it is a waste of time. Get a new piece of sandpaper when the one you are using clogs up, loses its effectiveness, etc.

Sanding is the final step of machining a piece and has a dramatic impact on the final appearance of the piece. It's not the time to cut corners or save a few cents. If you do a poor job of sanding the piece, it will be highlighted/magnified when the finish is applied.

So, buy the good stuff (not the premium stuff) and change it often. - John
 
I hear what you are saying JJ.

There are products like Micro Mesh that can be clean and there are products like Klingspor Gold that shouldn't be cleaned.

Then I look at my big belt sander, using a big easer lets me get a little more life out of each belt.
 
There are many choices. After Klingspor's, Craft Supply green disk I went to Vince's a couple of years ago. Recently I ordered from Steve Worcester and plan to order more of his. I think Vinces last a long time and I still use them but for me the lower grits on Steves cut somewhat better. Personally the oversize gets in my way especially on a foot or near a tenon. Try'm all.
 
Dude,

I HAVE (and use) your disks. I was just passing your ref on to Byron so some wienie didn't get out of joint over a moderator tooting his own on the AAW site :D :D

Sorry, dude to the wrong dude. But I appreciate the endorsement
 
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I hear what you are saying JJ.

There are products like Micro Mesh that can be clean and there are products like Klingspor Gold that shouldn't be cleaned.

Then I look at my big belt sander, using a big easer lets me get a little more life out of each belt.

Why shouldn't the Gold be cleaned? They use the same process for their product as everyone else, it is a stearate coating and for any of them, the combo of a stearate coating and then using "the big eraser" they get cleaned. The only thing the eraser does is help to remove the embedded sawdust from between the grit. It isn't abrasive (enough) to remove stearate or the grit particles itself. But then again, it won't sharpen a dull paper either.

This process does not work as well with a finer grit, like a micro mesh, but does still work. Although some people use a copper or steel brush, because it will impart some of the metal into the sandpaper, it would not be my recommendation as those particles will then get embedded into the wood.
 
The rubber eraser sticks. They will do a lot, and work better on some discs than others. I know that there is some sort of a solution that is used on some of the big belt sanders, but don't know what it is. Spray on, and rinse off.
robo hippy
 
Geesh! I can't win! :confused:
So, back to my original question, how do you recommend cleaning your disks?

(You know we love you man!) I did talked in generalities about it, but specifically, I have a bench mount belt cleaner, that is a crepe pad mounted to a board, and I mounted it on a plywood plate. I inset two rare earth magnets to it so that it can sit securely on the tailstock. When I am sanding, I sand for a bit on the wood, then slow down a little and sand a bit on the crepe block. I usually stop and flick away any rubber from the disk with my hand, then go back to sanding.

The other item on there is a piece of velcro that I can hold all the remotes to.
 

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Love that remote station Steve! Do you get ESPN on that thing?
 
cleaning

Geesh! I can't win! :confused:


So, back to my original question, how do you recommend cleaning your disks?

I have the 8 inch stick nailed to my portable table on wheels where I keep the gouges, calipers etc. Mounted it on an angle. Just turn my body 90 degrees and zap it for 2-3 seconds. Will even take off min oil or other finish if it hasn't dried. Now cyan super glue (CA) is a different story!!!, Gretch
 
Steve,

Your site says that the disks clean easy, would a person just use a big easer?

Hi Ron,

I use Steve's sanding discs and, yes, they are easy to clean. There was a recent thread about this and I mentioned how I cut the cleaning eraser (big rectangle rubber cleaner) on my bandsaw, glued it to a piece of wood that's nailed to the wall and as I'm sanding, I swipe the eraser to clean the disc often. The discs last a long time and are a good quality.

Buy 'em, you'll like 'em!

Ruth
 
Hi Ron

Geesh! I can't win! :confused:


So, back to my original question, how do you recommend cleaning your disks?

I recommend cleaning with compressed air first and using the rubber eraser second. If any one would like to try my Blue Film discs just sent me an email at Woodnwonders@excite.com and I will be happy to send you some samples . Vince
 
Some one commented about how agressive one disc was (I think the discs from Steve). I think they all are pretty agressive when fresh. The biggest difference that I have noted thus far is how long they keep that agressive cut. I use two things to tell me when it is time to get a fresh disc. One is to feel a freshly cleaned disc with my fingers. You can tell easily when a disc is dull because it will feel kind of slick. If I am not sure, I compare to a fresh disc. The other thing I use to judge is how much dust is coming off the bowl. I have noticed that even though they may feel a little dull, some discs will continue to cut very well. In particular, the green ceramic discs, and the discs from Vince. The Abranet discs (micro mesh) are a close second. The red aluminum oxide discs, and most of the others, if they feel at all dull, they they are dull.

I haven't tried blowing off discs with the air hose yet. Will have to give it a go. I know when the wood is a bit wet, the air hose doesn't help much, but then again, it takes more effort with the eraser stick.

robo hippy
 
I recommend cleaning with compressed air first and using the rubber eraser second. If any one would like to try my Blue Film discs just sent me an email at Woodnwonders@excite.com and I will be happy to send you some samples . Vince


This is what I do, too.....

Air hose first......does the trick 90% of the time.

Rubber eraser 2nd.

Throw the damxed thing away!



otis of cologne
 
I haven't tried blowing off discs with the air hose yet. Will have to give it a go. I know when the wood is a bit wet, the air hose doesn't help much, but then again, it takes more effort with the eraser stick.

robo hippy

Hey robo hippy.......You sand wet bowls?

otis of cologne
 
If you don't mind making your own try Industrial Abrasives. they sell 1 metereX1 yard hook and loop for about $15. You can punch out disks or grind off an old hole saw and use it on a drill press to make your own. The ryno grip disks material wears just about as long as Vinces'.

Industrial Abrasives also sells precut 2" and 3" disks that work very well. Available in 60 to 600 grit . 2" 25 for $5 and 3" 25 for $7.
 
Odie,
The only time I sand wet bowls or hollow forms is if there is a lot of figure in them. When they dry, the figure will turn very 3D and is impossible to sand out without ruining the piece. This is also so on burl pieces. These are also 'art' pieces, and not utility pieces.
robo hippy
 
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